Toni Lindroos Posted January 17, 2006 Report Share Posted January 17, 2006 Does anyone have a Peugeot's workshop manual that covers thermo-time switch (specs, diagnostics etc.)? I would like to see what's the correct factory procedure for testing it. Scanned pages or quick photos with a digital camera would be nice. ;-) Currently I'm testing one that I took off from my Turbo #2 and I think it's broken. Next I would like to test the one I have in my white Turbo and get a new part if needed. I've read about all kind of testing procedures, specs etc. but I'm still not sure if I'm doing it the right way... Here are some instructions I tried to follow and I also have some printed books (about Bosch L-Jetronic): http://bimmer.roadfly.com/bmw/forums/e23/1256956-1.html http://manuals.type4.org/ljet/components/ljet10.htm BTW, there are some new files in my web site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted January 17, 2006 Report Share Posted January 17, 2006 i'll copy the info, or take a picture of the pages in the N9T manual and post it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toni Lindroos Posted January 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2006 That would be great, thanks. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted January 18, 2006 Report Share Posted January 18, 2006 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toni Lindroos Posted January 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2006 Thanks, but that's for the 60 C thermocontact not for the thermo-time switch I was looking for. Here's a great picture of those sensors: http://www.turbo505.com/my_87/components/w...nk_sensors.html BTW, what's that 60 C thermocontact for, how is it used? At least my 85 Euro model doesn't have that at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted January 18, 2006 Report Share Posted January 18, 2006 aaaaaaaah!! sorry Toni, i don't know why i was thinking 60deg thermo contact when taking the pictures. i'll re-post. the 60deg thermocontact was used on the N9T's with lamda sensors which helped in controling open / closed loop operation (from my understanding). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted January 19, 2006 Report Share Posted January 19, 2006 ok here we go.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toni Lindroos Posted January 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2006 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest broke Posted May 17, 2006 Report Share Posted May 17, 2006 aaaaaaaah!! sorry Toni, i don't know why i was thinking 60deg thermo contact when taking the pictures. i'll re-post. the 60deg thermocontact was used on the N9T's with lamda sensors which helped in controling open / closed loop operation (from my understanding). Actually, the 60 degree thermocontact cuts the fuel injectors from supplying fuel while on deceleration. This only happens when the operating temperature reaches over 60 degrees celsius. Injectors return to full operation mode below 1000 RPM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 The pictures and dianostics on this thread are fabulous. Right now I've theorized that my detonation led flashing is temperature-related: when the engine is just warming up, I can deck it and there's no led. Once hot, I just have to accelerate. I am wondering if the sensors are wired correctly from that small harness at the front of the engine. There is also no ground to the distributor but there's a spade connector (necessary)? Can anyone with a properly wired engine tell me which goes to which? Thank you. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 The pictures and dianostics on this thread are fabulous. Right now I've theorized that my detonation led flashing is temperature-related: when the engine is just warming up, I can deck it and there's no led. Once hot, I just have to accelerate. I am wondering if the sensors are wired correctly from that small harness at the front of the engine. There is also no ground to the distributor but there's a spade connector (necessary)? Can anyone with a properly wired engine tell me which goes to which? Thank you. Bill the ground on the distributor (male connector?) isn't necessary. actually, i havne't seen any US 505 which uses that plug. i dont know if ALL the 505's i've seen are setup wrong, but i know it is possible to have a well running engine with that unplugged. wish i could be more help on the flashing LED, but yeah..... where's grubbs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted February 27, 2008 Report Share Posted February 27, 2008 Hello, I'm back, and my friend and mechanic Roger is almost done with the engine rebuild. We had a few wiring questions, because he called me to check where what was going, and I/we discovered that I have two '91 SW8 N9TEA's with different thermostat housings and sensors. The cars are seventeen production numbers apart! Anyway, the car he's fixing has the three sensors on the front of the housing as in the pictures above. Can anyone describe which wires go where? There are four wires which branch off the wire harness to the distributor pick-up and which feed off these three sensors. Thank you. This car allegedly had a new "long block" engine rebuild 40,000 miles ago; maybe it was a "new/used" engine swap for the price of a new one, and that might be why I've been getting single digit flashes from the detonation sensor LED and which might explain why the thermostat housing is different, and which might explain why the pistons "popped right out." Now, the vacuum lines are bizarre, because there are two foreign bodies otherwise known as cannisters and to which vacuum lines are attached, and the factory gas vapor purge cannister has been x'ed out. Was there an upgrade, or does this qualify as a jerry rig? Thanks for any and all help with these problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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