bill Posted November 24, 2005 Report Share Posted November 24, 2005 Here's a tip from the trenches, and it is courtesy from St. Grubbs in the archives: I just replaced the NTC sensor, the one that measures the coolant temp. It goes the lower the temp, the higher the ohms. I am impressed with the difference after I plugged the new one in. I think that it is kinda one of those that, if it is sketchey, the car will still run. My idle and overall performance are much better. I vaguely remember him talking about one that was "borderline" one time, so that's what prompted me. It's the one that gets loosened when you want to bleed the cooling system. Blue plug at the top of the thermostat housing. 19mm. Bosch 0 280 130 126. Thanks Joe, my $20 is well spent. -Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted November 26, 2005 Report Share Posted November 26, 2005 glad to hear its running better. the ntc is critical with fuel, and timing maps so its one thing to check for and keep on top of with a well tuned car. the n9teA used a little different BLACK ntc sensor which also controlled what boost map was run. i think that black one is about $100 more new do you remember how off the old one was? at normal operating temp, it should be about 300 ohms if i remember right. were you getting an engine code? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted November 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2005 I went for a drive again tonight, and yep, the idle and performance are markedly better. I'm glad that that is the only thing I did, so now I know for sure. I also cleaned the connector, and the pins did need to be bent back a hair, as they had a decent sized gap between the ears. No codes before. I need a good thermometer. I have a candy one, but at boiling it reads 195 degrees F. So I unscientifically added 17 degrees to the range, then converted to C. I am going to be on the lookout for a decent Celsius thermometer, just to save a step and to get rid of the slack in my numbers. At any rate, I was getting 219ohms at boiling, and, according to the graph, the range is about 180-205. I also checked it at various temps, and at 87C I was getting 325ohms, and the range on the graph for that temp is ~250-325ohms. My readings on each successive reading were close to, or slightly exceeding the upper limit. It was around $20, and it is a nice tweak. It very well could have been the original one, and if it was, it's going on almost twenty years. -Bill glad to hear its running better. the ntc is critical with fuel, and timing maps so its one thing to check for and keep on top of with a well tuned car. the n9teA used a little different BLACK ntc sensor which also controlled what boost map was run. i think that black one is about $100 more new do you remember how off the old one was? at normal operating temp, it should be about 300 ohms if i remember right. were you getting an engine code? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted January 4, 2006 Report Share Posted January 4, 2006 OK, my car is a '91. There is a sensor at the side top of the thermostat housing with a Bosch type connector. It is blue. Is it the NTC sensor? Should mine be blue or black? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted January 5, 2006 Report Share Posted January 5, 2006 it sounds like your describing the right sensor. side of housing, top (above the brown thermo time switch). it should go like this: N9TE (86-87) = blue NTC N9TEA (88-89) = black NTC the N9TEA NTC sensor gives extra feedback for the electrovalve which modify's boost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted January 5, 2006 Report Share Posted January 5, 2006 it sounds like your describing the right sensor. side of housing, top (above the brown thermo time switch). it should go like this: N9TE (86-87) = blue NTC N9TEA (88-89) = black NTC the N9TEA NTC sensor gives extra feedback for the electrovalve which modify's boost. Mine is definitely blue. It seems to work "OK," but perhaps the price was a deterrent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted January 5, 2006 Report Share Posted January 5, 2006 i imagine it'd run ok, but you may have a little less power then you 'should' have Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted January 5, 2006 Report Share Posted January 5, 2006 The connector is blue, the end of the sensor black. At 70°F I am getting 4,700 ohms. I'll have to wait for the AFM to turbo hose to test the whole range of temperatures. Some cars have a default setting, way too high or way too low, the ECU dumps so much raw gas in the car barely starts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted January 5, 2006 Report Share Posted January 5, 2006 where did you end up finding the accordian hose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted January 5, 2006 Report Share Posted January 5, 2006 where did you end up finding the accordian hose? Unhappily, this is a discontinued part. Whoever I talked with at Disortex found a place (Peugeots in Pompano) who claimed to have a couple. The person in FL called me back and said blah-blah it shows it in inventory but it's not there. Then the kicker, "Is that satisfactory?" How obtuse, how could he think it's anything but unsatisfactory? In the interim, last night I used ShoeGoo on the hose after cleaning it with Brake Parts Cleaner. I installed it today, and I have swell idle. Brian Holm is sending me a used hose and a new throttle position potentiometer. Then I can set up the idle at 900 or whatever at 10°. I think it's too low now, and the timing curve is off accordingly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted January 6, 2006 Report Share Posted January 6, 2006 ouch! that's not good to hear. I was hoping they would still be available. so, why did you decide to get a new TPS? also, while your at it, it might be a good time to check the TPS and microswitch plugs for corrosion, and do some cleaning. and maybe a little packing with di-electric grease Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted January 6, 2006 Report Share Posted January 6, 2006 ouch! that's not good to hear. I was hoping they would still be available. so, why did you decide to get a new TPS? 1. General principles 2. Peace of mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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