Portionate Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Hi. I just rejoined the 505 club over the weekend after regrettably ditching my '87 STI a few years ago for a gas can on wheels. So I finally picked up a '82 505S Turbo Diesel in Chicago on Saturday and drove it back to Cincinnati. It was doing fine until I was about half way home and decided to test out the cruise control just for curiosity's sake. Well, when I hit the button to set the speed it just began accelerating, not maintaining speed like it should have. Now it's stuck. When it's put in neutral it revs loudly and pours smoke out the exhaust while at low speed. It's not on full but the only time it isn't heading for top speed is when I'm going up a steep gradient. Luckily I was able to nurse it all the way home, with my foot on the brake nearly the entire time. So... Anyone have any ideas? I thought to unhook the battery and drain the charge in the car in an effort to reset the electrical system but the battery connectors are more or less locked so I couldn't disconnect the thing even after getting the nuts off (I'm no mechanic). The guy who sold it to me also sent along the owner's manual and a Haynes guide (For petrol 505's, not really that helpful) so I was able to find all the crucial pieces to the cruise on the wiring diagram. Unfortunately I can't locate them in the car (I'm really not a mechanic). Also, for some reason the fuse diagram in the manual doesn't match my model so it's not clear at all which one might be for the cruise. I had also thought to remove the cc fuse to try and disable the system to see if that worked. So I'm pretty limited by my lack of skills obviously. Anyone have any advice? Am I completely off base? Thanks Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 If it stays revved up even after shutting off and restarting the car I would bet that this is not an electrical fault. Just about everything else that goes wrong with a Peugeot is, but I think not this. I'm guessing that the linkage is mechanically stuck. The cruse control linkage is the lower of the linkages attached to the injector pump on the drivers side of the engine, If it's an automatic there are three linkages, top to bottom, kickdown throttle and cruse control. If it's a 5sp there are two (no kickdown). Try either disconnecting that linkage or manually pushing it back and forth and see if that frees it up. The ECU for the cruse control is inside the panel by the drivers left knee. When you remove that panel below the steering column, the controller is mounted to the panel. I think I recall that all the wires are on a single connector so if you unplug that you will disable the control. Check that it's not mechanically stuck first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Portionate Posted July 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 Nice. Thank you. I actually got the idea about the linkage yesterday from reading another thread on here but haven't had time to check it out so I forgot. I'm going to explore that after work tonight. I actually did disconnect and reconnect the wires for the cruise behind the panel underneath the steering wheel. No effect. I didn't dig far enough to hit the ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted July 8, 2013 Report Share Posted July 8, 2013 I actually did disconnect and reconnect the wires for the cruise behind the panel underneath the steering wheel. No effect. I didn't dig far enough to hit the ECU. As I said I would have been surprised if that worked, but if you get to the point of believing that it is electronic rather than mechanical, try leaving the wires to the cruse control ECU disconnected rather than trying to force a reboot with a disconnect and reconnect. If the normal idle doesn't return then you know the ECU is not part of the problem, and it is unlikely that any of the wiring is at fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 Awesome post Dave! I'd guess mechanical fault as well with the cruise linkage, or just some interference with the IP linkage in general, but it should be obvious when you look at it. Making sure the IP linkage is returning to it's idle position is what you're looking for - and seeing if anything is preventing it from returning. Pics of the new car once you get it sorted would be great too! Nice to see another diesel in the mix! Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Portionate Posted July 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Great news. A little shifting of the linkage loosened it up and now it's running seemingly fine. I drove it down the street to get some fuel yesterday but not much else as I just got it insured today and still haven't registered it. I still disconnected the cruise wires again just to prevent any future mishaps. Big ups and major thanks, Dave. My only other resource to get this resolved was a mechanic friend of mine and he took one look at it and said.... welp, I've never seen this (a Peugeot) before and I don't know what to do. I'm going to give my guy a nice scrub before I throw some pics up around here, but in the meantime, here's my old STI that I miss dearly: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 I think if I was going to disconnect something to prevent future mishaps, I'd disconnect the linkage at the injector pump, rather than the wires. It's easier to get at to disconnect and reconnect and since that's what got stuck the first time, that's what you want to keep from getting stuck