Bean

I'm glad you guys kept the forum limited till the traffic warranted an expansion - but now that it's time to expand, it might make sense to still keep it fairly basic. Maybe just divided it up into RWD, and FWD? Or by series? (4, 5, and 6?) I think a separate performance forum would be great as well - but I wouldn't limit it to just 505 Turbo's. Since speed freaks are generally interested in all modification ideas - it would be a good place to bounce ideas off other like minded individuals. Plus a lot of modification ideas for our cars are fairly universal. Rabin

Well - the bellhousing question is what this whole idea is based on. So far though it looks promising. As for the 2.6L - It makes sense that they take what they had and improve upon it. I know that the bore between the XD3 and the 2.6 are the same - so it *could* be a stroked XD motor with a new head on it - but that's mostly wishful thinking on my part. If I could stuff a 2.6L CRDe into the 504 wagon - it'd make for a decently quick, efficient car that would be the perfect highway runner. Heck - even having access to a NEW XD3T would be a nice option for getting that 504 wagon back on the road. Hopefully it works out - it'd make a kick ass family car! Rabin

http://www.peugeot-505.com/component/optio...1/limitstart,0/ Was just cruising and found this through the links on this site... Unfortunately it looks like they're doing the 4x??? instead of the 5x120 I originally was told they did. There isn't any documentation - but it looks like it would be pretty straight forward. From what I can see on my dark monitor - the bolts for attaching the disk are replaced by wheel studs/bolts that attach the disk and come right through and become the wheel studs as well. Pretty simple - too bad I'm already commited to the 5x120! Later... Rabin

The 8-spoke steelies would be a no... The Gotti wheels look like the Politechnic wheels - so I'm guessing they'll be quite expensive. If they were decently priced then I'd go for them. Hopefully before April I'll have some answers on the BMW wheel conversion - if all goes well I may even be able to provide converted hubs and spacers on an exchange basis - I have an extra set of the old style hubs and the ABS style... Keep your fingers crossed! Rabin

Hey August - that does indeed look like the Volvo intercooler. I've checked out getting one out of the 240 Turbo as well as I understand that they were all the same between the turbo Volvo cars. They are supposed to be pretty decent - but a proper alloy FMIC cooler is supposed to be better - but it's hard to pass up for $100 or so that you can get them on e-bay for. Rabin

It was indeed a fun trip. Definitely a life changing trip for sure. As for pictures - I took about 20 rolls of 24! I couldn't afford a decent digital that would rival the picture quality of my Nikon FE2 - so I decided to just shoot 35mm instead of sacrificing quality and getting a less than desireable digital camera. If I get a chance to post them online I'll pass on the link. Rabin

Yep - I ride too - just not right now though... My first bike was a 1977 CB750 Super Sport - cam broke in half and while looking for a replacement I found all this crazy aftermarket performance stuff for it. (Period drag engine upgrades - big bore kit, hot cam, covers, elect ignition etc.). Before I could assemble it my buddy that sold me the bike offered me cash for every penny I had into the bike and all the bits. I was low and cash and took the money. I shoulda kept it! Second bike was an 82 Kawasaki Spectre 1100. Shaft drive crusier bike. I put superbike handle bars on it, almost straight across instead of the mini ape hangers, knocked the forks down 2" in the triple clamps, and redid air distribution lines for them as well. Replaced the exhaust can with a 24" glass pack that was supposed to be a temp measure - but it sounded so sweet I kept it on! Painted it black with brand new rubber on it. Bike was super fast and looked a lot like a V-Max - but looked and sounded meaner. Sold it when I got married. I now have an 82 Kawaski GPz 750 that's in parts in my garage. I don't really have the time to fix it, and my wife has given the OK to buy a bike this spring so I'll likely be going for a nice sport touring bike. It'll depend on cash - so if I gave up the 505 Turbo I could get a Ducati ST4 - but since that isn't going to happen I'll have to settle for an older but still capable bike. I'm thinking a nice FJ1200, or an older ZX-10 - something comfy enough for a 1000 mile road trip, but still STUPID fast... Rabin

