Diesel filter options / upgrades

[tulaweb]

I just need to source the filter head filter canister (missed the one on Peugeot-L) and I'll swap it in when I replace the injectors with the rebuilt ones.

Rabin

Opps sorry. I think that was me that beat you to it

The wires on my water sensor are broken off flush and I need to put an o ring and several washers on the bottom of the center bolt to get it to seal.

I thought you were looking for one with the coolant going thought the lower part.

[Bean]

No worries Dave - I've been chatting with Stuart about his replacement set up and I think I may do something similar. There are some aftermarket set ups that look very similar to the factory set up that use spin on filters, so I'll try to source something similar locally. I may even set up a dual filter set up so that I can filter down under 5 µm as I've read VE pumps like fuel CLEAN.

Some of them even have water separators and water sensors that could be wired into the stock wiring - but not sure I need the water sensor. Easy enough to see it in the container if I can find one I like and that fits.

I spoke to a local diesel shop and they told me the heated filter heads aren't needed if I don't plan on running in the winter. My car will be strictly summer only, and likely diesel only (no WVO plans right now) so I'm going to take the opportunity to hopefully clean up the coolant line routing. Stuart used an electrically heated filter head (200W) on his set up - so that might be an option as well so that I can run the car in colder weather if needed.

Rabin

[tulaweb]

I spoke to a local diesel shop and they told me the heated filter heads aren't needed if I don't plan on running in the winter. My car will be strictly summer only, and likely diesel only (no WVO plans right now) so I'm going to take the opportunity to hopefully clean up the coolant line routing. Stuart used an electrically heated filter head (200W) on his set up - so that might be an option as well so that I can run the car in colder weather if needed.

I have a block heater so when its real cold I usually start with my coolant somewhat warmed up. That sure does help. Of course I have it running much better now than in recent years so we'll see how this winter goes.

Some of them even have water separators and water sensors that could be wired into the stock wiring - but not sure I need the water sensor. Easy enough to see it in the container if I can find one I like and that fits.

In all the years I had the water sensor presumably working I don't recall that it's sensed any water, so I haven't been too worried in the months it's been obviously broken

[Bean]

I was planning on installing a recirculating coolant heater into one of the coolant lines, and with diesel conditioner and the "winter" mix there shouldn't be any issues with waxing or anything without the filter head heated. The shop pointed out that cold start ups the diesel isn't heated anyway, and they've found no need for it on any of their cars.

They're handy if you plan on doing WVO however - the guy mentioned that WVO'ers like to retrofit Peugeot heated filter heads to help keep the viscosity thin... I'll consider WVO if diesel gets really absurdly expensive - but for now I'll just be happy with the savings in economy.

Rabin

[tulaweb]

I got the block heater installed by a Peugeot dealer shortly after I bought the car from my Mother 19 years ago. I was taking it on a ski trip to eastern Canada in late January and my experience with that weather made me concerned that, without the block heater, I might have to wait till spring to come home. As it turned out, there was a major thaw affecting the whole northeastern US and eastern Canada and the daytime temperatures rarely went below freezing the whole week. I parked it where I would be able to plug it in, but never did. I make that same trip every year, but usually not in the diesel. 40 to 50 below zero temperatures are not unheard of. Maybe one of these years I’ll take the diesel again, just to prove I can.

[Bean]

This is the description I received from Stuart with info on his new filter set up:

I used a Parker/Racor 215R. In particular, I used a model 215R1210,

which comes with a 10 µm filter and a 12 V 200 W electric heater. The

filter is an R15T spin-on filter, which should be easy to obtain at a

diesel parts store.

Whereas the Purflux filter is rated 9 µm, Parker offers 2 µm (R15S), 10

µm (R15T), and 30 µm (R15P). I figured 10 µm is probably OK since that's

the rating for some domestic vehicles with Cummins engines that use the

same injection pump and similar injectors. 30 µm is considered a

prefilter, and 2 µm is for modern electronic common rail direct

injection with a prefilter.

I figured the heater was a good idea since the OEM filter head has a

coolant heat exchanger built in. Now I just have a coolant bypass hose

in its place. Since the foglamps are missing from my car, I repurposed

their wiring for switching the heater relay. I put in all new fused

wiring for the heater power and ground.

