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Hi Johnny, Firstly - the english word for the "wheel house" is the Wheel well... Often referred to inner and outter wheel wells depending on where you need to refer... Not sure what you meant by "tub" though. "Tubbing" here means to widen the wheel wells into the car to fit wider wheels... As for the rear brakes - make sure the rear wheels are lifted off the ground or the compensator won't allow fluid to the calipers - you need to bleed the brakes with the suspension compressed. If that's not the problem - I'd check the lines as you should get fluid to all the brakes without an operational pump... If the car has sat a while - you might want to bench bleed the master on the bench... Just get some short lines and run them back into the resevoir - and then pump the master manually with a rod of some sort. This will eliminate the master and ensure it's bled properly. Good luck! Rabin

Hi Kriss, Follow August's suggestion to test the "trigger" wire at the starter. (It's the only small wire to the starter - slides onto a male spade connector). If you're not getting proper power here there is a relay fix to use the weak power from that wire to trigger a relay you install that switches a nice strong 12V supply that you provide. It's a common "upgrade" on 505's and works pretty well - much easier than replacing the switch. As an aside - I've disabled the ignition switch on a couple Peugeot's, and replaced them with a series of hidden toggle switches and a push button starter. Necessity at the time - but I'll probably do a nicer "race" set up for the 505 Turbo at some point... That would work as well if you wanted. Rabin

I can't see the pics in the link to your myspace and don't want to sign up... (Facebook is all I want to give into!) So I can't comment on the other pics you have regarding the exhaust. As for back pressure being a good thing - it's not really. NA cars need exhaust velocity and flow to be effective. If done well there's little to no back pressure with high velocity flow, with a good scavenging effect from a tuned header... So proper sizing is really important. (If you can't tune the engine that's been set up with backpressure taken into account - then you'll need BP to run properly - but it's still not ideal for peak power.) Once you have possession of the car - the posts and stuff will make a lot more sense. And you can take better pics for us not on myspace... Rabin

I'm sure when new the rubber pipe helped some - but mine's really brittle and it has no give - so it would surge back to the turbo for sure. Can't say anthing about response though as I haven't done the BOV yet. Car weighs about 3100 lbs in stock loaded trim I believe. There's a post with exact weights if you want to search it though... Rabin

They don't have a stock BOV (hence the lag in auto-x), and they have Bosch L-jet which uses a VAF. (Vane air flow meter)... I know Trevor and maybe August run BOV's and I'll be running one as well - but I want to vent mine back preturbo to help with response... (Probably negligible - but I'll do it anyway... As for venting the TMIC - probably the easiest rather than FMIC - but not as cool... The car has an underhood scoop that directs cool air to the top of it, so if you built a box underneath it and vented it to a low pressure area it would help air flow through it alot. That or put a scoop on the top of it through the hood... You could also put a reverse scoop on it, and bring pressurized air under it to get more air flow... Basically anything you find to get more air flowing through it is what you want... Rabin

The Turbos (and the ST*'s I think) received stiffer spring rates and increased damping, thicker sway bars, poly sway bar bushings, and only the turbo's and V6's got the vented front disks... They still corner on their door handles - but the car is still very stable and incredibly easy to control... I tended to push the handling/tire limits on autocrosses - but once in the groove they are amazing fun at the limit. Hoping my planned upgrades take it up a notch though - but it'll be hard to make it better without comprimises... Out of the box they are incredible all round cars. Rabin

Hey man, All are welcome here - but you might find more technical resourses on the yahoo group Peugeot-L... It's a very active group with lots of diesel heads that are a weath of info... Must of us here are offshoots of that group that are more focused on performance of the 505 Turbos and such... From what I know - the 5-sp is only in the sedan, and the XD3T in the newer 86 car would be ideal - but I think they're rare with the newer dash... Good luck - as I'd love to join the ranks as well but there are none left up here... Rabin

