webmaster

Another option would be to see if any other cars that use the same Bosch AFM style have an airbox that could be modified to fit. (Volvo? Eagle Premier?) I'd prefer a proper air box as the engine can then bring in cooler air (that's the snorkel intake you described as under the car) - an open air element tends to suck in under hood air. Since you're after maximum performance - doing a proper cold air intake would have the most benefits. Rabin

Negative experience? Under dash fire in a friends car - PO had installed a car starter with one and the source of the fire was one of those connectors. When they "bite" into the wire you're splicing into they actually cut the copper strands in the wire, and when there is a large draw there can be significant heat build up. Using them under the car or in any exposed area also means the connector is open to corrosion as it's not sealed. Whenever I see them I instantly think "HACK job" - and I immediately replace them. Proper sealed crimp connections, or well done soldered and heat shrunk wire connections are the only way I join wires. In your case there won't be a risk of fire - but that exposed connection / splice will just be asking for failure later. Rabin

I knew - and Dreamhost admits their backups are not to be trusted. I've been researching the best way to get an automated incremental back up happening, but still working on it. I've got a windows home server I could use for back ups, but not a lot of experience with Linux... Funny enough - We just had our Windows laptops replaces with Red Hat Open Client Enterprise - so just starting to build my Linux skill set. I hope to fix an an old laptop so I can install Xubuntu on it to get a bit more familiar and then see what I can do about backups. I found some decent articles on how to set up the backups I wanted - but they were all for Linux. If I get the laptop set up it can become my website admin box and house the site backups as well. If you have any suggestions for how you deal with backups I'd be most interested to hear how you do it. Rabin

Hi guys, The site was down since the 16th and just came back up. Sadly the restore somehow triggered the old malicious redirect code and the site was blacklisted again. Dreamhost was at first less than communicative and I was getting pretty upset - but today I got a lot of great helpful e-mails and support for identifying what needed to get done and how to do it. Quite impressed with them now even though it took 3 days to have the restore done. I hope to get the majority of the clean up done this weekend, but I will also be trying to implement a donation post or button to try and build a maintenance budget for keeping the site in good shape as well as developing more content. Webmaster

Issue resolved... No idea why it stopped to begin with, but DH confirmed their anti-spam measures were NOT the issue. (Yeah right I thought!). IPB support checked the logs and discovered a extra SPACE in the address of the mail server. Yup - and extra space... Re-entered the address and it worked. Added a space just to see and it didn't work - removed the space and it worked. YES - I had to make sure... Good news is e-mail notifications are functioning again. Bad news is that my head hurts from slamming it on my desk. Webmaster

Just wanted to let you guys know that I found out the forum was no longer e-mailing notifications out. Just working on fixing it, so in the meantime you'll need to check the forum manually for responses. Webmaster

I've done some checking by googling the info Bobby sent me and it looks like this is quite a common problem, but is most likely occurring from something on the users computer. I have used malwarebytes myself to clean my own computers, so I would recommend it to anyone wanting to ensure their computer is clean. Malwarebytes download link Webmaster

I've done some checking by googling the info Bobby sent me and it looks like this is quite a common problem, but is most likely occurring from something on the users computer. I have used malwarebytes myself to clean my own computers, so I would recommend it to anyone wanting to ensure their computer is clean. Malwarebytes download link Rabin

Steps from the European manual: REFILLING 1. Hang the expansion vessel (overflow bottle) as high as possible under the bonnet. 2. Remove the bleed screw 3. Fill through the radiator until the coolant runs through the bleed screw orifice. 4. Refit and tighten the bleed screw 5. Continue filling through the expansion vessel until coolant is level with the filler orifice 6. Refit the cap 7. Continue filling to bring the level in the expansion vessel between 30 and 40 mm (1 and 1,5 in) above the MAXI mark 8. Refit the expansion vessel cap (tighten with slip joint pliers). IMPORTANT - Do not run the engine with the bleed screw or cap open. 9. Warm the engine and wait 5 minutes after the first fan operation. 10. Accelerate several times to low speed to aid bleeding. 11. Stop the engine. NOTE - If, after running, the level in the expansion vessel rises abnormally (up to 3 cm (1 in) below the top of the vessel) check the system for air locks and repeat the bleeding procedure. After complete cooling: - the level in the expansion vessel should be near the MAXI mark. - a level slightly above the MAXI mark is normal. - top up to the MAXI mark if necessary. Steps from the US manual: REFILLING: System capacity: 9.5 liters +- 0.5 liters, (2.5 U.S. gals. +- 0.13 ) 1. Suspend the jar as high as possible onto the hood. 2. Place the temperature control lever on the high side (red mark). 3. Remove the thermocontact (see http://www.turbo505.com/my_87/components/water_tank_sending_units_refurbished.jpg) 4. Fill the radiator until the coolant runs out through the thermocontact opening. 5. Reinstall the thermocontact. 6. Continue filling the radiator through the expansion jar until the level stabilizes flush with the filler neck of the radiator. 7. Reinstall the radiator filler cap. 8. Continue to fill the system until the expansion jar reaches 30 to 40mm above the MAXI reference mark. 9. Reinstall the expansion jar cap. BLEEDING Make sure: -that all drain plugs are in place and properly tightened -the thermocontact is properly tightened. IMPORTANT - DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE WITH THE THERMOCONTACT OR DRAIN PLUGS REMOVED 10. Warm the engine, and wait 5 minutes after first engagement of the declutchable fan. 11. Rev up engine a few times to moderate rpm to facilitate bleeding the cooling system. 12. Stop the engine (after return to idle). 13. Reinstall the expansion jar in its support. After a total cool down: - the level in the expansion jar must be close to the MAXI mark, - a slight overrun of the MAXI mark is normal, - if necessary, top up the level up to the MAXI mark if it is needed. I guess the "bleed screw" in the EU version is just a screw in plug that occupies the same orifice that the 60 degree thermocontact uses on the LU cars. Good luck, K o l l

