keebs

Sorry for the delay, I ended up having to wrap the downpipe against my will. Anyway here it is installed.

Haven't been paying attention to when spool starts, but about .5 bar at 2000 and 1 bar at 2500. Needless to say spool time is a non issue, transient response is excellent, and most importantly the boost comes on smooth so it can be driven hard out of corners.

Tuning with egt is pretty straight forward. Just add timing to make the temps come down. Law of diminishing returns applies so get to the low point then take a few degrees out and you're one step closer to mbt. It gets easier with trial and error. Try to stay south of 900c when in boost and you should be fine. Did some more tuning this morning. Made 1 bar at 2700rpm so there isn't much lag.

In 2008/2009 I installed two different precision turbos on a friends supra that failed almost immediately. Neither one lasted 50 miles. After the 2nd one failed we took it to a local shop and had it checked out. It was way out of balance. Don't remember the model #s or what the final cost was, but it wasn't a fun time. I'll take some pics of it together later today. Holding up the turbo ends up being the same as holding the manifold. This one's pretty hefty, weighs in about the same as the log +/- a few pounds. Not really concerned with it needing support, the guy that made it wasn't too concerned either if that helps.

Now that's a complex question. Easy way is a dyno, the other way is trial and error. Use your best guess as to what feels faster that's about it. Got the car running today, but forgot to snap a shot of the previous map. Only tuned to .5 bar, had to add 5% more fuel in the cruising range and 2-3% up top. Egt was lower so took some timing out. Overall it runs, doesn't leak, and the turbo makes it sound like a truck. I'm happy with it.

Stewart, I should be up and running in a day or two to give some feedback. Rabin, I see no difference between a solid flange and a segmented one. Segmented would be useful for weight savings, or if you basically needed to assemble during install with slip connectors due to cramped spaces. A solid flange would dissipate more heat than segmented, so possibly less chance of warping. It's really a toss up. If you're making the flange at home on a drill press segmented would be better since a mistake wouldnt cost a whole flange. I wouldn't brace a turbo manifold unless it was stupid heavy. Think about thermodynamics and metal expansion rates. You have a 800-950c manifold at fairly uniform temps and expansion, then you have a rigid stick bolted to it that wont let the material do what it wants through heat cycles. A better solution would be a harmonic isolation bushing thats a mild durometer that doesn't impart an outside stress just absorbs vibration.

Just a few shots.

Compressor-49.5mmx69.5mm Turbine-69.5mmx61.5mm Comp housing A/R-? Turbine housing A/R-.75 divided

Can't take credit for the welds. It's being made by a local fab shop called Tempest Racing. If the car comes back tomorrow I'll post some better pics. 8.5:1 is probably the limit compression wise unless the chamber can be modified for a faster burn.

Hopefully it will make more power with less boost. I'll post an old fuel/ignition map alongside the new one for comparisons sake.

1) 7.5:1 2) 7psi base pressure, 12psi with ebc

For the time being it still has the standard cam installed, dani cam might go in later. A garrett comparison would be between a gt28rs and gtx3067 based on flow alone. The only thing I like about the EFR turbos are the compressors. Sure you might save a buck if your system is built around it, but then you're stuck with it and things marked "engineered for racing" usually mean finite lifespan.

Thanks, gotta love Tial. Didn't even consider Precision turbo, had a bad experience with them.

Borg Warner s250sx with a .75 divided turbine housing.

Meanwhile in the temple of doom... My turbo manifold is almost finished.

There's probably a friction disk in there somewhere. Give them a call if you want an in depth of the inner workings.

Cost no object you say? Like Rabin said, it's all about application. For a street car torsens are nice and maintenance free, but have some disadvantages since they cant lock. Clutch types are all around good, but may need infrequent maintenance. A company called wavetrac makes torsen style diffs that have a locking ramp so you don't lose drive on an unloaded wheel. This bridges the gap between the two styles of differential. For my money I'll take a 1.5 way clutch diff any day over a torsen.

Hit the nail on the head with that list. All that stuff can be had for just a few hundred dollars. While you're at it ohm every sensor, do thorough sweep tests on the afm and tps, ohm injector wiring all the way to the ecu, and change every vacuum hose under the hood no matter how they look.

I suggest getting a wideband and going from there.

That LED is for diagnostics/detonation warning. If it's blinking it will lead you to the problem.

Did you have the problem before the new plugs and leads? Take a look at the injector resistors, look for vacuum leaks. Shouldn't be too hard to track down. Most 505 problems can also be traced back to bad grounds.

I don't think any of this is far fetched at all. I thought for a long hard while about throwing a v8 in one of my dead 505s, so you're not the only one. For weight balance it's hard to say without scales, but the n9t is a brick that has about 4 inches of room to be moved back. The rover engine is small so get it tight to the bulkhead and balance might even improve over stock. Maybe tomorrow I'll get out and measure the n9t's length vs a chevy, and maybe even a 4.6 dohc mustang just for kicks since I doubt it would be narrow enough to fit.

Pretty cool. Are you going to do any head work or use a different cam?

Long time no see Stewart, looks like were all in the same boat concerning the weather. Motorcycles use copper donuts for the exhaust, so if you have a milling machine to groove the manifold that would be the way to go.

I don't have my manual in front of me, but all 4 injectors fire at the same time. So if one works and the others don't then it's either injector harness or injector resistors.