Very nice indeed! I'd just be happy with half that power - so it shouldn't be that hard should it? Rabin

Hey guys, Just got back from India yesterday - trip was a blast! I even visited a race course in Chennai - saw some pretty cool machines. Since I'm always looking for all things Peugeot I came across a couple tidbits that I'm working on getting more info on - if it pans out I may have a complete source of parts for the XD3's and maybe a bolt in replacement - a 2.6L common rail diesel to be exact! Turns out a company in India (Mahindra) has an engine deal with Peugeot and has used and is using what seems to be the XD3 in one of their SUV's (Bolero). Once I confirm it's the exact motor then I can look at sourcing parts and even complete motors. The most exciting possibility though is that they recently came out with a new model that uses a 2.6L Turbo diesel common rail motor - my hope is that they used the same bellhousing as the XD3 (Hoping of course it's the same pattern as the Peugeot's!) I don't know if it's sourced from Peugeot - or if it was done in house - but it's supposed to be a very good motor. The 5000 lb SUV it's in is supposed to be pretty quick. If this new motor has the same bellhousing pattern as the XD3 - I'll be importing one of these beasts for my 504 wagon. If the bellhousing doesn't match - then I may consider getting it anyway with the 5-sp tranny and just swap the hole unit in. If the 2.6 doesn't pan out or is too hard to source - then I'll look at the XD3 - but it's not turbo'd from what I can tell. (Might have to do source XD3 turbo upgrades here). One other option would be to source a Toyota diesel engine and tranny - the D4D is used there on some of their trucks and I heard that a couple 504's in Delhi had been retrofitted with the engine and tranny and it made for a FANTASTIC car. Trouble is that the Toyota's are in HIGH demand for the same reason - retrofitting existing trucks. Sadly there was no other Peugeot cross over I could find. Rabin (Time to start on my 505 wheel upgrade!)

http://www.bankspower.com/Tech_dieselperf.cfm For all the diesel fans - sounds pretty promising! After sampling that 90 Jetta GLi with the hopped up TDi I'd have to agree. That car would spin the front tires in 3rd gear when the car hit full boost! It would SMOKE the 505 Turbo in any acceleration contest - it wasn't even close. Too bad it sounded as loud as a tractor in the car or I could have bought it. The noise and the rough ride was too much for my wife to forgive as a "family" ar - but I was in love with that power train. It even had a Bora 6-sp in it. It was that car that got me thinking of seeing if the TDi injection system could somehow be retrofitted to the Pug diesels. I don't have any experience with the motors though - but the guys on the Peugeot-L list said it wasn't feasible... Too bad - a 2.5L Pug TDi hybrid with a big turbo would make for a very fast car.... Rabin

The only thing I don't like about the stock head is how shielded the spark plug is. Danielson found a way around it - but I still don't know how it was changed to get the 10mm spark plug in there. (I took a look to see if I could get mine changed like V-M did - but I had no idea how!) I'm thinking that if I can do a custom piston (Volvo?) and get some more displacement and compression I can afford to open up the combustion chamber a bit to expose the spark plug a bit more. Even indexing the plug would help a bit. (Making sure the electrode is open to the chamber - if the regular plugs are being used.) I may pony up for a Danielson head eventually (if mine cracks) - but It'd be a lot cheaper if I could pull a V-M and just have mine changed... I'm definitely curious on the flow characteristics - might have to get the head flow tested right after I get back from my trip... Rabin

I totally agree that losing the AFM isn't the holy grail of power production - but to me it's definitely one of the areas for improvement. The simple fact that the air path has a door that is pushed aside for the air to flow tells me that it's not necessarily the most ideal flow path. The size alone likely doesn't affect peak power production - it's just the way it measures the airflow. Spring loaded doors just seem to be the wrong way to do it. But it's a moot point if your just want a well running stock 505 Turbo - getting the car dialed in like Joe is famous for is going to net fantastic gains. I think the stock motor and set up (with tweaks) is going to easily hit the 250+HP mark. For me however - I'm pretty serious of my goal to get 300+ HP from this motor - and I want it to still be dead reliable. Since guys are getting this kind of power out of little Honda's, and Turbo Dodge guys are getting this out of their engines - I'm thinking it's entirely possible with the Peugeot. To me - In my mind - this has to be done with a more sophisticated engine management set up. I could be wrong - but I really want to try it and see for myself...

