clay32

A beautiful series 1 destroyed in todays damascus bombing, I its a screenshot from the front page of Al Jazeera's website this morning. Hopefully the 505 was parked and the fellow 505ist far away at the time... wonder how common n9t pugs are out there.

I would certainly have to be there also. I can't belive I'm 30 minutes from San Francisco and missed it last year.

I took in my 85 for California Emissions Testing and the examiner was furious to find my car did not have an EGR Valve or Air Injection System. I've swapped in a N9TE which certainly doesn't seem to have either of these things, and I didnt want to tell him that because I have a feeling I will have to take the car to smog referee which sounds really expensive. I still have the 85 intake manifold and theres a hole in it near the auxiliary air valve, is this where the EGR valve supposed to go? Also did the 85' US Export Models have an air injection system? When the tester asked where that was I was so tired over arguing about the EGR Valve I didnt ask him to look in his test book. I have an exhaust manifold with a tap hole in it, I was thinking of trying to bolt an egr valve to the car to get it passed testing. It passes on NOx scores so it doesn't need it anyway. I have no idea how to fit an air injection system though. If I cant swap the emissions garbage I could tell them I've done an engine swap, but the block says N9T on it in and I have a bad feeling the smog referee wont believe me, and still take all my money.

If you were going to put that much time and effort towards swapping in an engine insted of using something from a Volvo the Rover V8 bolts to a 4HP in Range Rovers and Discoveries, comes in sizes up to 4.6litres+ and is all aluminum. Plenty of performance bits avalible and not big and heavy it would go pretty nicely in a 505 I'd think. Way too much work to say it'll probably drop or crack a liner or something tho, and they were never as good as they should have been. That said they go beautifully when theyre running right, and somehow thered be an 80s 505/SD1 thing going that I'd like.

I know someone out there desperately needs one like I once did, and I don't need 2 spare heads. My Peugeot needs some money invested and I was hoping this might help cover it. It came from an engine with 140k miles that I pulled down because of a cracked piston, I have had it pressure tested good at 2 different machine shops, and I asked them to examine the exhaust ports very carefully. I don't know the going price on these, but I have ordered 4 N9T cylinder heads on the internet and 3 came with cracks so I was getting the feeling a good one was rare. So ill ask for $500USD, ill be shipping from San Francisco, California, or maybe Nottingham, UK

My 88 turbo has been ridiculously slow recently and uneconomical (5mpg on the motorway at one point), and after some experiment I found that there was so much blowby that my afm fuel mixture adjustment was um... a bit off. So readjustment with the crankcase ventilation tube plugged make a world of difference to my fuel economy but the car is still ridiculously slow, I always find myself at 5k rpm trying to make it move, as in my old N9TE I traded this for with my dad seems to have 60 more hp than my N9TEA. My dad had changed the wastegate when he had the car, I figured the boost could be a bit down, its well kept with a new ntc sensor, idlle air control valve, new injector o-rings, fpr, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, o2 sensor and everything else in that area, and o yea a fully rebuilt head with new guides, valve job, the list goes on. So to investigate my slowness and burning of quite a bit of oil I did a compression test. My results were #4 126psi #3 120psi #2 95psi #1 125 psi The engine thats in the car now had sat in someone back yard for about 5 years, he sold it to me for $100 and I've put 7k miles on it since I changed the head gasket a few months ago, about 12k since I got the engine in August or so. My question to all this is can cylinder #2 (I'm guessing cracked piston) be the explanation for tall he cars terrible performance? I was expecting barly any compression, and I dont want to urgently pull down the engine when not that much is wrong with it. The issue is that I have an N9T block in that I was going to swing into my 85 restoration project this week, but all of a sudden I'm wondering if I should swinging it into my 88 and worring about the 85 later. Problem is that the N9T block in question had 175k on it, and though the pistons look good, It went with a bad wastegate for 4 years (ouch), I really dont want to have to pull it out ever again, should I be looking at forged pistons? Im no expert here, but pulling engines is getting boring, and I'd dream of the idea of being able to turn up the boost a bit, right now in the N9TE car I'm scared to put my foot down damn thing seems so delicate. Don't worry I'm not a rediculous power hungry teenager who needs to turn up the boost to beat a friends corvette, I just want safe decent performance without having to worry its going to break at any moment. Im sorry for the million scattered questions, theres quite a bit going through my head at the moment. But yea does that 95 psi look that bad? -matt

