tulaweb

I got the kit from WH a year or so ago and as Jeff states it is a quick fix. I recommend removing the housing from the car. You might be able to do it in the car but I think the overall effort will be less to take it out, replace the diaphragm and if needed the filter, and then put the assembly back in.

My recent travels in Peugeotland, since I wrote the above history, are documented in various threads here but I thought a little summary to bring this story up to date here was in order. Late last summer I drove into a flooded street, sucked water into the intake and hydrolocked the engine on the 1985 505. Removal of the injectors did not release the lock. I still don’t know exactly what bent but even with the head off, the crank will not budge. Reading my distress call, Joe (JunktionFET) offered to sell me his 505STI, for use as an engine donor. Once I determined that my engine was not going to be reasonably repairable, I took him up on his offer and in mid September I took the bus down to Raleigh NC and drove his car back to New Jersey. The original plan was to immediately swap engines but, once I got back, I decided to drive Joe’s car for the winter and let it’s already rusty body take the road salt. About a month after I got the car from Joe, my wife, our cat and I evacuated from hurricane Sandy, in the 505 I got from Joe, after pushing the engineless one to the highest ground I could get it to. The water came just about up to the bottom of the doors on the car left behind but, other than damp carpeting, it made out OK. I’m now just about ready for the engine swap, so I can go back to daily driving the 505 that was originally my mother’s.

Last summer I got a 3M headlight restoration kit with the main intention of doing the headlights on my wife's Honda which were very cloudy. I figured it might also be useful on the Peugeot tail lights and maybe on the plastic surround of the headlights, but more pressing things came up and I never got around to it. Sunday I was tasked to shampoo the upholstery in the Honda, and my wife asked if I could do the headlights as well, so I got out the kit and gave it a shot. I've got to earn my Peugeot work time. The first headlight took me about 45 minutes. The second one took somewhat less, and I think they came out great, if I do say so myself. I'm not sure these Pictures do it justice, either as to how bad it was, or how good it came out, but my wife is ecstatic about it. Before ___________________________________ After

Me Too!

Well at least you're half way there.

I think this is the point we are both making. The pump will need to be resealed and that sounds like a very reasonable price, but I have my doubts that the pump seals are what's causing it not to start, and I'd want to know what is causing that before plunking down over $500. Certainly if the pump is bad enough, the engine won't run, but it's been my experience that it will leak like a sieve long before it will stop the engine from running. I think I'd do a compression test next.

Opps! didn't see that. Anyway you want to use whatever method you can to make sure the IP is sucking fuel not air.

On my 1985s it's a rubber/plastic button on top of the housing. I remember it being a lever on some of my earlier Peugeot diesels but I can't remember for sure how much earlier so I'm not sure exactly what your's looks like. There is some kind of pump mechanisim attached to the top of the fuel filter housing (asuming it's still original).

First thing I would try to do would be to prime the fuel system. Loosen the bleed on the filter housing output and pump the priming pump. See if it spits out fuel. If the diaphragm in the priming pump is leaking, that is probably why it won't start. If the priming pump is working, then getting the injector pump primed again will likely get it going, so you can drive it home. The other thing that could cause it not to run is the fuel shutoff solenoid. If the glow plugs, or their control relay, are bad it won't start real easy but in resonably warm weather you should be able to start it. Assuming the battery and starter motor are doing their thing, I'd be surprised if one of the above doesn't get it running.

One thing I hadn't thought about was that the bumper mounts are on an angle so I had to use a stack of 5 or 6 washers as a spacer on the two outer bolts on each side. That piece of steal certainly wasn't going to conform.

Well first I have to take this one a couple of miles. Then after the engine is moved over from the grey car, I'll take the grey one about 25 miles to where I can dissemble it at my leisure. I forget exactly where but someplace on these forums I had some discussions about how to attach a tow bar last year. I think Rabin and Bryan Cohn offered me advice at that time. This is what I finally came up with.

So now that spring has sprung, it's time to swap that engine. In order to move the blue car before it gets it's engine and the grey car after it looses its. I fabricated a steel beam in place of the bumper to attach the tow bar to.

Is the cost of rebuilding the injector pump what's causing the sticker shock or does it need additional repairs? As I said before I have my doubts about that being the cause of it not starting, but none the less it needs to be done. If that is all it needs the car is unquestionably worth doing it, but with 300K miles on it, there are other things that could need doing and run up the bill quite a bit.

Bill, So how did you make out? Did you make an offer?