Hey Koll - Good to have you join the forum... I'm surprised it took you so long! Rabin

After shipping and exchange I'd be looking at $800 CDN for those - and that's just not worth it. I KNOW I can build them for less and they'll look just as pretty from the outside. (And still be well made) Depending on how easy they are to make, and if we can take molds from what we make, then it might be able to make them on a cost recovery basis. If it can't be done for max $200 USD for a set (without lights) - then I'll likely just play around and do up a set for myself. Ideally being able to do up housings for $100 USD would make it ideal and you might even be able to sell a couple sets. Rabin

Yep - I just checked them out and they are a 30mm drop. Works out to $365 CDN for a set - plus shipping of course. Not a bad price all things considered - I may have to e-mail them to see what the spring rates are - if it works it would save a heck of a lot of work. But doing a custom coil over is just cooler, so I'll probably do that and match them to Benz springs in the back. Is there any year in particular for the 190 springs? (There are virtually no european cars in Saskatchewan - so it's even weirder for me to be a Peugeot junkie. Sadly this also means no wrecks to pilfer parts from.) Rabin

Yep - What V-M said. I found the Canadian distributor but they've never returned any e-mails. I've heard they're over $800 for a pair though with lights - nothing concrete though. I love the look - but for that money I'd go for biode euro lights. I'm thinking of getting my buddy who's a fibreglass god to turn some ordinary US spec lights into that style. Make a stepped backing plate for the headlight buckets to mount to - then do up the headlight surround. If molds were done - it could be reproduced fairly easily - but again, tons of work with no return on investment. I've also seen them on South American cars - getting them sourced from there would be awesome - but Eduardo (From Peugeot-L) already said he couldn't locate anything when I asked him.... If you find something - let me know! I'd love a set for my car as well. Rabin

Very cool topic! V-M - any chance you can provide details on your recipe so we can cook the same dish? Spring rates, how much to cut off, weight of oil used etc etc. would be of great help. Also if you could describe the difference from stock to your new recipe? If I can find the right coil over kit, I'm thinking the fronts could be modified with threaded sleeve with adjustable perches and a different strut bearing. With the right top mount - you could then dial in some added camber should you so desire (or play with caster if you wanted to). The trick with this set up is knowing what spring rate to run. Watching the video of Heligon's 505 race car and I want my car to handle like that! (OK - not quite that hardcore - but somewhere in the middle would be nice.) Finding out his suspension specs would be amazing - same with the brake set up - know what it is and how to get it wwould be AWESOME. I'll be using AMSOIL racing shock fluid - comes in different weights so I'll just go a wee bit heavier than what comes out. The rear - I was hoping to do up a similar threaded collar system - but that would have to be all custom made which isn't likely going to be worth it - so running some stiffer rear springs that fit and some heavier rear shocks is going to have to be the ticket. Likely need to do the rear first - then sort out the front spring rates so as to give the car that same sense of balance it has stock - just stiffer and lower all around. So I've very interested in the MB 190 springs used... (I'm guessing lower aftermaket 190 springs could be used untouched?) The rear shocks I was going to experiment with Mid 80's Ford F150 front shocks. The install the same - I just have to make sure they have a similar operating length. If that works - Options for damping rates open up since the same suspension was used on the 250's, and the 350's. Offroad or custom options also open up - so hopefully something in that line up works and fits the 505 Turbo... Rabin

Hey guys, With the help of my lovely wife who speaks and reads French fairly well - I was able to join the French forum site: http://forum.aceboard.net/index.php?login=21253 I was hoping to gain access to see some pictures at least - and hopefully see if anyone spoke english - but no luck. Apparently the good bits (Photos, videos) require a paid membership of some sort, and the rules of the site say that all posts have to be in French. You can not use your name, or give your address either. I was kinda hoping to at least see some pictures or cool video's - but no such luck. I was also hoping to see if I could get more info on Heligon's race car - some engine build info, or even some performance stats would be great. I'm curious how much an ex-production car would go for - a buddy can get good deals on containers shipments - so bringing a car over would be about $900 - $1000 CDN. That'd be so much cheaper and easier to by an ex-super touring 505... Later... Rabin