My daily driver '61 merc came over from England with my family when we moved to the US. Cost 1800 pound sterling I think, dropped it off in North London with the keys and picked it up in San Francisco a few weeks later. Fun having the right hand drive and for the rusting process to have stopped. My brother still who lives in England is supposed to be looking for a nice 205 for me to pick up, we sold my mums old one when we moved (stupid 25y law), but it wasnt a gti though so still no fun. But yea I expect to be importing a 205 GTi this summer, depending on how finances and will to repair rust goes. I worry about California smog but I'm sure theres ways of dealing with that.

Thanks, I was actually offered the full 89 bumpers, sideskirts and fenders.But I'm holding off for a few months until I'm feeling rich. And it look like quite a lot of mod I like the spoiler for now though. I'm very jealous of your '89 though, sometimes those shelf bumpers make me think my car looks like a toyota corrola, then a pininfarina styled sports saloon. Though most of the time I love the car all the same. Yea I realize no one has commented on Cometic after actually using them, but I'm really tired of paying $100 for this other crap I keep getting. Especially after all the weird gasket trouble with my 86. Matt

Wow thanks awesome guys, well Alameda is only 20 mins from here. But I'd rather have a working one in kph than nothing I'm thinking. My merc has a broken speedo, and I get carried away very very easily. So, Bean how much do you think you'd want want for the cluster and maybe a mi-16 steering wheel? The story behind the car is a bit smart I thought, I was looking for a new engine for my white car, and I guy called up saying he had a project car he never got around to and I could have it and a not yet installed used engine for it at a brilliant price. I was gonna pull the manual box from the car and convert my white one and swing in the good used engine it came with, but when I washed the car it looked so nice I couldn't bare to part it out. (and 3 cars for a 18 year old isnt enough). So theres an n9te block somewhere in my garage with 170k, I checked the pistons and they look good so I was gonna swing it in. My only question there is should I change the timing chain? No idea how long they last on these but I've never heard of one go. O yea and how the hell do you get the torque converter stationary pilot bearing type thing out of the crank. Lol I think I'm gonna have to buy a tool for that job. On your recommendation Bean I was gonna go for a Cometic head gasket, I guess I'll see how it goes. I think there will soon be a day when I need pistons, there's a hell of a lot of blowby on my white one, haven't checked compressions yet but I have a bad feeling. Here's my beloved '88, been kept in a garage for most of its life but still not as good condition as my others. Ill upload some proper pictures after its been washed tomorrow. Front Spoiler looks a bit dirty lol. But thease are the avatar pictures.

Oh ok cool, thanks. hah the guy told me 100k, so looks like the car has been through a bit more than I thought. Especially if the speedo stopped working at 182k. You think you could sell me that cluster back? I've never had a Peugeot with an accurate speedo anyways. Just need the basics. I guess I'll go for the mi16 steering wheel, I'll buy the spoiler off you if you don't want it, but I know plenty of junkyards with those so thats not too urgent.

I'm trying to restore an old '85 turbo that been in the back of someones back year for 10 years or so with 3 cracked pistons. Problem is he almost began to part it out, and sold the instrument cluster, steering wheel and boot spoiler to a certain someone with an sti . I cant manage to come by the series I '85 turbo parts in any junkyards, can only find late model turbos. Anyone have anything to spare? O yea theres a 405 in a yard not too far away, do 405 steering wheels fit?