I'm sure you do need the IP resealed but I wouldn't count on that being the cause of it not starting. It makes a mess for a long time before it leaks so badly that the car doesn't run. If you can prime it and get it running and it runs OK but after sitting for a day or two it won't start, that is likely to be the pump seals. If it's the priming pump diaphragm, that's like a couple of bucks for the part, and that is more likely to cause a sudden failure. I'm not a good one to give price advice. I've seen ones in really good condition go for $4,000 - $6,000. I recently bought a 505 TD for $500 with the engine in very good condition but a badly rusted body. So you should probably budget $1,000 for the injector pump and then figure out what else you're going to need to spend on it.

Oh and as far as it failing to start, other than dead batteries and extreme cold weather just about the only thing that has caused my various Peugeot Diesels to fail to start has been air getting into the fuel system. It is possible if the injector pump is leaking badly for it to loose it's prime and fail to work. I have also had the diaphragm in the priming pump on top of the fuel filter fail. When that happens you will just suck air and the car will not run. I haven't personally had the fuel supply lines leak air but that can happen. Do all the idiot lights come on when you turn the key? I did have a corroded electrical connection cause a no start once. See: http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/2339-1985-td-sedan/?p=16352

Bill, Wellcome to the forum. Where are you located? Rabin recently had his pump done by Jeremy see: http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/2258-diesel-parts-suppliers-and-repair-facilities/?p=18025 Marc Maksimow mentioned on the facebook group that Ukit, in El Monte CA, just resealed his IP. I'm dealing with that issue now as well. Injector Pumps made before the introduction of ultra low sulfur diesel fuel have seals that shrink with the ULS fuel that is universally available now. Once they are resealed, the new seals are made to go with ULS diesel and that will not be a problem any more. The obvious things to look at for any older car apply here like rust and fluid leaks. These engines tend to blow head gaskets and crack heads so a compression test would be a good thing to do. Are you able to do your own work on it? Depending on your location, you are likely to find a shortage of mechanics willing and able to do the work for you. For the most part you won't walk into your local auto parts store and get parts for it, but with a little persistence most things can be found.

I made a quick (well it took a while so not so quick) ghetto fix to the rear suspension arm. I just need it to hold together for another week or two till I'm ready to swap engines. I took a steel strap and wrapped it around the stub at the front pivot point of the arm which had separated from the rest. I riveted it to the stub, then placed it back in position and riveted the strap to the top and bottom of the suspension arm. I'm still debating what to do about the leaky injector pump. I could take the pump from the blue car, which also leaks but not as baddy, and get it resealed then replace the one in the grey car with it, at the time of the engine swap I could put the pump from the blue car in the grey car, or on it's engine, living with it's leak for the time being while sending the pump from the grey one out for reseal I could send out the pump from the grey car while switching engines and just wait without a car till it comes back. The engine and pump on the grey car has a lot less miles on it so I'm inclined to try and wind up with that one.

On second thought I'm not so sure about that part # but I still bet I bet Brian Holm and/or Madhu should have them. BTW - Welcome to the Forum.

I think that would be part # 1508.67. I bet Brian Holm and/or Madhu should have them, used if not new.

I don't know, the thought of deleting it has crossed my mind more than once.

We've had a couple of us document our trips to pick up cars and bring them back. Last summer I drove into a flooded road and hydrolocked the engine on my 505 TD. One of the members here offered to sell me his car, same year same engine, with a ratty body but a good engine for $500. He was in Raleigh NC and I'm in NJ. I thought about flying down but I decided that I could bring a lot more tools and stuff if I took the bus so that's what I did. You can see the trip documented here: http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/2370-road-trip-to-bring-joes-car-back-to-nj/ I think all of us on here feel like we know each other, even if we've never met in person, so I think we would all feel good about trusting each other, unlike buying from a stranger. It certainly never crossed my mind that I would get anything less than was promised, and I didn't. Of course a $500 car in drivable condition doesn't give much room for expecting too much.

Remove as in close up the hole so no more sunroof, or remove as in take it apart to repair it?

Welcome and sorry you got off on a bad start with your Peugeot. A high percentage of the problems with these cars can be traced to bad grounds. There are ground blocks at the four corners of the car and I would clean each of those up early in the process of diagnosing things. The blower motor is located in the engine compartment on the firewall on the passenger side. Putting power directly to that will tell you if it works. There is a circuit board with a relay that sometimes fails up high on the right rear engine compartment. There is also a rheostat in the dash attached to the fan speed control. Oh and of course check the fuse. What year is your car? All my 505 experience is with Diesels so I'll leave others to advise on the fuel pump issues.

Reminds me of me under my dash: