billbranch Posted December 31, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2006 I'm getting gurgling sound now from one of the relays at the fuse box/four relay area. It's not the injection relay or the ignition relay. This one has the wire 57B running to it. I currently do not have a boost reading on the gauge, although I do have boost. I'm getting a 41 flash from the LED. Can anyone give me a link to the US N9TEA electrical diagram, or even tell me what this relay energizes or what might be causing the relay to make these noises? I have switched the relay with the one for the other circuits, and it is not that the relay is faulty. Thank you, and happy new year/holidays to all. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Posted January 1, 2007 Report Share Posted January 1, 2007 Link to diagram: http://www.peugeot505.info/files/505_n9tea_cir.pdf But I think it's only for the ignition & fuelinjection-systems. Maybe the rest is the same as on this diagram? http://www.peugeot505.info/files/505_turbo...gram_300dpi.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted January 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2007 Link to diagram: http://www.peugeot505.info/files/505_n9tea_cir.pdf But I think it's only for the ignition & fuelinjection-systems. Maybe the rest is the same as on this diagram? http://www.peugeot505.info/files/505_turbo...gram_300dpi.jpg Hi, Johnny, I'll fumble my way through the diagrams. Thanks. One of my old favorite quotes, "If something is screwed up, check the last place you monkeyed around." "Someone" swapped the eurolamps with the standard US version ones between my two wagons and unplugged the boost sensor in the process. I reconnected the plug, and now I have an operating boost gauge and no LED flashing. Now, on to the relays. I was disconnecting the relay and trying various electrical components to see which the relay served. I'm still wondering why the relay is chattering. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Posted January 1, 2007 Report Share Posted January 1, 2007 Hehe, good thing that you found the problem with your boost-gauge. Could it be that the relay itself is broken? Maybe you could try and switch it with a know good one, just to rule it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted January 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 Hehe, good thing that you found the problem with your boost-gauge. Could it be that the relay itself is broken? Maybe you could try and switch it with a know good one, just to rule it out? The relay is new, as was the one with which I replaced it with the same clattering result. The US version has a clump of four relays near the fuse box at the firewall. There are two types and two of each type: the type which energizes the ignition circuit and the injection circuit, and the type which serves these ancillary circuits. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 I'm getting gurgling sound now from one of the relays at the fuse box/four relay area. It's not the injection relay or the ignition relay. This one has the wire 57B running to it. I currently do not have a boost reading on the gauge, although I do have boost. I'm getting a 41 flash from the LED. Can anyone give me a link to the US N9TEA electrical diagram, or even tell me what this relay energizes or what might be causing the relay to make these noises? I have switched the relay with the one for the other circuits, and it is not that the relay is faulty. Thank you, and happy new year/holidays to all. Bill wire 57B goes to pin 2 of the A/C cutout relay. from the looks of it, if the 105C thermocontact switch (which closes when coolant temp is above 221 degrees F.) will disengage the ac compressor clutch if the coolant temp is too hot. when you have the A/C on, does the compressor clutch engage and disengage? here is a breakdown of what's what: On the relay: - pin 2 = Wire 57B; which goes to the ignition switch and should get battery voltage when in the 'start' or 'run' position - pin 1 = Wire 47; connects to the 105C thermocontact switch (mentioned above) - pin 3 = Wire 135B; connects to the trinary switch (i've seen electrical problems with these before) - pin 4 = Wire 135C; -> to A/C compressor clutch. the manual says the 105C thermocontact switch is at the "rear of the cylinder head", but I can't think of where that would be off the top of my head. let us know how it goes.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted January 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 Hi, August, Thanks for the info. Because it's for the AC and it's "winter" here in the NE, I'm going to pull the relay and drive the car as is until Roger gets it back. Something is draining my battery, and I suspect it has something to do with this phenomenon. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted January 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 The detonation sensor LED has been flashing 41, but, once the car gets hot, it stops. I am going to investigate for a lean mixture and possible causes. I'm looking at the AFM to turbo hose and any sensors which might enrichen the mixture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted January 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2007 The detonation sensor LED has been flashing 41, but, once the car gets hot, it stops. I am going to investigate for a lean mixture and possible causes. I'm looking at the AFM to turbo hose and any sensors which might enrichen the mixture. I've solved the detonation sensor flashing, I think, when I discovered that the wiring from the throttle plate microswitch was crummy: the wires were old, the connections were corroded, and the insulation had been cut several times by otherwise well-intentioned people. I found a new/used AFM to turbo hose, arriving only minutes after it had been removed from the car. That's been installed. No more air leaks. Most encouraging, however, and maybe baffling, was that I tested the NTC water temp sensor and the thermotime switch and cleaned the connections. The car started almost instantly from cold, and the rattling relay is quiet. I'm going to remain optimistic on this one, and wait for a 20°F morning see how it starts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 glad to hear it bill, let us know how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted January 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2008 Now, about a year later, and after I've been using that car with the vibration sparingly (to the dump on wekends) while the second SW8 was getting a new tranny, I now need a new wastegate actuator and am electing for a new head gasket for the newer car. The vibration/drone is there, and I wish someone had info on it. The puzzling thing is that the vibration and noise go away after the converter lock-up, getting quieter for the 5 mph before the event. I am ready to bet Roger a thousand dollars that it's the converter. Maybe double or nothing. My newer wagon with the rebuilt tranny is smooth as silk by comparison, but there is still that same range of grumbling fifteen mph below lock-up. I am also going to look into the Dexron requirements for the 4HP22: on a Citroën site I follow, the members claim that Dexron III is not backward-compatible in the Citro-Matic; perhaps it's an issue on the ZF trannys of that vintage in our Peugeots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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