For the record it turned out to be the wiring harness. I replaced the fuel pump and then the wiring harness section from firewall forward. It turned out the connector contact pins where the two parts of the harness join together were so green and corroded you wouldn't even think they were made of metal. In the end I have never seen the car idle so smooth.

Thanks, I did change the IAC with 3 different units, with no effect on the engine stalling sadly. I also changed the distributor, coil, cap rotor, afm, fuel pressure regulator, unplugged to oxygen sensor, all the sensors in the thermostat housing, cold start injector, and I soaked every connector with a good dose of electrosolve. And of course every part I changed was from my used parts bin. I'm running out of ideas, so tomorrow fuel pump and filter, and I will check the ntc sensor from the engine computer. Hopefully that will shed some light. Any other ideas?? Hah I'm starting to get desperate if that isn't noticeable.

I have a wierd issue with my '88 where it wont start cold when the NTC Sensor is plugged in. The engine will fire up on soon as its cranked but stall after about 10 seconds, after about an hour of messing around with air flow meters, sensors and distributors turns out it will only stay running with the NTC unplugged. The sensor is new, about 3 weeks old and the same thing happens when I plug the old sensor in, or the blue sensor from the earlier models. Of course with the NTC sensor unplugged the car idles at 3000 rpm and runs terribly, but at least runs. The car has had this problem ever since I replaced the engine about 6 months ago, I always thought it was the fuel injector seals, or cold start injectoor but turns out its not. I have a perfectly running '86 (when its got coolant), which I can borrow any other sensors from if anythings conflicting. I did notice it runs a tad longer with the sensors on the throttle body unplugged.

Well I torqued down the head some more (there are 2 cracked bolt threads which I forgot to mention, A while ago I got frustrated at having to rent a car and tried to force the head gasket into submission and cracked the threads) figured that when they're hot I could torque properly. Yea I should have used a different block, but it seemed the best of the 3 I have. Well with me retorquing it still at the peugeots specs I went 150 miles until the low coolant light came on. I bled the system and went on to see what would happen. Anyways I went another 60 miles and now its on again. But the coolant level in the radiator is certainly not low (this is a known good sensor), so I figure some bubbles are getting into the system. What concerns me is that when the engine is really hot, (2 front electric and electromagnetic fans going) the coolant level in the reservoir is all the way at the top, and if I were to open it, it would explode coolant everywhere. I know it should rise, but is it to rise all the way? Also is my car running too hot? the outside temperature is only 35C and as I said the cars electric fans are even going. The coolant temperature gauge indicates above the second white mark during around town driving. I found the thermostat is good, and water pump and electromagnetic fan are what originally killed the head, and have been replaced. I see, well what I was trying to say there was that the bolt holes didnt have oil/water in the bottom. Ive seen it happen to a few careless people where there is some oil in the bolt hole and the head bolt hydrolocks on the oil, so you can never torque it down. But yea I did lightly oil them as per the manual. The last two times I put the head on and i didnt seal it was because of water getting past the head gasket, in the exact same places where the old one failed. But now the block is smooth and clean I guess that should not be a problem. The heads under a one year warentee from Erikson Industries, which is the least they can do after what they charged me, So I guess its just going to have to come off, if its going to keep giving me the bubbly treatment.

Well I just managed to get the engine back together, I was thinking my N9t nightmare was about to be over. I treated it to a whole new gasket set from WH. It started on the click, but I think that all I have good to say. I've just spent the little free time I've had for the last two weeks rebuilding it so I wasn't set up for disappointment. But the bubbles were so bad (this is after a proper bleeding of the coolant system) that I panicked and turned the engine off after the first fan engagement only to see bubbly water shoot out of the coolant expansion bottle like a geyser, it seriously hit the bonnet. The blocks tested for cracks, been faced, and this is a head fresh from the welders at erikson (different head from last time). I'm starting to think of mental ideas like turbos pressurizing the cooling system and so on. I just really dont understand whats going wrong. When I pulled the head off in Feburary it was susposed to be a weekend job... and back then it took 100miles to pressurize the cooling system. Is it possible to torque the head down more than 69ft/lbs without cracking the block, the threads are clean and free of oil, I just was wondering how high I could go. The only other idea I have is a zdjl or v6, and well I've put too much money into the car to be willing to go there. Rabin- You think that Cometic head gasket will help?

If you're gonna part it out please let me know, I dont think I'd have room for another car, much like everybody else, I've just turned down an 89 and the grey beast because of complaining neighbors. But I'd certainly but a lot of parts off it, everything it seems from the instrument cluster and steering wheel to the boot spoiler and gearbox I could do with.

Just as a note for anyone who is doing this, I recently replaced the abs pump in my '88 abs turbo with one from a 89 Ford Scorpio based on the info in this thread. It fit perfectly and the only differences were the polarity one the power connector (took me a few hours to figure out why it kept blowing the fuse), and the fluid pressure line fitting size, which I had custom made for very cheap. I only paid $15 for the pump rather than $500 from western hemispheres so this saved me a lot of money If your looking for a car other than the Scorpio that uses the Teves Mk 2 abs system you can find it on this site (I learned about this list an alfa fourm, they seem to have the same problem), scroll down to "TEVES MARK 2 ABS (4-wheel, Integral)" It can quite helpful if you're junkyard searching. http://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_list.htm

Alright I think I'll certainly be giving them a try, I ordered a Corteco full gasket set for this engine so I'll be giving that head gasket a try first, I'm really hoping its better than the last two I've been using (both Meillors). My next engine to rebuild is will be one for my '85 which I really would like to make a job of, it had three cracked pistons and I've been dreaming and saving for a performance orientated rebuild for it, especially so after reading up on the idea or 2.3 Ford and Volvo forged pistons. I don't know how realistic that dream is but I've got plenty of thease N9t blocks laying around and I'd like to do something special for once rather than just the constant repair of the 3 cars. It really doesn't look too expensive at least compared to the all money put into all my friends supercharged M3s at least. I have no confidence in the Meillor and Corteco gaskets, not really at last so sounds good. Do you mean changing the head without taking the engine out? Thats as easy as hell as long as you can crack the 4 bolts between the exhaust manifold and the turbo, otherwise you have to manage to take the exhaust manifold off, something that will take a lot of patience and a ground wrench, or as peugeot reccomends take the turbo off the engine mount, but i dont think thats possibe, and trust me I've tried. Honestly I think the wastegate is a harder job than the head. Does anyone know the torque settings for the main and rod caps? I've just started getting the engine together and that would really help.

Thanks, Ive been dreaming of a perfect N9T for much too long now The head I origninally put on pressure tested as good twice, its the only time I've ever used it, being I just bought it a few weeks ago from Imported Car Center, but I figured it was good. I have a recently re-welded head, and which cost me twice of what Erikson quoted me, so I think thats the one I will be using when I build the engine back up. The block got back from the machine shop the other day, Ill post some pictures later today because you can see even on the head gasket where the coolant was seeping by, could be good to see if anyone else ever has this problem. Head just blew on my '88 yesterday, when it threw the belts on the motorway the one day I let someone else drive it. It overheated quite castersrphicly and now its showing the dreaded low coolant light, I got the engine from a random pug enthusiast for $100, but I was hoping for more than 1500miles... it seems it never ends. But ill be putting my imported car center head on that car.

When I said I followed intructions to the letter I did just that, I did pull the sensor out of the thermostat housing, and when that didn't work I pulled the thermostat itself out to make sure it was up to level, and then didn't put it back in thinking the air could escape easier without it. I did pull the expansion jar as high as it would allow, and rerouted the line from the radiator to the expansion jar so I could pull it high enough. I then left it overnight so the bubbles could further purge, but it still bubbled. So I pulled the head back off, and found it hadn't sealed around the gasket in cylinder number 1 and 4, it seemed the was a hell of a lot of pitting in the block, so I cleaned it up to the best I could again, ordered a new gasket and tried it again, torquing the bolts to 80ft/lbs hoping that would force it to seal. Still No so I pulled the block out, pulled the pistons and crank and took it to the machine shop yesterday to get it faced. The car is only has 100k but it has sat for about 10 years after the previous owner passed away, and then the cooling fan didn't work after so much time sitting so you can guess what happened. I thought that some coolant must have got under the head gasket (one of the pits is where the gasket went) and just sat and ate away at the block. I did notice the pity when I was cleaning up the block but I asked my farther (who is a consultant for big diesels and cng engines and basically rebuilds engines all day) and he thought the head gasket would make up for the pitting. The machinist said he'd check for cracks and all put I'm pretty sure that was the issue, kinda sucks to pull down such a good engine though, theres still cross hatching on the cylinders, and the bearings looked like they'd just come out of the packet and all. I'm the second owner, and the first was a retired bloke, looks like he never passed 2000rpm. I'll tell you if it runs after all this

hahaha i was down in Newark last weekend for merc parts and I had noticed that the gear nob had disappeared that was there last month. I was planning to get the propshaft out of that car when I need to convert one of my turbos to a 5sp. Im definatly up for the jy day, I'll pm you about it later.

Alright that should make the project a bit more interesting, truth be told I was actually wondering earlier if that would be possible, but I guess we'll see. I think I do have an xn6 ba7 in my garage somewhere but I think it has a broken first gear so I'll go ahead and post on Peugeot-L. Being gaskets and parts are so cheap with the zdjl, I just checked and its a shock after being used to n9t prices where I just payed $80 for an N9T oil pan gasket and for a zdjl its $5, I figure I will pull down the engine while I wait for the tranny to sort out. It has 280k on it and has only ever had a new timing belt, so I may just go for it now and make it a good engine. Well you should be happy you didnt buy it, it had a cracked cylinder head and the one I swapped it for turned out to be cracked even though it pressure tested, so I sent it off to be welded. I should get a chance to swing the tranny out once my other projects are done though, its something I have been thinking about ever since I got the car. Besides the auto is gonna die any day now. Hey thinking about it I heard a while ago you knew of a scrapyard with some pugs in Fremont, was that European Auto Wreckers in Newark or is there another one, it might help if I'm looking for a ba7.

To put this shortly I've had a ZDJL engine sitting in my garage for quite some time and a '85 turbo 5 speed chassis without an engine sitting in my drive for quite some time as well. Being 2 N9t daily drivers is probally enough trouble to cope with instead of welding 3 cylinder heads to get all the N9Ts going I was wondering what would be involved drivetrain-wise in dropping in the ZDJL. I'm assuming if I did find a ZDJL ba 7/5 bellhousing it will never mate with the turbo's BA 10/5, but if it could by some miricle that would be bril, but I'm sure much too hopeful. My proper question is if I do find a ba 7/5 will I simply be able to swap it with the BA 10/5 or is the torque tube a different length or something ridiculous, and if I find a ba 7/5 from an XN6 car will i just need to get hold of a bellhousing for a ZDJL/ZEJK? No one would happen to know where I could find one would they...?

Both gaskets were made by Meillor, The first gasket I bought was from Imported Car center the second from Western Hemispheres, I threw away the packaging so I cant say more than that. The block was sparkling clean both times, I really didnt want to do it again so I made sure there wasn't a spec of dirt or even finger grease on the block or head. The pitting I'm talking about was not more than a 1 or 2 mm deep and it was basicly a rough area around the bore. But if it cant be the liners it must be the block I guess. I didnt take pictures of the block when I had the chance but I have a few n9t blocks laying around that have a similar thing going on, just not so close to the bore, I'll clean one up and post some pics tommorow. --matt