in the future. I suspect if you get it so everything is freed up there, it shouldn't happen again, but of course you want to be careful when and where you try it next just in case. Glad you got it straightened out and I forgot to welcome you. Whatever guidance you or your mechanic friend need with your car, someone here probably knows the answer. I haven't got a fraction of the mechanical experience that some others here have, but I've been driving and maintaining Peugeots for about 40 years, so I've seen a lot of the things that can go wrong, If you want to fix the next 10 things that will go wrong with your car before they happen, there are 4 ground blocks at the four corners of the car, two in the engine compartment near the back side of the headlights and two in the side panels of the trunk. Get some contact cleaner and a toothbrush and pull each of those wires and clean them up. Start with the right front and then the right rear as those are the source of more trouble than the other two. Those 4 points are the root of most evil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 After sleeping on it, I wonder if you do have an issue with the ECU as well as the sticky linkage. If it just failed to disengage when shut off, that is the linkage, but the fact that it accelerated beyond the speed you were going when you set it, is not the linkage. In any case disconnecting the linkage will still keep you from trouble even with the wiring connected. The cruse control on my blue car has always (as far back as I can remember) accelerated 5mph above the speed I was traveling when I set it but then it acts normally. The CC on the grey car worked properly before it's engine was removed so I'm going to take the ECU from that, and put it in the blue car, and I expect that will cure my problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Portionate Posted July 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Thanks for all the info. I'm just going to disable the cruise regardless. I've never been a big fan or user of it so best to just put it out of my mind. The cruise in my STI worked but it was very jerky so I never used it. Good call on cleaning those grounds. I'll put those on the list of things to do. I wish I would've known about that before. My STI always had some kind of electrical issue. Thanks again for the wisdom. I can never have too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 The cruise is a bit jerky for sure, but I really love these cars as highway trip cars, and having a functioning cruise system is very high on my list of things to do on my 86 TD wagon. Finding functioning components off a TD will be tough - so if either of you have left overs let me know! Electrical issues: Peugeot used crappy unsealed electrical connections, so first step is to clean and tighten all the grounding trees and the connections, second would be to clean as many of the actual connectors as possible, and use dielectric grease in them to keep them in good shape. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 OK but If you are going to disable the CC, I would still disconnect it at the linkage rater than, or in addition to, the wiring. Since you have had that stick in the past, there is no point in running the risk that it might stick again even without the CC engaged. I don't use the CC much either but on a a long straight interstate it's sometimes nice to have. It wouldn't bother me if I didn't have it, but since I do, I try to keep it working. There are, of course, many things with much higher priority. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 The cruise is a bit jerky for sure, but I really love these cars as highway trip cars, and having a functioning cruise system is very high on my list of things to do on my 86 TD wagon. Finding functioning components off a TD will be tough - so if either of you have left overs let me know! If the ECU in the grey car works better than the one in my Blue car then either of you is welcome to the one out of the Blue car. There are a couple of adjustment pots on them and there are instructions in the electrical manual for starting settings when replacing them, but I've never been able to find any information on their actual function and how to refine those adjustments. I wouldn't be surprised if my problem with accelerating 5 MPH from the speed at which I set it could be corrected by an adjustment there, but it's never made it to the top of my list to fiddle with, and if the other ECU is a plug in fix I'll just go with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Portionate Posted July 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 OK but If you are going to disable the CC, I would still disconnect it at the linkage rater than, or in addition to, the wiring. Since you have had that stick in the past, there is no point in running the risk that it might stick again even without the CC engaged.I don't use the CC much either but on a a long straight interstate it's sometimes nice to have. It wouldn't bother me if I didn't have it, but since I do, I try to keep it working. There are, of course, many things with much higher priority. I hear you. I think I'm just apprehensive to mess with anything under the hood due to my novice mechanic skills. Hopefully it doesn't stick again but at least now I know how to fix it. Disconnecting the linkage, I'm worried I might "fix" something that will consequently need more fixing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.