trymes

Yeah, there may be a crack. Funny thing is I met a fellow yesterday who used to work on one of these cars and his first question was "how many heads have you cracked?" On the other hand, this hose is really soft and weak. Time will tell. I have written this car off a few times now!

So, after flushing the coolant and fixing the bad gasket on the pressure cap, I had noticed a tiny leak at the filler cap on the radiator. So, I contacted Brian Holm, who sent me a new gasket for the filler cap. That solved the leak, but pressure will find a way out, I guess! I took the car on a reasonably long trip to Vermont, and as I started home, the coolant level light came on. I was shocked to find the car nearly out of coolant when I stopped to check. I nervously re-filled the radiator, and I eventually heard coolant spilling on the ground. Closer investigation revealed a split heater hose right by the thermostat housing. It was Sunday and a remote-ish area, but I was able to cobble together a temporary fix with a garden hose, and it actually got me home! Here's hoping I didn't do any serious damage to the car, and I suppose that this means I need to replace all of the 31 year-old heater hoses. The one that broke seems to go to the heater valve, and from there travels behind the engine to...? And where is the return line?

Certainly not a big deal, but I figured you cant fix it if you don't know it's broken!

I may be interested, and I wonder if one or more of the "Usual suspect" parts vendors might want a set or two on the shelf? Maybe, maybe not.

Correct me if I am wrong here, but the thermostat and housing are on the front of the engine where the upper radiator hose connects, no? I ask because you mention the cooling tank. It also sounds like the modifications were mostly to use the Nissan rubber ring instead of the normal gasket?

Interesting. I still need to fit the new gasket for the radiator fill cap, as that is weeping. It sounds like you needed to modify the outside diameter of the Nissan thermostat, plus make the groove around the housing thicker? In other words, your post makes it sound like the Nissan part is thicker around the edge (and slightly bigger diameter) than the original, and if you try to install it without modification, it doesn't seal properly, resulting in damage if you torque it down? I started down this road because my car is also running cool, as you had mentioned yours was. I'm sure that the prior owner in Dallas had thought that was wonderful, with the heat down there, but I'd like it to be where it ought to be! Tom

Well, to be more precise, I'd say that there is no way that restrictor will allow the PCV to bleed off all of the excessive pressure caused by blow-by that shouldn't be there to begin with! On the other hand, enlarging the orifice in the restrictor will cause too much air to enter the intake without passing the MAF, no?

I may have answered my own question: http://m.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/thermostat/failsafe-thermostat/peugeot/505/710644_0_1632?location= Now to check about the gasket. It sure *looks* pretty "standard"...aaand....here we are: http://m.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/thermostat-gasket/felpro-thermostat-gasket/peugeot/505/68355_0_15298?location=

My apologies for the dumb question, but I don't have a manual - note to self: I think there may be one on eBay. Does the N9TE use a standard thermostat available at any parts store, or is it special in some way? What temperature rating? How about the gasket? Many thanks, Tom

Yeah, I have this hooked up to the intake as it should be, and there is no restriction. positive pressure makes it out of the elbow on the valve cover. It's almost certainly blowby. Yes, I noticed oil in the hose leading to the turbo inlet, but this is pretty extreme pressure. Car drives just fine, though. Spark plug is a nice, toasty brown, just as it should be. I'll try to get something in the cylinder to see if a ring is stuck, but I don't think I am that lucky. Tom

Rabin: Thanks for that. Just as I am certain it's a broken piston and/or rings, you come along and offer hope - what a dangerous thing! I have now had suggestions of Acetone/ATF and Seafoam/STP Oil Stabilizer, and I bet I could find 1,000 other suggestions online if I looked. I'll try and do some homework, but I do have a few questions: How best to tell when the piston is at TDC? I'm used to cars where the spark plug hole is much more accessible, so a chopstick or other method makes it easy to see where the cylinder is. The fact that this car is an automatic doesn't make it easier, either. Do I need to crank the engine afterwards to shove the mixture out the plug hole/valves? Or does it just get burned up? I tried a borescope (camera), but it just wasn't able to really give a good idea of what the cylinder and piston look like. I'm sure it was user error on my part, but the angle at which the plug seems to enter the chamber doesn't seem to be helping much, either. Any thoughts you have would be great. There is definitely not any untoward noise coming from the engine, and I also realized why my oil leaks increased so much: I replaced the dipstick with no head on it with one that sealed quite well - the pressure (and with it oil) had to find another way out, and it did! Tom

Odd. I can't figure out how a blocked air filter could cause excessive crankcase pressure, but I don't doubt you. The PCV hose from the inlet to the valve cover is firmly attached, and the air filter is clean.

Thanks, Goce. I originally tested the car hot with throttle open. The reading on #2 didn't change when I re-did it with the engine cold. I don't think that this car has a PCV valve, but I would love to be mistaken. This car only has a hose from the valve cover to the turbo inlet accordion tube, as far as I know. I wouldn't be worried about the compression, as the car runs really well, and the plugs are all a nice clean biscuit color. However, the pressure in the crankcase is pushing oil out past the seals, which I cannot ignore (it's pretty bad).

Joy. It looks like a bad bore and/or rings: I put some 20w50 in cylinder 2, and she pushed up to 140.

