yellow light codes??

[Guest]

So, I was told I needed a mass airflow meter when I bought the car, but I just want to be sure. Does anyone have a list of the reasons for the yellow blinking light on the gauges? Mine blinks five times slowly, then pauses. But if I get some boost going it will backfire, then blink five times, but really fast... any input would really help.

[Guest dane]

the only little yellow light on mine is the shift light i think that's what it is not totally sure though.

[N9TE]

So, I was told I needed a mass airflow meter when I bought the car, but I just want to be sure. Does anyone have a list of the reasons for the yellow blinking light on the gauges? Mine blinks five times slowly, then pauses. But if I get some boost going it will backfire, then blink five times, but really fast... any input would really help.

I dont have my manual handy at the moment, IIRC it is a bad or missing signal. In my non-professional opinion, 9 out of 10 AFM replacements are unnecessary. They're pretty robust units and unless someone has opened it up and ordained it a ghetto "fix" all you need to do is properly chean the connectors. Get yourself a can of CRC QD Electrical cleaner, clean the hell out of it, then get some diaelectric grease, apply, and reconnect the AFM.

Do this on every connecxtor that looks ratty. Works.

[Guest]

Yeah, its all torn apart. all the covers have been removed, so I have no idea what the kid did to it. he put a boost controller on it, and no aftermarket boost gauge, so I am wondering if it just freaking out the ecu when it realizes how much boost there is going through the car. I don't know much about these cars at all. I saw it online for $600 and talked him down to $400, so I bought it without doing any sort of research. Do they have a boost cut on the ecu? I may turn the boost knob down and see if it runs better.

[N9TE]

Yeah, its all torn apart. all the covers have been removed, so I have no idea what the kid did to it. he put a boost controller on it, and no aftermarket boost gauge, so I am wondering if it just freaking out the ecu when it realizes how much boost there is going through the car. I don't know much about these cars at all. I saw it online for $600 and talked him down to $400, so I bought it without doing any sort of research. Do they have a boost cut on the ecu? I may turn the boost knob down and see if it runs better.

$400 ain't too bad. What symptoms do you have? what are your goals for the car? How long do you plan on keeping it? Lastly, what's your car background/experience?

[Guest]

Well, as for prior car knowledge, I am mainly a toyota freak, I have had 4 ae86 corollas. I know my way around NA cars, but I am not a big turbo experienced guy. I had an 87 starion for a while, but it got a rod knock so

I sold it. My goals, are to have some semi reliable transportation for the time being until I can buy more of a DD. I am big on drifting, but nowadays everyone is. I just found out that this car was cheap, turbo, had an lsd, and was a runner/driver. As for the symptoms, If you get on it, it will randomly cut out and backfire/miss a lot. No specific RPM range, just kinda whenever it feels like it. Sometimes I can tear up the street in it and it does not fail, it will go up to redline and run about one notch before the red mark on the boost gauge. Although last night, it wnt all the way up to max on the gauge, almost instantaneously, I barely had time to react, and back off. And today, it was running fine at 1krpm idling, then randomly it just shut off, and I cant get it to start again. I think it flooded out, cause when I was turning it over it kept dumping black smoke, and smelled awful strong of gas. Any advice??

[N9TE]

Using the car as a DD can be tough. Helps to have the factory manuals. Kindda sounds like your TPS is outta adjustment. Just like Toyota TPSs, they're hypersensitive. Almost impossible to adjust by eye/ear/ass. you can get the book in PDF format from the links/Resources section here. It'll direct you to a great Finnish site (www.peugeot505.info).

You got a fair amount to learn. D/L the engine book and read it twice. The section on Bosch FI, 3 times. They also have pretty good diagnostic flow charts. Actually, theylre better than the TFSMs. I came from the Supra world and they're no harder than those.

You've seen it before, my Supra wont idle! My Supra misses. Toyotas use the same (bosch licensed) LU Jetronic that almost every car in the 80's did. From Alfas to Volvos. Becoming a LU Jetronic expert doesn't take much.

[Guest]

Thank you a bunch that was really helpful. What really bugs me about the car, is that I went to almost all the parts stores around here, and there are NO parts available. Not even any gaskets.

[N9TE]

Thank you a bunch that was really helpful. What really bugs me about the car, is that I went to almost all the parts stores around here, and there are NO parts available. Not even any gaskets.

Yup. Many parts are very hard to find. For Bosch consumables, go to www.rockauto.com. You can even key in Bosch part numbers there. For hard to find parts the best of the best if Javel (Rob Courter) in the vendors section.

Now that you know hard parts are to find and it's pretty much a classic car, you have to ask yourself how you want to view it. I picked up a 2nd turbo "as a DD" and do use it as such, but I treat it pretty nice and in spite of everything am thinking of restoring that one too. At some point it'll be too rare/nice to drive everyday even though that's why I bought it.

Same holds for many old cars. I'd love to get a Fuego/Dauphine/R10 or Fiat 500 or older Elan. All would make nice drivers... But it's not like a civic that if it gets punched, you just go get another one.