peppelepeugeot Posted January 24, 2008 Report Share Posted January 24, 2008 I have an 86' 505 i bought from a forum member, and after replacing the slave cylinder w/ a brand new one, and making good and sure it was bled thoroughly, can physically watch it work and move the throw-out-arm, but dont have enough pressure to put it in gear.Also, when pumped fast, pressure bulids then goes away. I know this sounds like its not bled enough, but anyone know what it could be-could it possibly be the "master cylinder" looking unit on the firewall under the brake booster?? thanks for the consideration- -Rick MOD EDIT: Merged your duplicate post to this one since I replied to the other one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted January 24, 2008 Report Share Posted January 24, 2008 Welcome to the forum... Can you detail how you bled the clutch? They really need to be 'reverse' bled to ensure there isn't any air. (Fluid pushed up through the slave through the master into the resevoir) If that was the way it was bled - then it's very likely the clutch master is at fault, as it really is the only other component in the system. Other areas to check would be the clutch rod itself, and the hole it mounts to in the pedal as some have mentioned wear in that area that caused issues. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peppelepeugeot Posted January 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2008 I used the 15 second technique-(hold the clutch for 15 secs. w/ the engine running 8 or 10 times and let the bubbles work their way up, putting a vacuum hose on the bleeder valve w/ the other end in a big bottle of brake fluid and purging that way, also the old fashioned one man on the pedal and one man on the bleeder valve technique too-how would you force fluid back up through the system and what could you use? clutch masters the problem very often as opposed to the slave? will check clutch rod too-thanks a lot for the info too- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 Yep - definitely try the reverse method as it's pretty slick. There are two ways that people do it. 1st is to use the left front caliper bleed screw - just connect the nipple from the caliper to the slave nipple, crack them both, then slowly pump the brake till fluid comes into the resevoir. I completely flush the brakes prior to this to ensure clean fluid is being used to flush the clutch. Method 2 is to use an pump oil can to manually feed brake fluid through the slave back up to the resevoir. Either way - you'll need something to empty the resevoir when it starts to get too full. I bought a cheap turkey baster for this purpose. If you do this and it's still soft - then I'd suspect the clutch master - but when they go, they leak into the car where the rod enters it. If it's not leaking there - it's probably fine. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krede Posted March 9, 2008 Report Share Posted March 9, 2008 I had the EXACT same problem with the clutch on my murena just a couple of months ago. I could see the clutch arm move but it was only at the very buttom that the clutc would actually disengage. I replaced the slave as well and bleed the system for ages but to no avail. Turned out that the MASTER cylinder was leaking, but it was not imideatly visible because its hidden away under the dashboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.