V-M

As I try to say before, there is no use for change injectors. you gain only more fuel consumption thats all. Just lift boost to 0.8bar with originals set up and thats it. You need to upgrade injectors after other parts are limitting power than injectors (as I sayed those are good for 270hp). V-M

Same hairdryier as I am using on my 505 V-M

True... I don't remember original measurement from 505? I think that Nissan was correct and better. V-M

At fast look those looks similar what I did use from brembo listing. V-M

Surely front struts from some other car than 505 on rear, but not 505 front struts. V-M

At least in Europe you can use Toyota Landcruiser Diesel 1990-94 front disks, needs small modification. but fits nicely and are easy to find and cheap. Front struts at rear? Bit impossible task to do? Only rear shocks to be serviced are KONI and Bilstein. Front originals are serviceable, but any other than originals are strut inserts. V-M

Or 390mm rims (rare but possible)? V-M

From those claimed ones I found was those where actually 504 coupe's V-M

In fact I have knowledge and collected information of 2 made (1 France and 1 US) and all others are just rumours... There is no self made come in front anywhere... (I'm planning to do one). V-M

There should not be any of then in Belgium If there is then I'll take plane now there and see my self Where exactly that is? So if thats true it increases amount of made coupes to 6pcs? V-M

Youre remembering right but I was not referring directly on my "big" engine only but also with normal size. Reason is when gasget hole is so much bigger than actual need, egde of combustion comes closer to water holes. In gasget which is lineing close to cylinder will do job much better than that. That was my intention to give an idea about gasget. I have one self made dani and two originals. Making dani (only work part was ~700e). When you see/weld you can see at it's very difficult to make with bigger plug (very close to water and exhaust channels) Br Veli-Matti

Just for note at originel head gasget has ~96mm holes. (and that's one reason why it's not good for over 1bar boost) Is't that Epuised same as not available? (If yes then my 3 pcs of dani heads can be real value for sale) :-D V-M

I have used these -> http://www.amworks.com/irtokannet.htm Easy to install and woks nicely. Basically same idea as Johnny is using, originell bottom and this to top. V-M

For winter usage narrow tires are better than wide one's. So I recomend 185/65/15 or 195/60/15 V-M

In locally thery are available in Michelin brand... they are "bit" more expensive than was my set from Sweden. It was ViaNor sweden were those was coming and they delivered those closest ViaNor store (6km from my house). When I was piking them, they informed at they have also those on stock but in Michelin brand. V-M

Sounds like old days from here I remember my daddy telling at in early 70's he was driving oil truck in northern Finland (above polarcircle) and he was goin to pee outside and pee was freecing in curve And he went to check temp... -47C. Now it's not eaven going over -20C... In my army(-84) time (200km north from polarcircle) in winter was normal above -30C (we were skiing and camping on forrests in tents in those temps). Some times it did stay over 40 and it was difficult to breath when marching outside... very dry air. Also amount of snow has dropped dramatically... in 70's we did have ~1,5m snow and now hardly 30cm V-M

Swedish, Blocket V-M

I just bought set of four 185/60/390 Old Stock re-rubbered new set from Sweden. Total price including transp. 1200skr -> ~140e Just installed them on wheels yesterday. V-M

Yeah... power car and kid's, nice compination. Result can be seen. V-M

Those original injectors ones are good for 270hp, but for that you need to change many other parts. With original system you can lift boost ~0.8bar and have 190-200hp. Over that you need more hardware work. V-M

clik... http://leverdie.club.fr/index.html

Thats normal 505 evolution set without front spoiler. See for whole set -> http://www.nettiauto.com/viewVehicle.php?id_car=1424238 (my ex car) Difficult to find V-M

Euro turbos have 0 280... 200 except never with cat those have same as US ... 802? V-M

I would say at piston and rods is enough, but straithness should be checked from crank. Surely balancing crank + flywheel (+ pressure plate) gives bit more insurance. In my knowledge 19-20 is max. readings? I think formula 1 and other real race engines are 25 max. in 7500rpm its 20.4 m/s, so what I'm saying is at u can go to that 7000 rpm but not for longer periods with current (original) piston + rod weights. Moving mass is realy big on this N9T. The most heaviest parts which I have found from any gasoline engine... only diesel engine parts have been heawier. Block it self is the most thick one which I ever seen on gasoline engine... same opinion did say this engine machinist who have been borring engine blocks for 40 years. IMHO I'm not usually looking those calculated things but surely those can be have some informatic content... V-M http://www.csgnetwork.com/pistonspeedcalc.html http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mean_piston_speed

Hint: Measure/calculate piston speed in that rev and google a bit about that. XN6 have bit lighter internal parts than N9T. I think head part is not limitting if that is good condition... Liners are not worn and cam gear is in good shape etc... Bottom will do 6500 easily if parts are balanced, well it will do without also but it will not last long. 7000 is bit tought one with original parts (one piston+con.rod weights 1.5kg when fex saab piston and conrod weights only 1.2kg) IMHO V-M