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'91 N9TEA Flashing "6"


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Within the past months, I've had isolated flashes of the detonation sensor light. Today, it flashed six continually. It didn't matter if I was idling or driving at 3,000 rpm. This is extraordinarily bizarre, because that year's codes are two-digit for one, and the thing should be constant yellow above 1,500 rpm.

Can anyone give me any insight into this situation?

Thank you.

Bill

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do you have another set of ECU's you can try?

i've had the 5.1 code, but you can usually tell the pause so it doesn't look like 6. hmmmm <_<

I'm unsure also but there was no perceivable pause.

Since this is an intermittent problem, I am going to chalk it up to a bad connection.

I'd say it's either a 5.1 or a 4.2. But it's hard to say.

On a happier note, earlier in the day I had cannibalized the Euro-lights off the wagon with the vibration and installed them on the new one. Now, especially with the dark mornings, it's payback time for the a-holes in the pickups with weight in the back and the always-on-bright low beams.

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i used to get a 5.1 intermittently (more on then off) in my n9tea. the overboost switch grounded out, and did a wonderful amount of melting to the rest of the wires in the harness. i changed the sub harness in the engine bay, and now i get the 5.1 very rarely. i can see the wires are still a little crispy behind the firewall though, and i'm really not looking forward to tearing out the firewall to replace the whole damn thing <_< ... maybe it'll happen in the future, when i have a big garage, and lots of time dedicated for restoration. yeah, something like that.

how about getting some 90/100w H4 bulbs for your lamps :huh:

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It happened again this AM, and yes, it's a constant six, and the only effect engine speed has is that it makes the flashing faster.

The only common factor here is engine temperature, once I sat at a light, the other time I parked for five minutes after a sixty mile drive. I am going to check the NTC sensor. Fortunately, the engine doesn't revert to some running-like-crap default mode: the light just flashes.

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the NTC code doesn't retard the timing at all, so that would explain the still OK driveability..

i've seen the behiavor your talking about as far as the flashing goes on an N9TE with a bad ECU. the thing used to come on if it was detonating up high, so with the car revving at 6k the light would be like a strobe (well, kinda). i think replacing the ECU(s) cured that problem. if i remember right, the light should stay solid above 1500rpm.

being its a 91, i'm assuming this is your wagon. didn't the N9TEA wagons have some weird detuned ECU (hence the lower HP numbers to other N9TEA sedans).. i forget exactly how that worked. not sure if they had the straight up N9TE ecu, or a different N9TEA ecu.

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the NTC code doesn't retard the timing at all, so that would explain the still OK driveability..

i've seen the behiavor your talking about as far as the flashing goes on an N9TE with a bad ECU. the thing used to come on if it was detonating up high, so with the car revving at 6k the light would be like a strobe (well, kinda). i think replacing the ECU(s) cured that problem. if i remember right, the light should stay solid above 1500rpm.

being its a 91, i'm assuming this is your wagon. didn't the N9TEA wagons have some weird detuned ECU (hence the lower HP numbers to other N9TEA sedans).. i forget exactly how that worked. not sure if they had the straight up N9TE ecu, or a different N9TEA ecu.

Thanks, August,

I am going to check a few things tonight.

Something triggers the LED. Hard acceleration? Turning off the engine for a few seconds resets and the flashing stops. I can't remember exactly the difference sedan vs. wagon. I think I'll take it to one of those creative guys who just changes parts until he finds he's changed the right one.

Bill

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the code was usually triggered by engine bay heat (for me at least). if i sat at in stop and go traffic, or went through a drive though, or let the turbo cool off after a drive it'd usually go off.

haha nice idea on taking it to someone who'd like to change things till something works. make sure he's using the right ecu's though. <_< you could also check the connectivity between the wires on the ecu(s), and the NTC sensor plug to get an idea if it's that or not. (if you want help with this lemme know and i'll check the books tonight)

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Hey! The thing must have been trying to flash 4-2, I think it did once. It wasn't the NTC sensor; it was the throttle plate potentiometer. I had had a very difficult time setting it when I got the car. Now it would not adjust between 1.34 to 3.4 which you among the cognoscenti know makes it worthless. Anyway, I jerry rigged one I had lying around and drove the car for a while. It's runs OK.

Next up:

1. New pot.

2. New front brake rotors.

3. New hysterese spring in ZF.

Thanks for your encouragement, August.

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