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We've uploaded some new technical material, some very good info! * BOSCH Parts list for peugeot (405/505) Fuel Injection + Ignition parts * LU-Jetronic diagnostics multimeter whitepaper * European Spec N9TE+N9TEAA (505 turbo) detailed timing maps http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?showforum=2

peugeot_parts_list_FI_IGN.pdf

LJet_multimeter_diagnostics.pdf

If anyone has similar data but for the US Spec N9T+N9TE+N9TEA, PLEASE e-mail [email protected] EU_505T_timing_maps.doc

We've added a few video's to the "Images & Videos" section: # Stock 89 505 Turbo donuts # Stock 89 505 Turbo donuts (2) # 405 Mi16 0-80mph # Stock 405 Mi16 vs. Toyota MR2 N/A # Stock 405 Mi16 vs. Toyota MR2 N/A (2) # Stock 89 505 Turbo (auto) vs. Toyota MR2 N/A # Stock 89 505 Turbo (auto) vs. Toyota MR2 N/A (2) # Stock 405 Mi16 vs Civic with sweet flames # Stock 405 Mi16 vs BMW 330 # Stock 405Mi16 vs Stock 89 505 Turbo automatic (rolling start) http://www.505turbo.com/media.php

I've uploaded a few good documents to the technical section of the forum. - 505 ABS Technical data - L-Jetronic Seminar - Detailed 505 spring specs (front + rear) - Misc. Haynes manual technical pdf's - 405 Engine codes http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?showforum=2

This PDF has been split into 2 parts: abs_1.pdf abs_2.pdf

This is the L-Jet system from the BMW E12, but still has some good info: BMW_E12__L_Jetronic.pdf

505_86_front_spgs.pdf

505_86_rear_spgs.pdf

505_22turbo.pdf

505_22gti.pdf

405_ecu_m720.pdf

405Mi16cat.pdf

Pistons are in! http://www.505turbo.com/tech_pistons_in.php Haven't talked to elgin yet. Gonna do stock cam for smog then probably check out the elgin scene once i figure out how much money i have left... haha. I'm also wondering how the danielson would be with proper fuel/ignition tuning down low? hmm...

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Very nice! I saw some of those in Italy a few weeks ago for the first time! ~Trevor

<br> <a href="http://www.505turbo.com/tree.php"> <img src="http://www.505turbo.com/pictures/tree/33_t.jpg"> </a> <p> ~Trevor

haha! Brilliant! ~Trevor

Yea that microswitch can be a pain. Nice diagnosis, i'm glad you figured it out! ~Trevor

ooo! Peugeots in german porno. they ARE sexy aren't they. ~Trevor

I'm sorry there have been no replies or suitable greetings for you. This forum community is just starting, and probably hasn't even exceeded 30 people as of yet. Your presence in the community is valued. Please try to bear with us while things start to get going... The only way a community like this can grow is with the help of its members. ~Trevor

I just noticed, on the forum home, there's a general peugeot discussion, and "General". I'm not sure why I did this, or what, but being we have an Off Topic section, i think I'm going to get rid of the "General" thread.. That sound ok, or do you think we should leave it there for MORE general discussion?

I've gone through some of my notes and started populating the "Technical" section of the forum. If any of you have anything you'd like to add, please do! http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?showforum=2

Group, Figured somebody may want this data to put in their "PERSONAL SHOP MANUAL". 505 REAR CROSSMEMBER GUIDE PINS It looks sort of like a missle, the shaft is 20mm to fit a 21mm hole. The threaded end is 10 X 1.50 X 10 mm. The tapered end comes to a 10mm flat point. The length of the taper is 24mm. There is a 10mm hole to put a pin in at 32mm from the point, so the cross member doesn't drop while you are trying to put the nuts on. The overall length of the tool is 145mm. Get a 10 X 1.50 X 150mm bolt and a piece of pipe 3/4" OD 130mm long, weld the bolt in the pipe and grind the bolt head to a point. SURGE BOTTLE FOR BLEEDING Use a windshield washer bottle or something similar and attach a hose from the bottle to the radiator. Hang the bottle (use welding rod or coat hanger to make a hook. The 405 does not have a surge bottle. We go to plan 2 or B or what ever. Now plan 2, I had to do this to the Renaults I worked on. Get an old radiator cap, and take the spring and such out, to where you have only the lid and the rubber seal. Get a metal, screw on type tire valve and take the schredder out, drill the cap and install the valve. Attach a hose from the bottle to the cap. hang the bottle and go to work. DBA BRAKE SHOE STEADY SPRING TOOL I used a # 1 phillips screw driver, grind the point off and cut a slot in the tip end. The tool goes into the spring and the slot sits on a bent end, press and unhook the spring from the clip in the backing plate. STRUT SPRING COMPRESSORS The spring compressor I use is made up of one 1/2" steel plate, 6 X 9", with a 3" hole in the center and two (2) holes on the ends for the bolts, a 9/16' steel plate, 6 X 9", with a 3 3/4" hole, and a 2 1/2" slot cut in the side to go around the shock housing and two (2) holes for the bolts. There is two case hardened, thread stock 24" X 3/4" with nuts to match. RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER You need to get pressure with a gauge on the system. Get a tire pump (hand or 12V ) with a gauge, dump the surge bottle and remove the hose, remove the hose from the pump and attach the hose from the radiator. ACCUMULATOR & FUEL PUMP PRESSURE TESTER On testing the accumulator, get some old A/C hoses, cut in half and modified the fit (install banjo fittings), then use your A/C manifold gauges. Use shop air supply for the pressure. TRANSMISSION OR ENGINE R & R Take a 10 mm "L" shaped allen wrench and cut the short leg to 15 mm long, on the long leg, heat and bend to 45 degrees, 30 mm from the short leg towards the short leg, this is to break loose the top tranny mount bolt (use a 1/2" pipe 12-14" long as an extention) once its loose it will almost come out with your fingers. 2ea bolts 12 X 100 X 150 long with at least 80 mm of thread to drop the chasses 2ea bolts 12 X 100 X 120 long, cut the heads off and cut a screwdriver slot in each bolt, for guides for the tranny. Cut you 3-4 lengths of coathanger about 4" long to make "S" hooks to hold cables, wires and clutch slave cyl out of the way while you work. Get a small strap or rope comalong to pull the rear end back and the drive shaft out of the tranny. Check the junk yard for a "U" joint from a wgn, (good or bad) doesn't matter, use it to control the shaft when sliding the transmission in. Take a 3" 3/8 drive extention, and file on two (2) flats away from the poppet ball, to 10 mm, to fit the oil drain plug. REFRIGERANT OIL DIP STICK The next time you open your system use a dipstick on the compressor. Take a coat hanger and cut a section about 10" long, put a finger loop in one end, on the other end measure 30 mm and put a file mark, that is where your oil should be with a dry system. Put a second mark at 25 mm, that should be where your oil is now, if over that, use a vacuum hose and pull some out. Go through the plug on top of the compressor, it will not fall straight because of the shaft inside, but let it fall as straight down as it will. This should get you as close as possible on the oil. :-) WHEEL BEARING LOCK NUT PUNCH'S 1) unlock punch take a 1/8" flat punch and grind the tip to a 45 degree angle 2) lock punch take a standard 1/2" center punch and round the tip 84 and up lower ball joint tool A Ford fullsize 4wd front hub socket fits The 505 balljoint perfectly. That & a 1/2 inch drive impact or breaker bar. By PeugeotPete