Hi everyone, Unfortunately the site was again compromised with a malicious redirect when people were trying to get to our site. In order to temporarily resolve the issue we decided to redirect all hits to 505turbo.com to the forum. Once we able to migrate the main site content to a new secure format, it will be made available again. Apologies in advance for the temporary inaccessibility to the main site's content, but I hope to have the site migration done ASAP. There's still a wealth of info on the forum site itself, so if you have any questions feel free to post them. Thanks, Webmaster

Looks good! One tip though - you should attach small pics - like 800x600 small and they'll be much easier to view. Or post them to a photo gallery and imbed them. Rabin

Excellent idea - welcome to the new legal section. Rabin

COOL!! So how is tire clearances? Still think you can run standard Vette tire sizes front and rear? How does the car handle ruts and stuff - any tendency for it to want to follow highway grooves and stuff or does it track nice? More pics and vids would be awesome if you could, especially some close ups of the front with the wheels at full lock would be awesome. So many questions... lol Rabin

Actually - it just occured to me that the tie rod end mod you did would be a great way to extend the inner tie rod sleaves of the older shorter inner tie rods to fit the ABS cars... The longer inner ABS tie rods seem to be NLA, so using the shorter style with the threaded rod and a new tie rod would be an easy mod. So what tie rod is it that you're using? I assume it's got the same thread pitch and size as the Peugeot tie rods.... Rabin

Holy cow man - I didn't stand a chance in catching you! lol Car looks AMAZING! You'll know right away if you need to run the Camaro brake booster and master, and it might be a decent mod if that's the case. Only issue I could see is maybe needed a brake bias for the rear if you do the Camaro master. Hopefully there's enough space. I'm also curious what you figure you can get for rubber on that set up as it sits. Tires on it are definitely on the safe side and it looks like you've got a ton of clearance. Can't wait for the ride report too! You've upped the contact patch in a huge way so the car should stick something wicked. Rabin

Too bad time wasn't on your side for getting that sucker together to run with VEMS for Mt Washington. Best to run a tried and true set up, but had time allowed I'm certain VEMS would allow that engine to make crazy HP with wicked response. So whatcha gonna do with the ITB's? Rabin

Yup - the leak down of the parking brake is why I didn't want to use them. I can't see it happening if everything is good - but it just takes on seal on one piston to pop and the car's rolling away. Once I sort out the current set up - the uprade to a proper BMW parking brake will be cake. There's a LOT of commonalities with the BMW - hell - even the rear bearing ID's are the same. So you could do a lot more of an upgrade if needed. I've done enough already though - just need to prove and sort it out before I move onto anything else. I'll try to get you some pics of my rear hubs. Quite a bit more machining to do as mine were basically changed to mirror BMW rear hubs - so they're shaped to accept the BMW disk over the studs, and a center piece was press fit in for the disk and wheel centers. It's pretty damn cool if I don't say so myself. Biggest hurdle now is just getting my garage cleaned up. 16x24 only, and it was PACKED with just too much stuff, I couldn't see the concrete and it was hard to even walk around. So I've purged everything not related to Peugeot's or the two motorbikes I've got. Once the two motorbikes are finished and sold I should have a good bit more space to work with. Rabin

