Guest adegnes Posted January 15, 2007 Report Share Posted January 15, 2007 My "no spark" problem evolved into a total rebuild of the cars whole harness, with current and voltage coming from everywhere, i decided this was the best solution.... pictures of the rebuild coming soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Posted January 15, 2007 Report Share Posted January 15, 2007 To me, it seems like alot more work to replace the whole harness then fixing the cars original harness. Of course I havn't seen your particular harness, but have you taken a look underneath the dashboard? It's alot of cables, and alot of work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted January 15, 2007 Report Share Posted January 15, 2007 To me, it seems like alot more work to replace the whole harness then fixing the cars original harness. Of course I havn't seen your particular harness, but have you taken a look underneath the dashboard? It's alot of cables, and alot of work. yepp, seen it... gonna replace it with a realy simple one, just lights, blinkers, wipers, heater fan and engine management) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Posted January 15, 2007 Report Share Posted January 15, 2007 Allright, well good luck then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted January 17, 2007 Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 Decided to move battery and (maybe) radiator to trunk. Found a cheap fm intercooler to, and got a 2m 3" alu pipe for free at local lamp manufacturer . - X-Racing Intercooler 600X300X76Mm Universal 3" in/out - Radiator w/electric fan from a 87 saab 90 Thought about making a vent/scoop in the trunk and cut out the sheetmetal behind the numberplate, then place the new radiator behind the numberplate. would clean up the engine bay... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted January 19, 2007 Report Share Posted January 19, 2007 Waiting for next paycheck to buy some wires and stuff... Found some cool (and cheap) gauges I'm going to replace the original instrument cluster with. Speedo will be a problem thoug... - Gauges (the white and silver one's) Going to look something like this: (ultra cool paint-drawing...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Posted January 19, 2007 Report Share Posted January 19, 2007 Decided to move battery and (maybe) radiator to trunk. Found a cheap fm intercooler to, and got a 2m 3" alu pipe for free at local lamp manufacturer . - X-Racing Intercooler 600X300X76Mm Universal 3" in/out - Radiator w/electric fan from a 87 saab 90 Thought about making a vent/scoop in the trunk and cut out the sheetmetal behind the numberplate, then place the new radiator behind the numberplate. would clean up the engine bay... Wouldn't the trunk-scoop hurt aerodynamics pretty bad? It would be a bit tricky to replace the speedo, maybe it's possible to use the original one and put it in your new cluster? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted January 19, 2007 Report Share Posted January 19, 2007 Wouldn't the trunk-scoop hurt aerodynamics pretty bad? Not quite shure..., seen it done on some racecars. Its supposed to be a pretty low and wide scoop, like 2cm height and 100cm width. The relocating radiator project is a far future project, If i'll even do it, not shure yet, allot of work and no real advantage besides the added space in engine bay. Going to try removing the rest of my car's harness to day, I'll post some pictures as soon as get started on the asembly of my custom engine management wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted January 19, 2007 Report Share Posted January 19, 2007 in the ignition system diagram, from the techtraining document toni posted, the igniton ecu has 25pins. Mine doesnt have nearly as many, and why isnt the knocking unit mentioned at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted January 20, 2007 Report Share Posted January 20, 2007 Decided to move battery and (maybe) radiator to trunk. Found a cheap fm intercooler to, and got a 2m 3" alu pipe for free at local lamp manufacturer . - X-Racing Intercooler 600X300X76Mm Universal 3" in/out - Radiator w/electric fan from a 87 saab 90 Thought about making a vent/scoop in the trunk and cut out the sheetmetal behind the numberplate, then place the new radiator behind the numberplate. would clean up the engine bay... nice looking intercooler? what brand, how much, where did you buy it etc etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toni Lindroos Posted January 20, 2007 Report Share Posted January 20, 2007 in the ignition system diagram, from the techtraining document toni posted, the igniton ecu has 25pins. Mine doesnt have nearly as many, and why isnt the knocking unit mentioned at all? You are probably comparing your European spec 1986 N9TE (?) engine with L-Jetronic (without lambda sensor) to the US spec models with LU-Jetronic (with lambda sensor) from the manual. That manual is for US models... Those US models with LU-Jetronic seems to have what the manual calls separate ignition and injection ECUs both with 25 pin connectors. European models without catalysator and lambda sensor control use "less integrated" system with L-Jetronic (with an injection ECU with 35 pins) + a separate ignition advance unit (10 pins) + a separate knock detection unit (15 pins). European models with catalysator and lambda sensor control use the 25 pin LU-Jetronic (like US models). Earlier you wrote that your car is an 1988 model but the N9TE engine is from a 1986 model car. I assume your car didn't have a catalysator and lambda sensor when it came from the factory, right? Then it should have L-Jetronic. But if it originally had a catalysator etc. you could be using LU-Jetronic - OR L-Jetronic if the engine electrics were also switched from an 1986 N9TE model with the engine... Please list the BOSCH part numbers of the (three) boxes so that we can be sure which system your car is using. :-) IF your car uses L-Jetronic, then you should be examining these documents (from 505.info): Peugeot 505 Turbo Injection N9TE - Wiring Diagram Peugeot 505 Turbo Injection N9TE - Key to Wiring Diagram Peugeot 505 Turbo Injection N9TE - Technical Description (or "Peugeot 505 Turbo Injection N9TE - Teknisk beskrivning" if you prefer Swedish version of that documentation) I received some original Peugeot documentation from French yesterday which includes workshop manual documentation for the European models with N9TE engine and 160 or 180 hp without catalysator (unfortunately in French). But it will take some time to scan and make them available... Right now I'm already exhausted with trying to finishing that English workshop manual. :-o Time to get some sleep (it's 06.00 AM here...). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted January 20, 2007 Report Share Posted January 20, 2007 nice looking intercooler? what brand, how much, where did you buy it etc etc? bought it at www.bsbildeler.no, norwegian store. its realy cheap, just 2000nok the brand is x-racing, will be fun to see how it works... x-racing xric at bsbildeler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 22, 2007 Report Share Posted January 22, 2007 The cooler seems to be a "generic chinese" intercooler, many shops here in Finland sell those too. I have one, but it's a little bit narrower (450x300x76mm core size) than adegnes' cooler. Mine has "autobahn88" stamped on. I guess they export those under many brands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted January 23, 2007 Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 Thanks for getting that cleared out, Tony. Anyone got any suggestions on where I should place the ECU's and relays? I'm thinking about placing them behind the glovebox lid, with the box removed. Or maybe in the trunk... will be long cables thoug, you think that will have any negative effects? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 A guy at work gave me some information on a company; (Pedersen racing) ,close to where I live, who could fabricate a custom rollcage for my 505tifor about 3000nok. (ca. 500usd) Gonna call them to day to get some information. I'm currently doing a stripdown of the interior in my car, I'll post some pictures as soon as possible... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metako Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 I have the ECU in the glovebox-lots of room in there. Didnt seem to be enough room behind the glovebox and inside it is more accessible. Also I have started an idea of making white guage faces for std 505 guages. I've scanned the dials (needles removed) then reversed the colors in Photoshop so the backgroung is now white instead of black and nrs are black. Then I sharpened the image a bit. Dont know when I'll finish it-I suspect it will be a long project. But if someone knows where to get white faces for 505s please tell me as I am not too good with Photoshop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted February 2, 2007 Report Share Posted February 2, 2007 Some pictures: I was supposed to just fix the burnt wires, and what do you know... Ended up starting a complete rebuild... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted February 2, 2007 Report Share Posted February 2, 2007 adegnes your motivation is inspiring. i really need to get off my ass and finish up some peugeot projects Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted February 5, 2007 Report Share Posted February 5, 2007 As you can see from the pictures I've posted, most of the interior is removed from the car, couldnt get the driverseat out though, two of the bolts holding it are destroyed (cant get a grip...) think I'll have to drill them out... Currently wondering how much of the dash I'll keep, and if I should weld a rollcage or not. I've decided to replace the front seats with a pair of racing one's .Had this in my first 505, sold them of course... kept the 4point belts, so at least I dont have to buy those. Also wondering what ignition/injection sytem to use: Options: 1. Keep the stock system (cheapest) 2. MegaSquirt (also cheap, alot of work and studdying) 3. VEMS (Maybe the best sollution, talked to the guy's at www.vems.se, all the parts I need will cost ca. 6800nok, 1100usd) What is that box and big condensator under my passenger seat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 Ordered some flashy 60mm smoke-gauges (goes black when you turn the light of) from bsbildeler.no, they have been on display, but never used, got a killer prize! 1x Boost 1x Oil pressure 1x Watertemp total 600NOK, ca 100USD (originally 1200NOK!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted February 11, 2007 Report Share Posted February 11, 2007 Update: - Removed driver seat (had to grind of two of the bolts holding it down) - Almost all of the interior is gone. - Should recieve my new gauges monday. gonna post some pictures soon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted February 13, 2007 Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 Recieved the gauges today, wrong one's ordered: 60mm smoke gauges with 270degree display got: 52mm mirror gauges with 90degree display No problem realy, it'll be a while before I get to use them anyway.. hope the returning of the wrong one's/recieving right one's goes without any hassel thoug... Almost finnished with the stripping of my car. some info: - trying to get my hands on a brakemaster from a non ABS 505, should'nt be too hard... - Decided to go with original Engine management for now (small budget...) - Going to place ignition ECU, injection ECU, and knocking unit where the heater used to sit. (some kind of bracket) - The mid part of dash (where the heater controls etc. sits) will be replaced with a panel with two switch group's: Group 1 - engine: switch nr.1 - Main (+) switch nr.2 - Ignition (turns on the ignition relay, wich turns on the injection relay) switch nr.3 - Fuel pump switch nr.4 - starter (more of a push-button) switch nr.5 - radiator fan Group 2 - div switch nr.1 - parking light (dont know if you call it that in english) switch nr.2 - lights, high/low beam, 3-way switch nr.3 - blinkers, 3-way switch nr.4 - window wipers. The tachymetric relay's only function is turning on (and off) the fuelpump right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted February 19, 2007 Report Share Posted February 19, 2007 Recieved the correct gauges bought some switches and stuff... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Posted February 19, 2007 Report Share Posted February 19, 2007 Are you sure about removing the tachymetric relay? I think it sits there for safety-purposes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted February 20, 2007 Report Share Posted February 20, 2007 Are you sure about removing the tachymetric relay? I think it sits there for safety-purposes. nope, think I'll leave it in there... just have to figure out the wiring... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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