No cutting at all - just need to have a parts car with all the goodies to swap it over. Only thing needed is to put a pilot bearing into the crank for the 5-sp input shaft. Good luck man and keep us posted! Rabin

Very cool Josh! Welcome to the forum! Please post up some pics! I too have an 86' GL Turbo and they're pretty rare. The stiff suspension is the 505 Turbo sport suspension - and while it feels stiff - the ride is still remarkably good soaking up LARGE pot holes and such with ease. Not quite as cushy as the regular 505's - but a MUCH better drivers car. Rabin

Hi there, Not sure how many are near to you on this forum, but there's an active yahoo group called Peugeot-L that would be a good place to post this as well... Rabin

Man - if a nice turbo wagon is what you want you need to snap up John Goodyear's turbo wagon he advertized on Peugeot-L... It's an absolute STEAL for $3500 and if you took the motor and turbo for the race car it'd be stupid fast... (Dani head, cam, and a major upgrade to the turbo... ) Curse living in Canada so far away from the good deals! lol Rabin

Awesome pictures Bryan! Especially cool for me as our cars look like twins... So any luck on finding a replacement? Rabin PS: Best wishes to all this holiday season too!

Good to hear you're taking a chance... I should clarify though - the car hooks up pretty damn well in spirited driving - but when going 10/10's on a slalom course that meant keeping it on boost as much as possible to avoid the lag... Sometimes that meant some "drifting" techniques were needed keep it on boost through a turn for the straight... Not usually the fast way around in a slolom - but it was when I was having to avoid the lag... It'll be much better now with a BOV - but stock the lag really sucks on a close course. When I designed the courses they were wide open power courses and the car usually did really well indeed. Rabin

Thanks Manny... I'll be starting in earnest in January, with getting the perches of a spare set of struts machined off and the spindle used for a pattern for the sleeves. Once I get the BMW hubs I should be able to make decent progress for sure - and will keep you posted. Rabin

Dash lights are amber... Proper boost gauge is also a must... Keep us posted on what you decide - and yes - if you pass on it and decide to part it out you'll easily make you're tow $$ back on parts. Rabin

Very cool find indeed! Hopefully we can get more info on it... I keep thinking of a boosted V6 - but I keep coming back to a SC instead of turbos to get the immediate response... Something like the bolt on Vortec blowers popular on Mustangs and such. Easy to install - self contained, and decent boost... Ah well - still a pipe dream at this point - but oh so cool to contemplate! Rabin

Hey Matt, TMIC's are retarded - but it's a packaging consideration since it's easily integrated into production since it's part of the motor rather than requiring changes to the body shell. (Mazda Speed 6 does the same thing even now.) As for the head - they are rare like hens teeth - so when you have them uncracked they're pretty valuable to that person - but worthless to others! So you can find them on e-bay once in a while and they go CHEAP usually. A GOOD machine shop experienced with welding alloy cracks can probably fix it with no problem - the issue is finding a GOOD shop to do the work. Once welded and stress relieved the head is good to go. As for mileage - it's with any car. All my cars run good synthetic, proper warm up, cool down, and the oil gets changed often. My car probably only has 120K miles and it still had (has?) 120 psi straight across. (purchased with 70 K miles) Seals are tired though and it needs some freshening - but it's still a fast car with only running 12 psi boost. Slaloming it was a waste with any more boost as it spins like crazy on boost - which is fun - but not fast. Car is VERY well balanced though so I could dance the thing through gates sideways and still get decent times. Car is limited with the wheels though - as it needs more rubber to put the power down. (See my post on the wheel upgrade I'm working on.) I wouldn't make and decisions till you actually check the car out. Verify what it has, and verify if it the head is cracked. If you're waivering and aren't sure - just pull the plugs and squirt WD40 down the holes before firing it up - don't worry about the valvetrain oiling. Fire it up and see what it sounds like. If it sounds good after warming up - then you can consider patching the cooling system enough to see if the head is cracked. (Compression test should tell too) but the crack will sometimes need heat to open up - so it has to run for a bit. The car is a fantastic driver - and if running well - you will not be disappointed. It's a very unique car that NO ONE ELSE likely has within 50 miles! I dig the exclusive factor as most don't know what it is - but I still haven't found a better balanced, comfortable car that puts a smile on my face like the 505 Turbo. Rabin

