trymes

So, I replaced my oil pressure switch, much later than I should have, so I know will know if I experience a catastrophic loss of oil pressure, which is safe to say is a Good Thing®. This now means that the lamp test function of the cluster is working again, with the oil pressure, STOP, High temp, and Oil-level gauge function lighting up as they should. WOO HOO! However, since I changed the switch, now I have this weird behavior: Turn key on, then turn key off: detonation Sensor remains lit dimly. Turn key on, start engine, turn key off: detonation sensor turns off completely, as it should. Can anyone explain why I'm seeing this? Perhaps an issue in the cluster? I included a demonstration in this video:

I have finally replaced the oil pressure switch on my 505 Turbo, and now the Oil Level gauge lights up, along with the oil pressure, high temp, and STOP lamps in the cluster prior to starting the engine. That's all normal, but the oil level is not accurate, as the gauge just sits at the bottom of the range, which doesn't match the dipstick. This begs the question: How can I check the wiring and the sensor to see if they are working properly? I don't want to order up a sensor and gasket, just to find out that the problem lies elsewhere.

Thanks, Jerome. I had reached out via email and had an issue teaching that address. I did find one from Brian H, and now my head has cracked...

I am definitely interested in this topic, as I am 99% certain that my car’s head has given up the ghost. Tom

Ok, but...which one is the oil pressure sensor? I know the oil level sensor is in the pan on the left of the engine, below the oil filter, but I can’t say which is the oil pressure sensor.

So, like most cars, the Peugeot is supposed to illuminate various warning lights in the cluster when you first turn the key on, but before you start the engine so you can confirm that the bulb is good and know that it will work if something goes wrong. In addition, the oil temp gauge is supposed to show the oil level when the key is on and the engine is not running. However, on my car, the only lights that are illuminating before starting the engine are the battery light, the yellow "knock" LED, and the "BRAKE" light. The oil level function isn't working, either. However, I have noticed that many of these lights do, in fact, work when the car is running. The low coolant light works, the fuel reserve light works, and the trans temp light works for certain, and I suspect that others are fine, too. What would cause these lights to work when the car is running, but not illuminate prior to startup as they should?

Another item for the archives, if anyone is looking for it. The switch at the front of the transmission that threads into the banjo connector headed in from (or out to) the transmission cooler is an oil temperature switch, part #1131.11 - "Switch, N9T transmission temperature". It lights an orange light above the fuel gauge if the temperature of the ATF is too high (over 140, I think). I also found this thanks to Rob Courter @ Javel in Dallas. Pictures of the gauge, the old, broken, part and of the new replacement.

Just adding some additional details. I found a Battery Hold Down Clamp via Facebook from Rob Courter at Javel, Inc. in Dallas. Part #5615.21. Here's a photo:

Yes, it was the rheostat that came apart. It’s a maze of traces on a PCB that lifted off of the board and got tangled, then broke. There’s no fixing it from what I see. Tom

I’m guessing that you haven’t seen the PCB...?

Thanks, Rabin. The fuel sender wasn’t rusty at all, but the traces had lifted from the printed circuit board, and the float got tangled up in them, so it’s shot. I could probably swap in a good PCB, if I had one. Tom

So, my fuel gauge wouldn’t go over 1/3 tank, so I pulled the sender (side note: I need a fuel gauge sender - do you have one?). To do this, I had to remove the rear seat, the CHMSL, and the rear speakers, along with the parcel shelf. While I had the speakers out, I popped the covers off and noticed that they were in pretty rough shape. $37.00 and a little solder later, and I have two new speakers sounding pretty good. This leaves me thinking I should inspect and likely replace the front speakers as well, but I can’t figure out how to get the kick panels off. Is there an easy way? Tom

I am looking for a sunroof seal, as mine whistles at speed. I also noticed that there is no rubber seal between the power antenna on my car and the fender, so I figured I ask to see if that’s something anyone has available. Many thanks, Tom

I am looking for a fuel gauge sender for my ‘86 505. This is the later-style with a three prong connector at the top. I’d be happy with an earlier style, too, but prefer the later. This is Peugeot part #1527.43. Thank you, Tom

Nina, you probably realized this already, but that post was from over three years ago.

Jerome, I am looking for a fuel gauge sender, but you e-mail bounced back as invalid. Is this something that you have? Tom

I’m looking for a fuel gauge sender for my ‘86 turbo. Is that something you could pull from the parts car? Never Mind, I found one!

My car has a pair of Bosch Pilot lights, and they look the part, if you ask me. The former owner sourced a similar light off of a Nissan as a spare, and it has part number "LE 1473 A" and "LE 1478 A" on it, if that helps. Truth be told, I think that the only difference between the lights on the car and the Nissan light is that the Nissan light has "Nissan" on the cover instead of "Bosch Pilot". Tom

Generally, you can hear the turbo spool when driving. It sounds like a whoosh/whistle. The wastegate would be located on the turbo itself, and to confirm it is moving you would remove the actuator arm and twist it to make sure it isn't stuck. Then you would want to manually apply air to the actuator to make sure that the diaphragm isn't torn. Having said that, if you have to ask, this might be a bit much. How mechanically inclined are you?

The blue car looks like a fright pig, and the white car at Brian's looks rough, too. Brian has a V6 manual transmission car that would be the one to go for if you buy one from him. Are you looking for a fun car to drive in the summer and store in the winters, or a car that you can flog through the salt year-round? Also, what kind of budget are you working with? Lastly, where are you located? PS: Brian always says "The head is probably cracked, the pistons are probably shot" if you mention a gas-turbo to him.

Another question would be if there is a break in price if more than x sets are ordered. i.e.: If you find four other people on this site to commit to purchasing a kit, it might result in lower costs. PS: Are those Canadian Dollars? Let's make sure that we're all using the same yardstick!

If memory serves, I remember something about the rings being a non-standard size? Have you specified a piston size that (with boring) would eliminate that problem and allow the use of cheaper off-the-shelf rings?

Never mind! I found the source of the problem: the inlet accordion hose split.

So, I noticed recently that I am sometimes getting some black/grey smoke at startup (not blue). Then, last night and this morning, when I started the car, it ran like a bag of turds until it warmed up. It would start, then die unless I revved the engine up to 2000 RPM or so. If I put the car in gear it will stall when it is really cold (just started). It gets progressively better until the car is warm, when it seems to be more or less normal-ish. It isn't cold here, maybe 60 F (16 C). The prior owner mentioned having swapped the cold-start injector with a "good" used one. Is there a good place to start testing this?

Makes sense. Shouldn't the expansion tank pressure cap relieve the pressure before a hose splits or the radiator tank cracks (assuming the hose is in good condition)?