billbranch Posted January 4, 2006 Report Share Posted January 4, 2006 Hello. I got the thing back from the mechanic, and, when cold, the RPM's just die and die 'til the engine stops. There's no driveability problem or stumble. When hot the idle seems a bit low, but it doesn't die. I saw the post about the NTC sensor, maybe that's where I'm headed. I did check the auxiliary air valve. When cold, it was open; after five minutes of engine on, it was closed, and I'll assume it's working properly. Can anyone give me any other directions in which to proceed? Thank you. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted January 4, 2006 Report Share Posted January 4, 2006 have you hooked up an accurate gauge/instrument/SOMEthing up to check idle when warm? I think it's supposed to be 950 for automatics and 900 for manual trannny N9T**'s.. my old 88 turbo automatic would start, and idle at about 800-850 when cold, then would raise to about 950-975 when warm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted January 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2006 Thanks, August, and now the easy part is over. While checking with Brian Holm for the availability of the NTC sensor, I asked him, and he said the two likely culprits are the "accordian"hose at the AFM and the NTC sensor. While the engine was running, I gave the hose a slight nudge, and the engine stalled. The hard part will be finding a replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted January 5, 2006 Report Share Posted January 5, 2006 excellent! those are definitley prone to cracking. last time i needed one they didn't seem to hard to come by. dubarr, madhu, or brian have ought to have some! do you know for sure that the NTC sensor is bad? are you getting an error code? you can check the sensor itself by measure the resistance of the 2 pins after 3 fan cycles. I believe you want approx. 300 ohms. If that appears OK you could check the wiring harness from sensor to ECU's, but i doubt that's the case. if the harness is bad, and is getting a bunk, or no signal from the NTC, you should definitley get a code. let us know what you find! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted January 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2006 excellent! those are definitley prone to cracking. last time i needed one they didn't seem to hard to come by. dubarr, madhu, or brian have ought to have some! do you know for sure that the NTC sensor is bad? are you getting an error code? you can check the sensor itself by measure the resistance of the 2 pins after 3 fan cycles. I believe you want approx. 300 ohms. If that appears OK you could check the wiring harness from sensor to ECU's, but i doubt that's the case. if the harness is bad, and is getting a bunk, or no signal from the NTC, you should definitley get a code. let us know what you find! I do not have a clue whether mine is good or bad; I was merely checking components which could cause me problems. The car runs fine, except for a vibration in the drive train, which we'll discuss a bit later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted January 5, 2006 Report Share Posted January 5, 2006 if its possible for you to test it, i'd suggest doing it. i really can't see a bad NTC causing the problem, but i could be wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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