Detonator LED lights but no code N9TEA

[Skater]

I suppose one quick and dirty way to tell if you have the right one is to measure across the terminals with a hot engine. Since the thermistors have a common connection point (ground), if you see a reading that is double what you should see, then you likely have the right sensor. In other words, if it's supposed to be 250 ohms (I think that's right for normal operating temp), and you see 500 ohms or more across the terminals, you're good. However if you see 300 or less, you probably have the wrong sensor in there, that or it's out of spec (which may cause a problem anyway).

[Skater]

Update on the ECU swap:

I replaced the ignition ECU again with the correct one for the 9NTEA wagon. I will confirm that the ECU that started the thread was blown. I checked the electro-valve for flow and switching and re-worked the hoses back to TEA. All this because I converted to a TE setup with my 88 parts as a test. I used an air regulator to check the boost gauge and found it oil logged at the sender with a heavy oily goo (probably distilled crankcase oil). After cleaning out the hose and sender with solvent it is agreeing with my pressure gauge. I also tested the break point of the waste gate by watching it open with my regulator attached (engine off,car on a jack). It seems to open at about 8 psi. I think this is light boost because on the road I do not get full boost, only mid gauge pressures on the dash. I know the electro- valve modulates but I would think the only signal is from the det sensor saying we are banging, cut the boost. I think the electro-vaIve is off until detonation so I expect the waste gate to stay shut. I have no det indicator light on the dash. Timing is spot on and power is good and smooth. Will the waste gate by-pass and open it's self?

Can someone suggest the proper way to set up the wastegate actuator? I did replace it once when the diaphram let go and I have no idea if it is the proper part or if I have enough pre-load.

The car is running better than ever...I'm smiling.

skater

[Bean]

Can you hook up a boost gauge (or any pressure gauge really) to the intake and confirm the actual boost you're getting?

Pretty sure detonation just retards timing, so it shouldn't really affect the controller - although with the timing pulled the engine won't build boost well at all.

I could be wrong as well - I've yet to really ready up on the specific N9TEA stuff...

Rabin