V-M

I have machined both sides (head and valve) and after that done lapping for all valves. I'm sure at after 100tkm there is no coating existing anyway If there eaven existed coating. I think modern angles is round instead of 3 or 5 angles. V-M

Chain is much more reliable and longer lasting... Mercedes and BMW is gone back to chain is some engines. V-M

Yep. That's Chrysler 2L engine block. Looks like at that head is un used and eaven not drilled. V-M

Bearings are same. Drilling those con.rod ones is okay to do. Inform me also price... And I'll have a look again my storage N9T crank is not rehardened... And if it's nitrated it's recomend to use red metal (more copper) bearings and those are not available. But hardening is not realy needed... original bearings will do. V-M

Yes, at least my grinder do it. Anything can be nitrated... for cam it did cost ~80e, cost is coming from weight so crank could be bit costly. But at least my experience fir nitrated cam was bad. I only drive 200km with good oil and I was allready started to penetrate trough nitrated part (they did fix it with out cost). Crank is different story and If I remeber right 505 diesel engine cranks were nitraed. V-M

Checked... that C is cr 8 engine. sweden swich engines have W in that place. I did test nitrated cam... not working at all. It's too hard and starts to wear right away. I did discuss with cam grinders about that and he confirmed ad in rocker cams it usually dont't work. With lifter type heads it works better. V-M

Fast reply here... Sorry m8's I'm dam drunk rigth now... so I might to correct later... C is that latest one... 180hp version block. well actually no differencies anyway... thats 8:1 anyway. Lower comp rate was only for US, Swizerland and Sweden We can confirm that later... Cam... yes... that looks normal weared cam... I have those a lot. :-P (but can be fixed) Happy New Year 505 m8's! V-M

Not asked from me... but I still answer SPEC stage 3 feels ok. Was bit rough at start and was taking pumpy when releasing but now it feels like standard. It could be also at this coldness has some effect. V-M P.S Strange? In that link it shows at I have stage 2 not 3? Packet was saying3

? As I said with dani its like std cam under 4000rpm. It only breaths better over 4000rpm than std. Or did I understand u wrongly? V-M

If that's original dani and not grinded from std. Then caps are not needed. But there should be absolutely no difference of engine running fex. iddle with dani or std cam. Only difference is at it breaths better over 4000rpm. If there problems, two things comes in my mind. Assembly failure (wrong timing) or wrong grind angles. Surely this does not directly solve that adjustment prob... one thing is at that rocker holder "pipe" can be worn. And then adjustment can change when running. V-M P.S -> slash caps -> http://www.aircooled.fi/shop/index.php?productID=342 These are us made, so should be easy to find there ;-)

Exhaust is 0.30mm and intake is 0.20mm. Do u have custom cam or original? If u have custom cam u need slash caps top of valve heads, cause hit angle to rocker is too big. V-M

I would not but more than 12-13psi... with original turbo and exhaust. After that back pressure is huge and generates only heat. I have tested that and It was just dropping power after above 12psi with original setup. High psi can give peak power but that drops very fast. Adding fuel is effecting only cause more fuel is cooling abit. IMHO. And here in Finland temperature is much less than u guys. (surely not every where... u have also real winter there some places) But in summer time when this power is realy in best usage. Changing exhaust to breath more it could be ok to rise 1-2psi but then original turbo is it limit. V-M

I'm not 100% sure but in my mind syncros are not related if gearing is different? So those should be the same... I don't know... V-M

- Pistons - Head porting - injectors - turbo - some engine management system - cam - FIC with that set up or using some other brand engine directly... like Saab 2.3L 16v, Volvo 2.3L 16v, Nissan 2.0L 16v....etc... Depending what side of world u live... cause u have not put location information on your profile... Here is not many who has made 300hp from 505 N9T... I would say.. none (no proof at least yet). V-M

Only turbo change does not do the job... keep on reading forum! V-M

At least here it was 110hp mentioned. V-M

That is most common set up over here in 505:s. All taxis did have that one in 80's. And there was a lot of them on taxi usage... (of cause a lot is relative... small country) V-M

As said before, I can provide all those. Regrinded cam (dani or that other) and machined rockers or eaven new ones... V-M

I don't think at there is any differences on oil ducts... Does not make sence. V-M

At least that Chrysler 180 engine I did put in parts did have same pump as 505. You could higher pressure just adding things on that spring section. V-M

Those will take pressure off from exhaust gasget... no other purpose. Whitout those gasget will leak BIG time! V-M

I would say there is 3 main reasons for cracks, and usually they goes in 2 and 3 cyl cause they get most heat: 1. Bad cooling circulation design (effects easily if running low water) 2. Bad aluminium material (a lot of bubles and crap inside of aluminium) 3. (dam forget 3:rd one... I'll add this when I remember it ) V-M

In my calc -> 2359.66cc and comp.ratio is 8.6 And easy to feel when turbo starts do it's job V-M P.S Snow did came yesterday evening

Inspection done and approved :-) Only Oxygen level was too high (max.5) but that was easy to fix, one IC pipe was leaking. Mega installation is still waiting... I'll put info available when I start that one. But driving is nice No grip at all... not eaven 3 gear And here is no snow yet... V-M

If you will have turbo there... you don't need so much silencer as NA engine. turbo will kill 30-40% of sounds. V-M