Hey Matt, Try reading through this site for topics on engine build ups - there's been a lot of bench racing and stuff, and there are those that are building up engines, as well as those that just hopped up existing engines without touching the internals. As with anything it's all about the $$$ spent. If you want the minimum - then you need to upgrade injectores to 804's at least (337cc) and then you could probably run 17 psi and that should get you a good 250+ HP but you'd want to also either vent the TMIC or change it to a FMIC. Any higher boost and you'd need to do water injection. As with anything though - doing it on the cheap means it's not ideal and longevity suffers. If the head is cracked - there's a place called Ericsson Industries that rebuilds heads - I think it's around a $1500 touch if they still do them. Back to the $$$ - if you want to spend the big bucks - you can build these engines into whatever you want. Internal parts are hard to come by - so we're trying to find substitutes for stuff that are no longer available. Right now main and rod bearings are hard to find stock - but we just need to find something that will work instead. I've researched Ford 2.3 Turbo pistons and they should work with the rods + take displacement up to 2.5L. Lots of room in the block to bore out - but I'm I've got to sort out a source for bearings before I dive in. With high boost the engine and head will hold it, but the engine uses head bolts - so I was going to change them to head studs with a custom head gasket. My plan is for 300+ RWHP - but I'm on a LONG term build up... Exhaust is stainless, with mandrel bends and about 2.5" - good for anything you do to about 250 HP - but the rear muffler would be good to replace as the internal baffles often come loose and sound like ass. I'd suggest the daily driver bit, but the drag part I'd say not so much. The car's meant to be a killer highway cruiser, but I've autocrossed mine and it's still a hoot. Straight line stuff would be a waste of the cars strengths - but it has the jam to be decent at it. Rabin

Out of curiousity did you do it in 5th or 4th? The xn6 cars I've had never could pull top speed in 5th, but would redline in 4th which was faster... Can't remember the top speed though... My first car was a 504 with a V6 4-sp swapped into it. It would redline in 4th, and I remember calculating how fast it was based on RPM, gearing, and tire sizes - and it came out to a top speed of 141 MPH... In a 76' 504 sedan... I had so much fun in that car... Had a couple favorite moments with surprising people with that one.

