Peder

Hello, nice car with some nice modifications! I have put a turbo engine in my 504, slighty modified, and i think i will use megasquirt too, could i get your msq-file? I will though use distributor ignition, and only two triggerpoints, but otherwise the same. Holy_man(a)rocketmail.com //Peder Sweden

Yes, i use the original impeller, but that one is used as a part of the seal in the original pump, and on the new one the seal is completely separate. Thats why the new seal is a bit longer. But thats no problem, i just shorten the impeller a bit with a lathe. Thinkin of finding a new pulley that fits the hub that came on the donating pump, with three screws. Might be trouble finding a pulley with the correct diameter, and the right offset(15-25mm, depending on were i place the hub on the axle). Otherwise i will just take a random pulley and machine a new center. Will keep you updated on what i find.

Well as most of you have read in the matra-forum, you can rebuild the pump yourself! I have know tried it on a peugeot pump, I bought a qcp 977 pump, made for misc. Peugeots and talbots, and pressed the bearing and seals out. The good news is that it has the correct diameter of the bearing and axle, end of good news... If you want to use it with the original mag.clutch, you cant use this bearing. The axle is about 20mm shorter than the original, and the bearing and seal total length is about 10mm shorter, and the seal-part sticks out to much on the inside of the pump, so you cant get the impeller close enough to the housing. But for me it will work fine though, i have the engine in a 504, and the N9T is longer than the xn1-engine. so with this rebuild i can shorten the whole pump housing 10mm, and use a diferent beltdrive. And shorten the impeller about 4-5mm so that it will get the right clearance to the housing. So the rebuild will be functional, but it is not a plug-and-play operation.

Hmm, it. Seems like i have missplaced the camchaincover also... I have too many places to Put stuff... Damn it!

Ok, Will try that. i dont, speak french and politecnic Will not answer My english e-mail...

In need of a CAM for a 505 turbo. Preferably a Dani or a regrinded, but stock Will do just fine also. It would be great if its found in the nothern parts of Europe (i live in sweden), but not a must. //Peder

Well the ones fitted on standard engines usually squirt oil all the time, but they are fitted with a valve that opens above a certain oilpressure so it does´nt squirt during cranking and/or on idle (sometimes you get quite low pressure, when the engines really warm, on idle.). You need it the most on max torque rpm(when the combustion temp is high, and the BMEP is the highest), and that is usually quite high rpm´s. I cant see any disadvantages with the setup if its done right(but you must check the entire oilsystem so that it is ok, that there is enough oilpressure in the engine to handle it!), we are not talking about very large amounts of oil here, so a mechanical problem is not likely to occur. I know people who have done it on Porsche engines with great results, so it works. But if its necessary? Hmmm, in most cases; No. But when you push your engine to the the limit; Yes, it does the trick. //Peder

Not yet, but with a little luck this summer... //Peder

the bearings in the standard turbo is the simplest there is for turbos, an open sliding bearing without fixing. That type of bearings are not suitable for boost above 1,2bar! Sure you can have spikes above, and the turbo might hold also with constant boost above that, but its not designed for it! There are a few mods one can do; You can screw the bearing to the housing, and thereby decreasing the axial play and wearing. And then there are 360deg. bearings, they have bearing surface around, more surface=less wearing. And then there are the japanese hotrodding favourite; Ceramic ballbearings, with obvious advantages, though they tend to wear out faster, and they are damn expensive... //Peder

Nice, thanks. But after a little research i found another pump, equal to the Walbro, at nice price! Called "Henko", here is a swedish link:www.jleracing.se. (sorry Americans...) Seems to work good! //Peder

Interesting, i thought the walbro was the same size as the inline pump!

Lifting an old topic here... Has anyone found someone who sells urethane bushes for the front suspension for the 505T? Or do i have to make molds and do them myself? //Peder

Why, in case of if the engine gets thirsty of course! Will tell my plans later, but not yet... //Peder

Hi, does anybody know the flow of the in-tank pump of a 505T? Going to fit a Bosch -044 hipresssure pump, or two smaller pumps, and want to know if the in-tank pump can deliever enough fuel! //Peder

Like the topic, i need the valve sizes... //Peder

Hahahahaha, jag måste ha varit trött igår, för jag kom inte ens ihåg va det hette på svenska! Det heter för i h*****e samma sak Tack iallafall. //Peder

Hi my enginge is already assembled and i need the diameter of intake runners (inside) and the diameter of the flap in the intake (cant remember the english word for it...). //Peder

I would guess that the grinding price depends on if they have a model to grind after, just as V-M says! Talked to another dude who said that it cost about 1200sek at enem! I would really prefer to get a straight answer from enem, but they are so big that they probably dont care about us small time tuners... //Peder

Im from Gotland. Not too many grinders here in sweden that knows how to grind turbocams, i have talked to a few but they didnt want to do it. Think the shipping to Finland comes to about 300sek (cant remember how much a cam weighs). I will search around some more after grinders, but i think Finland is a good option. //Peder

Johnny, i want a cam regrinded too, maybe we can kill two birds with one stone and do it together? We might get it cheaper then! Think Enem are so damn expensive, last time i talked to them they wanted 275Euros And that was a few years ago! Or perhaps V-M can help us?! Cant cost that much to send a cam to Finland and back! //Peder

I understand that i must be pounds, but it seems strange if they were to use inches in the case of measuring spring tension fully open at 1,1inch (one must allways measure at the true liftheight), but it also seems strange that the coils are binding already before maximum lift?! //Peder

Thanks, are the data in pounds and inches or kg and cm? //Peder

Hi, does anyone have any data on the valvesprings tension? If one can increase the rpm-limit to about 6,5k rpm without problem. What about the cam, how does it react on higher rpm:s? Would like to have the power/torquecurve moved up a bit, (gonna use a pretty large turbo) hows the Danicams in that rpmrange? Or is it someone else who has a better cam? Would like to get hold of a good cam, someone here who knows where(I think Poli are quite expensive...)? //Peder

I´m gonna put this management system on mu N9t-engine, though in a 504... I´ve researched this system alot, and checked with a lot of diferent people who drive with, and my conclussion out of that is that this waaaaayyyy better then haltech, nira and most of the other comercial brands! The pros are many, the cons are not so many... Though is a little bit trick to set up and tune, but i think its hard to make a system, as as advanced as this, easy to set up! I mean you can use every type of sensor you like, every type of idlecontrol you like, you got WBO2-closed loop, VE-learn etc. etc. Things you dont get if you dont want to spend a fortune... Man i almost sound like a sailsman... But i must say im impressed with this system. //Peder

Just like the title; How much power/torque can the 505T manual gearbox cope with? What i´ve heard its specified to handle a max of just above 300nm, but how is the real world? Has anyone here broke a gearbox due to to much power? Too rough handling? In short, is i wort using with a hi-perf. N9T-engine? //Peder