Maybe, Rabin. I'm thinking it might also be an artifact of the crankcase pressure I'm seeing, too. I picked the Mamba over other options just because it had the most choices for rod length. Ironically, I'm almost all of the way out of adjustment on the second shortest, and the next longer is too long. The folks at Mamba have suggested possible air leaking around an O-ring, but that seems unlikely to me. I also disassembled the unit to confirm that the piston is well lubricated, and it is. Testing with an air pump shows smooth action, and no leaks, whatsoever.

So, as anyone who has been keeping score at home knows, I bought a 505 turbo recently, as a bit of lark. Its a car in great condition, but has been a challenge mechanically since I got it, and it was available at a discount due to a few issues. Since I have had the car, I have had to work on replacing the turbo actuator, and it still isn't quite right. Perhaps that's due to the univrsal actuator I bought, perhaps it's related to the subject of this thread. While working on the actuator and such, I noticed that the car is really leaking oil badly. It really became noticable when I forgot to tighten the clamps on the hose connecting the turbo's oil return line to the engine block. There was quite a lot of oil on the undercarriage, plus lots of smoke when giving the car a bit of welly (I recognized the problem and addressed it quite quickly and topped up the oil - there wasn't that much lost, but it made quite a mess). I noticed that the valve cover seemed to be leaking from both front corners, so I removed the cover and put Hylomar on the valve cover gasket, and it seemed to get a bit better, but I noticed that the LH side of the engine was dripping pretty badly today, after a short drive, so I did some cleaning of the block, pan, etc, and it looks like the leak is from the dipstick tube, where it enters the engine block. That led to my removing the oil filler cap with the engine running, which led to my noticing that there is a good bit of pressure in the crankcase, which led to an "Oh crap!" moment, which led to a compression test, which yielded these numbers (counting from 1 in the front to 4 in the back - is that the way Peugeot does it? No, it seems that Peugeot does it like the Jaguar XK, #1 is at the firewall): 130 80 130 130 These numbers led to a deep sigh and a fair amount of resignation. I don't know these cars that well, but here's my list of possible causes: Broken Ring/Piston Worn Cylinder Bore Cracked Head Bad Valve Bad Valve Adjustment ???? The only easy thing here is the adjustment, so I figure I should check it first and rule it out. Does anyone have any thoughts, commiseration, or perhaps a known-good engine somewhere in the Northeast? Tom

So, I pulled the actuator, inspected it, and swapped in a lower PSI spring to see what would happen. Basically, the behavior is the same, but now at lower ratings (builds to 8-9PSI, then drops down to 2-3). The good news is that the boost pressure doesn't creep into the danger zone now, but it means I'm running really low pressure, which doesn't lead to breathtaking performance. On a positive note, I am getting a handle on the oil leaks, but I think it may be a very short lived triumph.

Name: Peugeot 505 Turbo Category: North America Date Added: 2017-09-07 Submitter: trymes Peugeot 505 Turbo

If I click into the vehicle registry and try to browse North America to see if my car is already in there, I cannot browse to page #2 or #3, as I receive an error: This seems to be because the navigation buttons at the top link to a bad URL: http://www.505turbo.com/forum/app=collections&module=collections&controller=browse&id=1?page=2 If I modify the URL for page #1 but adding "?page=2" to the end, it works fine. http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/garage/category/1-north-america/?page=2

As far as I can tell, these gaskets are NLA/Extinct. Can this be true? I would have thought that, between the US, Canada, France, and Argentina, they ought to be available somewhere. Tom

Here's a photo of the transmission sensor and wire (and the utterly hammered steering rack boots!). The "sensor" with silicone in it (presumably to stop a leak) is right in the middle of the photo, right below the dangling steering rack gaiter and in front of the pan. You can see the wire coiled up tot he right of the dipstick tube, direclty below the plastic grate in the bell housing. PS: I have noticed that one receives the unhelpful error "There was an error uploading this image" if you try to upload an image that is larger than, say, 1.75 MB. If you resize the photo to be smaller it will work. Is there an option in the forum software that could be enabled to automatically resize any photos larger than the maximum? If not, perhaps a more helpful message about the fact that the file is too large (as one receives when uploading a profile picture > 2MB).

My last message crossed in the mail with SRDT's. I was poking about on eBay and noticed that the part for an '02-'07 Jeep Liberty might fit. I'm guessing a flat piece of aluminum with a hole drilled in the right place might work, too.

Thanks for that photo. I may be mistaken, but the 505, at least mine, has a small bracket that wedges against a "foot" on the bottom of the battery to hold it in place from the bottom; there is nothing holding it down from the top (though I may be wrong about that).

Thanks, Rabin. I'm excited to play with it, though my wife and I are still trying to make up our minds if it will stay or be moved along to a new owner. It's a really well cared-for car that has some deferred maintenance issues, it seems. The leather is in good shape, it looks nice, and it drives well. Photos are usually something I am better with, but it's so stinking oily up under there that I haven't really wanted to handle the phone with greasy gloves. Next up I need to try to reset the TPS and adjust the idle speed, but I am used to SU carburetors and this non-modern injection system is a bit of an unknown to me.