V-M

Those where used only N9T series (83-85) engines. Later ones have normal valves. (I have currently 9 heads on storage, 2 of them are original dani heads) V-M

Should be around 300hp from engine in that setup, if you have original cam. With dani or some other modified cam it will be more. Flange is sold in last year August V-M

I would not go over 1.1-1.2 bar with original turbo and min. 2,5" (3" recomend) down pipe. Back pressure is generating just heat and not gaining any power. Water injection is nice but it has very minimal effect on power dependin if it's on spray to cylinder or spray to FMIC?. Some Subaru WRX test was at it was more effective on FMIC but amount of water needed is back gained by weight of water V-M

I have not installed those yet No strut modifications needed with that spring. Procedure with original struts is bit difficult to explain but it can be done. I have asked lovering spring set and custom shocks, they will do those but minimum quantity is 25pcs for both sets. Spring manufacturer is KAW and shock manufacturer is AVO (makes racing shock's). V-M

NOTE! At I was wrong about engine type. But any way nearly any engine can be turned to turbo chaged IF those few things are changed/ensured. And of cause with small modification means => small turbo pressure. Like max 0.5bar. And recomendation is to use some engine management system also. Note at you need to change also transmission to fit this power to ground... current one will not make it. My opinion is two ways. 1. Don't modify it at all. 2. Chance whole engine to some modern any brand turbo engine (easy to find parts) (I'll use saab 2.3L, 4cyl, turbo engine, If I'll ever do this swap). Using N9T based engine is way too expencive and hard to find parts are a lot. IMHO V-M

They all fits 100% V-M

Ah... u re right! But anyway same idea. V-M

No open filters (please!). Those are just total bullshit and garbage without no gain for power. Original injectors are good for 220-240hp with 3bar FPR. Original filter will do easily close to 300hp, more if this filter cover "hatch" is cut open. I did use this open filter cause there was no space and I'm driving less than 1000km/year (last year ~50km). Well... this XN6 will do it also, only thing is change con rods and pistons to fit turbo use. Here in Finland is one which is done to this engine it has Hestec and it has pulled out over 250hp and over 400Nm. Engine parts are cheaper and bit easily to find than this N9T parts. But surely when aim is more than 250hp then N9T or some other brand will do the tric IMHO V-M

That celica was kept on harbour half full of sand in container (for a while) in arabic emirates, owned by some local prince who bought it after race... That MAT people also are certified ferrari service in Finland Also this is nice http://www.mat.fi/video_aford.htm V-M

I did fast "repair" for this blower "whine", I drilled small hole in sound cover and blower cover and used spray grease and pipe. Did work okay for me. Sure it's only short term fix And hole should be on right spot. V-M

Nope. I can't imagine reason to sell Well, sure I'll sell but selling price is ridiculous high In that price u can buy new 17" wheels + tyres + and make/buy adapters for them. These 14" will be placed on this 505 coupe (when ever I'll have time build it?). If I find suitable 17" with 10-15et wheels then I'll sell these 14" V-M

They are on my carage :-) those wolfrace wheels are 15"

Don't use 505T IC! Use Saab 9000 or volvo 200/900 series FIC:s. That 505 original suck's. V-M

I would say whith stock setup 0.8bar is max (can peak in 0.9) but eaven then timing adwance must be correct and all systems (injectors, knocking detection, etc...) have to work. Adding more fuel and install fex.2.5" down pipe 0.9bar is ok for continous pressure. Original pistons are wery sensitive for knoking, those breaks easily (I have 3 sets (4 pistons) which are broke from between 1st and 2nd ring), those are from different engines. For 1bar and over needed changes are more hardware changes. I did have 1bar and peaking 1.1bar in my dyno run. My limitter was original injection and advance system. V-M

Must be done in small increments and measure pressure. I have used them years. (in dani set there is 3.1bar fpr, my dani kit fpr was done by pressing 2.5bar fpr) V-M

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=90921 http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2637/article.html (here u can find bosch numbers for 3bar and 3.5bar regulators) V-M

OEM is 2.6bar measured and marked 2.5bar. Replacement can be 3.0bar found in several car's like saab 900 I think 3.5bar is going to limit of normal fuel pump (max. pressure 4-4.5bar) 3.5bar + 1bar boost = 4.5bar fuel pressure => max. fuel pressure => less output (volume) from pump. output drops dramatically after 3.7-4bar limit (in normal pumps). So I'd not go over 3bar regulator. Offcause u can self made 3bar reg from 2.5bar reg there is guides in web for that. I have done those several. V-M

That is for N9T engine, see spec-cluch web site. V-M

I couple of weeks I should have space in my garage to start working with my "beast" some new toys found and to be installed. One is this SPEC cluch (stage3) http://picasaweb.google.com/vellumasa And wideband lamda + Innovate LC-1 for transferring information to laptop. Also did get on my hands dani head (yes again) so currently having 2 originals and one sef made danis. V-M

During winter time I managed to clean and paint those rare 4 X 140 6" wide 14" ATS wheels. Installed 195/60/14 summer tyres on them. http://picasaweb.google.com/vellumasa V-M

Depending wich u have there currently? Low or high ohms? Basically u can fit there any of them If u have high ohm currently, u can add low ohm by adding 8Ohm power resistor/2 injector set and if you have low ohm's currently u can put there any of them. Adding high ohms to low ohm system will only cause some 0.6-0.8ms delay on opening and closing (no effect on usage). But newer put low ohm inj on high inj. system directly! It damages injection ECU. V-M

Well I try to explain someting about it, I have not welded them by my self. Way too complicated to weld aluminium (I have welded a lot when working in steelfactory maintenance group). But I have contact who has welded over 10000 aluminium heads (for saab warranty issues). So he said at that material is very poor quality (a lot of dirt and oxygen bubles) compared on many other brands. He is no cheap but compared to brand new head (costs 14000€ with out valves and cam) price is ok And he knows what needs to be done and those heads are worked good after he's job. AnyWay: basic method for removing valve seats is heating, I have used welding on seat some like 2 X 1cm long draw on seat and let them cool and they should pop easily out. Or heat head like 80 Deg C and use cold spray on seat and same effect. V-M

Mine Mega is still on box due some delays on building activities V-M

I have SaaB 9000 (never model) IC. But any FIc is better than originel one. V-M

You can use any US brand fuel pump (electrical one's) . If it's injection model. V-M