Kudo's on the 3000 GT and for doing the work yourself! The 3000GT is kinda like the 505 Turbo's in that they're mostly under rated and usually not well known - but for the few that do know what they are and what they are capable of - they're treasured. A buddy at work up here in Regina SK has a GORGEOUS red 3000 GT VR4 (may not know the official name... He's crazy anal and the car even has new weatherstripping. He just upgraded the turbo's and has a whack load into it - had no idea those engines can push 1000 HP... His target is 600+ AWHP. As for the Pug - they're a DAMN fine car with some potential, and one of the nicest handling cars for the vintage and even today if the suspension is in good shape. From the pic on this post it's an 86 - 88'. From what you described - if the engine got REALLY hot there's a big chance the headgasket is gone and possibly a head crack - but the best thing to do is get it running after taking the usual precautions for an engine that has sat (change oil with cheapest store brand oil, pull plugs, oil cylinders, pull valve cover, oil valvetrain, crank with no plugs to lube engine) Do a compression test and see how good the numbers are. I'd also check the fuel tank for stale/rusty fuel - drain and fill with fresh if possible. You can do without the pre-oiling - but I go the extra step to avoid any issues of turning a dry motor. If compression looks good (all within 10% and over 100 psi) - then go about firing it up. Once running - check the overflow resevoir for bubbles while idling - if there's bubbles then you likely have a head crack - it which case you probably have a nice parts car. Good 505 Turbo's are cheap if you find the right one - so even though this one's free - it still might be cheaper to get a runner. As for the seats - give them a try before swapping them out - they're world famous seats man - some of the best ever put in a car. I've never sat in 3000 GT seats - but I've done a bonzai 40 hour drive from Virgina to Saskatchewan in my 86 Turbo and it was no problem in those seats. Easily some of the best I've ever sat in. BTW - I'm older now - but I first started in with Peugeot's I was your age too. Swapped a V6 4-sp stick into a 504 Peugeot that was a 4 cylinder auto in my driveway with no books, and some basic tools. What I learned on that car took me a LONG way - from my professional career in IT (long story) to working as a race mechanic at Pike's Peak on a Ford RS200evo driven by Stig Blomqvist... I'm now 36 - and I STILL love Peugeots! Not sure what you're budget is, but I think the car is worth it as a driver. You likely won't make money on it, and it will cost more than it's worth to fix - but once running you likely won't regret it one bit. There's probably a reason why you're uncle had it in his stable - so ask him what he thought of it! quick and dirty answers: - 160 - 170 HP stock, 215 ft lbs torque - but the car feels pretty quick indeed. Turbo is a bit laggy - but a hoot once spooled. - Handles AWESOME. great brakes, and one of the best feeling suspensions out there. - If maintained well - very reliable. If not - it's just like most any other car. I've bought several "white elephants" and each one was dead reliable with proper care and tuning - often undoing other idiot fixes done by inexperienced mechanics. - major issue is the cracked head. It cracks from the exhaust valve to the cooling jacket - so coolant gets burned and the cooling system gets pressurized with combustion pressure. Second would be overboosting caused by a stuck or leaking WG - that usually ends in piston damage. Car is pretty reliable otherwise. Good to have you on the site! Rabin

MMMmmmmmmmmmm... V6 5-sp... It's pretty damn tempting... Can you post pics? It's unlikely I'd go for it as I have too many already - but pics always help. Rabin

Welcome to the forum Kriss... We're going to need more details to help out - like the engine type, and whether or not it idles with the factory air filter back on it. If thats the case then there's likely a vacuum leak or something - but you'll need to do some troubleshooting first... Pictures always help if you don't have a lot of info about the car and we can help fill in the blanks. Rabin

5sp or auto? ABS? (Don't think 87's had it - just making sure) As for the belts and brakes - if it's just needing brake pads then both should be easy to get from a good parts place. Try to find an Altrom parts distributor and they should be able to hook you up. Beck Arnley are also a good distributor so try to find parts places that deal with them too. Welcome to the forum BTW... Rabin

Hi Dennis, I'd gladly trade you - but I'm WAY too far away to be of any use... If I were you I'd look at just buying an XN6 car as it'd be cheaper and easier to do in the long run. You might be able to find a buyer for the car as is - and then put that money towards an XN6 car... I've thought about putting an XN6 into an 85 Turbo car - but using the L-Jet from the Turbo instead of the CIS - basically swap the N9T motor out with an XN6 but fit the injection and merge the spark - but it's only been an idea at this point... Has the potential for a decent runner - but I've never heard of anyone doing it. Swapping the CIS stuff to the turbo car would be a PITA though - so it might be worth a look. Good luck! Rabin

LOL - nope - plan is to get it on the track for ththe beginning of May for a driving school to get my race license. I've done some more planning, and the sleeves will definitely be out of steel as I thought the spindle was smaller than it was... So the sleeve I have planned to use the BMW hub won't be thick at all - so it'll need the strength of steel to hold the hub, and the weight will be negligible since it's going to be fairly thin. I've worked out a deal and traded some 14" Michelin tires for shop time to get the first set made. Once the prototypes are done and I give them 3 days of track school for testing (and they survive!), then they should be easy to reproduce for others. Rabin