Very nice pic indeed! I love how much cleaner the Euro version of the 505 was - what a great looking car. (It still makes me smile when I see a nice clean well taken car of 505. Rabin

Ice racing is still on! Can't give that up - that'd be CRAZY! Unfortunately though - do to my holidays, I'll be missing the first few races in January and the first part of Febuary. The 505 STI that I run (aka Black Hazard) is going to need some TLC - so the guys will have to get her into shape before the season starts. Change fluids, and get the rad fixed. We also need to restud the winter tires... Hopefully I can get some racing in after i get back - but I can't complain about spending almost 6 weeks in India while Saskatchewan goes through the heart of winter! The slot car is actually a very detailed little car - and since buddies often have slot car nights I figured I'd get one to add to my Pug collection, as well as havesomething to run at these get togethers. Although I found out later that the 4WD cars aren't as fast as the RWD cars... Ah well - I figured 4WD slot car was super cool anyway... Rabin

So a bunch of guys in my car club race slot cars in the winter. I've been holding out till now - but I figured if I'm going to do it - I better do it in style. Hopefully I'll have better luck with it racing than Peugeot did though! http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6022483175 Anybody else run these things? Rabin

Looks like our friend Yq397r was paid a nice compliment... http://heligon505.free.fr/pages/6.html Great site - and it's AWESOME that the old beast is still competitve. He must be able to drive too! Rabin

O-ringing the block is essentially grooving around all the water passages, and using special rubber o-rings to seal all the coolant passages. (Has to be high heat - I assume like the turbo to intake sealing o-rings) The combustion chambers have grooves around them as well and special metal o-rings are used to seal the combustion chambers. The RS200 Evo I worked had this done to the engine - but Geoff (The engine builder) said it was necessary since he built the engine to withstand 3.5 bar of boost! It made 900 HP at around 2.5 bar when they raced it at Pikes Peak... (They figured more than 900 would just take out the drivetrain) I asked him about doing the same with a regular motor - and he said it would be fine - just labour intensive to source the pieces. Lots of trial and fit - and in their shop all the supplies were readily at hand. Any machine shop should be able to cut the grooves for the o-rings when the machine the block. I also know that an old hot rodder trick was to groove around the pistons in the block, and "make" copper o-rings out of household electrical copper! (The same 14 ga wire in your house!) The just put in two rings and made sure the joins didn't overlap each other. It's said that it allowed the guys to run superchargers with stock head gaskets. I asked him about doing the entire gaskte in copper as well and he's the one that said the stuff about machining everything, and make sure it's surgically clean on reassembly. I found out later about using the special copper sealant as well. Another option which I see a lot of now is a multi-layer steel head gasket for high performance engines. Those can be easily made like the copper head gaskets - but they have the embossed ridges to help in sealing that I'm not sure how you'd do manually.

August - that find for bearings shells would be GOLD!! Even knowing it's from a Toyota would help in finding a starting point. We should get Koll on that since he's a Toyota guy... V-M - the head gasket shouldn't be that big of an issue since guys are using other materials quite readily. Even getting the block o-ringed is a possibility. I'm likely going to try a custom copper gasket - from what I hear both surfaces HAVE to be machined clean, and the gasket has to be coated with a special sealant. When this is done they are VERY leak proof and can hold a ton of boost. I'm going to draw up the gasket in CAD, and then have it cut with a CNC water jet cutter. I've seen the results from this machine - and it's amazingly clean - almost looks machined. As for the other stuff I'm not that big a stickler for orginality if the replacement is better than the original - so retrofitting other items that work better would be cool with me. Rabin

Apologies in advance to the 405 T16 admirers... http://www.vsocial.com/video/?d=701 Ouchy...