I have a word of caution about the Parker units. They use gorilla torque

to preassemble them at the factory, so it's a good idea to separate the

head, filter, and cup before installation. Once it's in the car, you

won't have much room to put a breaker bar (!) on the filter wrench. I am

glad I got a heads-up on that.

Also, the wiring connector for the heater on the 215R12 is odd and they

don't include a pigtail in the kit, but you can get it at a Chrysler

dealer. You can even get terminals there in case you want to disassemble

the connector and rebuild it on a clean, splice-free wire harness.

That's what I did. I can look up the part numbers if you're interested.

You can get a water-in-fuel sensor to add to the 215R, but it will

require a controller module (also from Parker) to be compatible with the

Peugeot gauge cluster. I elected not to bother, since I haven't yet

found a drop of water in my fuel. It will be an easy (but expensive)

addition if I decide it's necessary.

I'll be checking out what some of the diesel truck / implement places have for a filtration system options to see what I can find. There's a couple Parker / Racor set ups that have built in 12V pumps that would be great for automatic priming. I left the car a little too long and it didn't want to fire - I pulled the return line and used a transfer pump to pull diesel through the system and reconnected - fired instantly.

Rabin

[tulaweb]

Early on when I put this car back on the road I had trouble with both the top and bottom and I was looking at marine diesel filter setups, just because that's the only other diesel experience I've had. I wound up staying with the original, setup but did think about swapping out the whole thing. Stuart's canister just arrived in the mail a few minutes ago so maybe I'll go run another can of that Lubro Moly Diesel Purge through and then put the new canister and a new filter on it. (or maybe I'll keep on with the HVAC stuff I was working on before the mail came)

[tulaweb]

There's a couple Parker / Racor set ups that have built in 12V pumps that would be great for automatic priming. I left the car a little too long and it didn't want to fire - I pulled the return line and used a transfer pump to pull diesel through the system and reconnected - fired instantly.

Sounds like there's at least a little air leak someplace. Except when the diaphragm in the primer pump broke, I've never had mine loose it's prime, unless I introduced air in the system by opening something up.

[Bean]

Possibly a leak - but it's really very small as it was sitting likely 2 months since the last time I fired it. One or two weeks hasn't been a problem, but starting it this spring was difficult as I totally forgot about priming the injection system.

PO has an odd set up with no filter head at all - almost looks like a big petrol fuel filter out of something as the lines connect direct to the top of it. It might be in a metal housing - but I was set on returning it to a proper set up so I haven't even bothered with it.

Madhu just called me and can get me 1911.34 canister (for 82-83 diesels?) - but no idea what it looks like. If I can confirm it'll work with my new filter head I'll likely just stay stock and stick with Purflux filters with maybe a prefilter set up to help longevity.

Rabin

[tulaweb]

I'm not sure, but I think that's the shorter one that takes the C112 filter elements. If so, it will fit the original head as long as you have the shorter center bolt for it. I don't know what the functional difference is with using the smaller element. I imagine you would want to change it more frequently. I assume it has an adequate flow rate, but I think I'd be reluctant to go smaller that the stock filter. I used to have an 82 Diesel, but I don't remember the fuel filter. I have a couple of C112 filter elements in my trunk but I think I bought them by mistake rather than being leftovers from my 82.

[Bean]

I think I've finally narrowed my selection to a Standyne Fuel Management FM-100 filter head, 5 micron 6" filter, and 12V side load heater just in case. I'll also be doing a lift pump between the tank and the FM-100 so it should become a self priming system if needed.

Did a TON of research and the VW and MB guys seem to like them very much. What caught my eye was the ease of changing the filters, and the 5 micron filters that are said to still filter 90+ percent of 2 micron particles. Should bolt in place of where the factory ones goes as well.

I've also seen posts with VW guys replacing the fuel lines with clear polyurethane tubing that looks really cool, and is also resistant to biodiesel.....

http://www.procycle....n/fuel_hose.htm

It's also good for doing the injector connector lines. It's very highly rated and I like them being clear so that it's easy to diagnose any issues that could arise.

Rabin

[tulaweb]

I think I've finally narrowed my selection to a Standyne Fuel Management FM-100 filter head, 5 micron 6" filter, and 12V side load heater just in case.

That looks like a good choice.