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V-M

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Everything posted by V-M

  1. There is two stage set from Danielson 200hp and 236hp 200hp (stage 1) is: - Cam - FPR (3.2bar) - actuator (stiffer ~1bar) 236hp (stage 2) is: - Head (with 10mm sparkplugs (NGK C8E and repositioning on plug hole near exhaust valve) - Cam - FPR - Actuator V-M
  2. That's sad and true That was best source of knowledge in 3-5years ago... V-M
  3. Those aftermarket tensioners SUCKS! I have seen too many bad ones... rollers are in wrong angle, bearings "worn" before eaven used, etc... V-M
  4. Copper is good and cheap alternative, Opel hobbyists are using those between head and exh.manifold. V-M
  5. Those 505 type is one of kind, some close ones are some VAG and one Volvo type used. (VAG is Volkswagen/Audi/Sear/Scoda group) So bit difficult one to find. V-M
  6. In that picture you can see that BIG scratch on cylinder 3 (second from front) that was due totally strange oil rings. I have build over 100 engines and never had such problems to fit piston rings. I did remove that piston and did some honing on cylinder and hope for best. V-M
  7. Cam gear pictures added, not fancy but working 4 Deg in each side from 0 point. V-M
  8. Studs are goooood but I'd believe at this is needed in current boost levels? Surely it's good in any level but for me it's too expencive (no bang for buck) New pictures added in web page (project section), I'll try to make some story of whole engine building (but now I have no energy to do such thing). But ask if someting is interesting or seems odd or... anything V-M
  9. About turbos: That GT25 is nice alternative if you don't need any extra power but like to have spooling bit less rev DiscoPotato seems to be good one (there is couple of different models) for this size of engine. Many of Saab ovners in Finland have replaced original with that. I'd like to have one but price in here is too much, over 1000€ V-M
  10. It's easier to make totally new DP than adding this extra pipe. Same job and less restriction and easy add lamda in good place. I'm adding new pictures now in Project section, see lamda and other things from there. V-M
  11. Peugeot/Talbot type code is 9N2 this is without turbo (Talbot Tagora), Chrysler type code is 7T2 = 2L model, 7S2 =1.8L model and 7R2=1.6L. That end number is carburator type code. Toni mentioned this ROC twincam engine, yes thats correct at they build this for some formula use. I have tryied to find info on that but no luck. Now I'm testing if Volvo 16V head can be "re-used" , Saab head was too much different for this block. V-M
  12. Those mentioned BX are bit rare in europe also, only couple of are sold and used "normal" persons. Only factory supported rally teams tested that one in some races. V-M
  13. I have opened ~10 N9T engines and none of them has that and I did try to find way to add that but didn't find any place for those. I have Saab 9000 and Mi16 spayers ready but no luck with those V-M
  14. Do you mean price or availability? Main -> ~150€ -> I have many sets Con. -> ~150€ -> couple of sets Tens. -> 60-80€ (XU diesel model) -> available widely Chain -> 70-90€ -> not sure, but should be easy to find Oil pump is easy to measure and I have lifted pressure by adding some spacers behind of pressure regulator spring (1.5mm). I would not use over 2bar boost on this engine, I'd don't believe at head will hold that. And surely not with 96mm pistons. IMHO So with std gasget can do over 1bar (not tested). V-M
  15. Original pistons are Mahle also. That heat stress is true. I have also heard of rust agening and also owen (heat) stress agening. V-M
  16. Go for GT28 at least, GT25 limitation is ~270-280hp on engine. I have GT25M on my Saab (originally). V-M
  17. Easier O-ring adaption is as racing guys are doing is at cut metal part of normal head gasket and machine place for ring in block. V-M
  18. Bearings, chain, tensioner, oilpump etc... are same. I have a lot of those main bearings, con.rod bearings are bit harder to find. V-M
  19. Welding and plug holes where nearly the same plug holes work was bit suprise (bad one). Next head I'll do those my self. There is no downsize They added extra exhaust manifold srew at front and those extra rings between exh. manifold and head. I have couple of those Talbot/Matra/Chrysler heads also V-M
  20. Well, bit difficult to tell cause I don't know right name on that where back wheel support is connected and it's girder? I this picture pipe goinig trought there it's under back silencers. That is made in 2,5" and it's very difficult to keep of hitting edges on that narrow place. And it's 3" from turbo to this "narrow place". Next time I'll go to have car up I'll have some pictures below of car. But any way, of cause 3" DP helps eaven short one but like they say "Bigger is better" V-M
  21. Well, difference is that 30hp which is stage 1 and stage 2 difference. So theory should do also in practice Also it adds more compression, a little but still. V-M
  22. That is very good "as is" turbine housing, that will give 50-70hp more with good DP than original turbine housing (exhaust pressure is low). Just add 3" pipe from turbo to "this narrow place near rear diff." and rest can be normal size and you get much more power out. Aaa... but you need this catalysator there... maybe add some high flow cat. But you can remove this middle silencer (nearly no extra sound was coming). I findout at normal std turbo max boost were 0.8bar after that heat load was increasing rapidly but that turbo with better turbine housing and DP can do bit over 1bar -> 240-260hp? About that picture, I only change that DP and rise boost with bleeder (0.2bar -> 1.1bar) on my Saab and get 165kW from wheels (automat and originally 147kW from engine) Of cause small hand works also head etc... but point is eaven in that flange it's 2.25" from start and tight turn and then changes to 3" and still giving good responce This Dyno result is on my page also. V-M
  23. Just for hint. no chip change on that car. It's bit hard to change just chip. maybe whole system. We hve ~50 cars on country total. I' have record of 40 of those. And 11 of those have been gone trought my hands. V-M
  24. Also Volvo B21ET piston can be used but conrod needs to canged (needs to be bit shorter conrod) more than can be removed from top of piston. 21ET piston size is 92mm and have space in piston top also. V-M
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