I think a nice option would be to change the silver to something more modern - say a newer BMW silver? Makes it way easier to blend, and they look fantastic - so a bit of a modern touch that's ever so subtle. We left keeping our cars stock LONG ago - so may as well upgrade the paint as well. Rabin

it's really not a bad idea, as all the videos hosted on this site are raw movie files I don't think I was even aware of youtube when the videos section was coded. Up to Rabin now, though

505turbo.com users, Around seven years ago, myself (august) and a good friend (trevor) who were both into tuning 505 Turbo’s decided it’d be a good idea to register a domain, and put a website up dedicated to the car. Over time, we expanded the content a bit, and decided to put up a forum. The site has grown beyond anything we ever thought, and has attracted Peugeot fans globally. To put the growth into perspective, last month we received nearly 450,000 hits -- pretty crazy, eh? Currently, since Trevor and I have both moved on from our Peugeot roots, we’re officially handing the website ownership, and all it’s content over to Rabin (bean). Rabin has been an admin essentially running all the backend duties on the forum for years now, and I have no doubt he will do a great job from here on out. UPCOMING CHANGES During the hand-off, I will be migrating all the content to a different hosting provider, and will be performing a major upgrade to our forum software. Things will look a bit different -- some things may break, some may take some time to adjust to, but I’m pretty confident the new software will be an improvement overall. To clarify -- the content on the forum and site will remain the same, it’s only the look and feel which will be different. In the next few days we’ll begin the migration. The forum will be brought offline tomorrow evening (6-Apr 2011), and should be back and live again within a day or two (in technical terms: as soon as DNS changes propagate). Please feel free to reach out to the webmaster @ 505turbo . com email address with any issues encountered. Rabin and I will continue to monitor that email alias. Best! ~August

MEASURING BOOST PRESSURE This measurement requires the following road test conditions Engine at normal operating temp (make sure oil is warm along with coolant) In 3rd gear, hold the car between 1500rpm and 2000rpm Floor the accelerator pedal Monitor the boost pressure between 3000 and 4000rpm, note the pressure, and compare to the chart below (the factory manual calls for measurement at 3k rpm which is too low for old turbo charging units IMO) N9T: 610 +/- 40 mbar (8.8 +/- 0.6 psi) N9TE: 620 +/- 40 mbar (9 +/- 0.6 psi) N9TEA: 780 +/- 20mbar (11.3 +/- 0.3 psi) N9TEA - CHECKING OPERATION Disconnect the connector from the electro valve Install boost pressure test gauge Perform test (same test above for checking boost pressure) Record values obtained as P1 (manual says ~0.5bar or ~7.25psi) Reconnect the electrovalve connector Perform test for boost pressure again Record new values obtained as P2 (manual says ~0.8bar or ~11.6psi) --> If P2 > P1 -- boost monitoring is correct --> if P2 is the same as P1 -- boost pressure monitoring is incorrect If boost pressure monitoring is incorrect, check: Check continuity of wires 2 and 2D Check diode (wires 2A - 2C) between pins 1 and 2 of electrovalve Check the hoses and circuit taps within the hose routing for: dirt, oil build up, ice at the restrictors Scans of these pages in the manual will be attached shortly....

Apologies about the recent down time. We had a bit of an outage at our colo.. all is back to normal.

We have recently launched our new photo gallery which will host site collected images, as well as forum user's images. Simply PM a gallery admin (bean & webmaster) and ask for a user account. Your user account will allow you to create a photo album so you can upload images of your car. The image upload process is very easy, and even supports uploading multiple images in a zip archive. Bean and myself are here to answer any questions, so don't hesitate to ask http://www.505turbo.com/gallery enjoy!

2007 was a very slow year for this project, nothing really happened except for moving the car and all the parts to a new home 1000 miles away. It's starting to roll again though: getting parts cleaned, taking the exhaust&intake manifold to the machine shop for some cleaning and minor work. Fitting the T04 has been more work then I was expecting, but not bad overall. The compressor housing is a bit bigger so I've been trying to get everything to clear, lots of griding / cutting I've got the turbo + test manifold bolted to a template head, and finally got everything clearing nicely today. Took some pictures with my camera phone (below). I'm going to start looking to injectors after the final cylinder head and turbo are in place. 2007 was a very slow year for this project, nothing really happened except for moving the car and all the parts to a new home 1000 miles away. It's starting to roll again though: getting parts cleaned, taking the exhaust&intake manifold to the machine shop for some cleaning and minor work. Fitting the T04 has been more work then I was expecting, but not bad overall. The compressor housing is a bit bigger so I've been trying to get everything to clear, lots of griding / cutting I've got the turbo + test manifold bolted to a template head, and finally got everything clearing nicely today. Took some pictures with my camera phone (below). I'm going to start looking to injectors after the final cylinder head and turbo are in place.