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Peder

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  1. Hello, nice car with some nice modifications! I have put a turbo engine in my 504, slighty modified, and i think i will use megasquirt too, could i get your msq-file? I will though use distributor ignition, and only two triggerpoints, but otherwise the same. Holy_man(a)rocketmail.com //Peder Sweden
  2. Yes, i use the original impeller, but that one is used as a part of the seal in the original pump, and on the new one the seal is completely separate. Thats why the new seal is a bit longer. But thats no problem, i just shorten the impeller a bit with a lathe. Thinkin of finding a new pulley that fits the hub that came on the donating pump, with three screws. Might be trouble finding a pulley with the correct diameter, and the right offset(15-25mm, depending on were i place the hub on the axle). Otherwise i will just take a random pulley and machine a new center. Will keep you updated on what i find.
  3. Well as most of you have read in the matra-forum, you can rebuild the pump yourself! I have know tried it on a peugeot pump, I bought a qcp 977 pump, made for misc. Peugeots and talbots, and pressed the bearing and seals out. The good news is that it has the correct diameter of the bearing and axle, end of good news... If you want to use it with the original mag.clutch, you cant use this bearing. The axle is about 20mm shorter than the original, and the bearing and seal total length is about 10mm shorter, and the seal-part sticks out to much on the inside of the pump, so you cant get the impeller close enough to the housing. But for me it will work fine though, i have the engine in a 504, and the N9T is longer than the xn1-engine. so with this rebuild i can shorten the whole pump housing 10mm, and use a diferent beltdrive. And shorten the impeller about 4-5mm so that it will get the right clearance to the housing. So the rebuild will be functional, but it is not a plug-and-play operation.
  4. Hmm, it. Seems like i have missplaced the camchaincover also... I have too many places to Put stuff... Damn it!
  5. Ok, Will try that. i dont, speak french and politecnic Will not answer My english e-mail...
  6. In need of a CAM for a 505 turbo. Preferably a Dani or a regrinded, but stock Will do just fine also. It would be great if its found in the nothern parts of Europe (i live in sweden), but not a must. //Peder
  7. Well the ones fitted on standard engines usually squirt oil all the time, but they are fitted with a valve that opens above a certain oilpressure so it does´nt squirt during cranking and/or on idle (sometimes you get quite low pressure, when the engines really warm, on idle.). You need it the most on max torque rpm(when the combustion temp is high, and the BMEP is the highest), and that is usually quite high rpm´s. I cant see any disadvantages with the setup if its done right(but you must check the entire oilsystem so that it is ok, that there is enough oilpressure in the engine to handle it!), we are not talking about very large amounts of oil here, so a mechanical problem is not likely to occur. I know people who have done it on Porsche engines with great results, so it works. But if its necessary? Hmmm, in most cases; No. But when you push your engine to the the limit; Yes, it does the trick. //Peder
  8. Peder

    VEMS

    Not yet, but with a little luck this summer... //Peder
  9. the bearings in the standard turbo is the simplest there is for turbos, an open sliding bearing without fixing. That type of bearings are not suitable for boost above 1,2bar! Sure you can have spikes above, and the turbo might hold also with constant boost above that, but its not designed for it! There are a few mods one can do; You can screw the bearing to the housing, and thereby decreasing the axial play and wearing. And then there are 360deg. bearings, they have bearing surface around, more surface=less wearing. And then there are the japanese hotrodding favourite; Ceramic ballbearings, with obvious advantages, though they tend to wear out faster, and they are damn expensive... //Peder
  10. Nice, thanks. But after a little research i found another pump, equal to the Walbro, at nice price! Called "Henko", here is a swedish link:www.jleracing.se. (sorry Americans...) Seems to work good! //Peder
  11. Interesting, i thought the walbro was the same size as the inline pump!
  12. Lifting an old topic here... Has anyone found someone who sells urethane bushes for the front suspension for the 505T? Or do i have to make molds and do them myself? //Peder
  13. Why, in case of if the engine gets thirsty of course! Will tell my plans later, but not yet... //Peder
  14. Hi, does anybody know the flow of the in-tank pump of a 505T? Going to fit a Bosch -044 hipresssure pump, or two smaller pumps, and want to know if the in-tank pump can deliever enough fuel! //Peder
  15. Like the topic, i need the valve sizes... //Peder
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