trymes

Also, my question earlier about whether the part is shared with another car was so I could check with local parts stores. I was pleased to find out today that the distributor cap and rotor are shared with a BMW 320i and a Volkswagen Jetta, so they are readily available here in the USA at nearly any parts store (I got one of each today at O'Reilly's). If that were also true of the actuator (say, if it were shared with a Volvo 740 Turbo, or something like that), then there's a pretty good chance that anyone in a major city in the USA could have the part in hand same-day, or in the worst case,next-day.

SRDT: Agreed, but the other question is whether it can be changed without removing the entire exhaust manifold and turbo to gain access.

And, for those keeping score at home, it looks like the actuator's diaphragm has torn. I hooked a pump up to it and it won't build pressure (I can actually hear the air escaping). 1.) How hard is it to change that part? 2.) Is that part shared with any other vehicle out there, or is it unique to the 505?

I will see if I can locate a pump to test the wastegate actuator, but I'm not near home. Would the normal failure mode be overboost or underboost? as for the pipe, unless I'm missing something, I can't really repair it, as it's plastic and cracked/warped. Or are you suggesting that I sleeve it with metal?

Photo of the wastegate is now up in the google album, the forum won't let me upload it from my phone.

I'm on my phone, so linking photos is a challenge, but here's two in link form: https://goo.gl/photos/ygWrvTfYxEA3TDj4A

Should I be able to move the wastegate by hand with the engine off? I shimmied under the car and yanked on it fore and aft and it is not moving.

Ok, I pulled the intercooler and found the plastic elbow at the Turbo inlet is crushed and causing a vacuum leak. That explains the hard starting and bad idle when cold. Placed a rubber glove over it for a moment and the idle jumped right up. i presume that the wastegate and flapper can only be seen from under the car?

Update: I spoke with Brian holm, who was quick to point out that he isn't a gas-turbo specialist, but he gave me a few things to look into. I disconnected one of the wires leading to what I believe is that over-boost protection switch, and the car doesn't exhibit the behavior, and it feels like it would go like the hammers of hell if I were dumb enough to put my boot in it (right up until it grenaded). In addition, the boost gauge will go high when exhibiting the behavior, though it is clearly getting interrupted on its way up. Any thoughts on how to proceed in troubleshooting?

Ah, so I just have to get the strobe around 15 belts and such! That does sound like what it's doing. Is very gentle if you barely have the throttle open and cruising, while it's very aggressive if you put your foot in it. The engine is a GPE2.1V5FACX from the label on the underside of the hood, I can't find the other code. Its an '86 Turbo.

Thank you! I forgot to ask: where are the timing marks on this beast?

So, I have taken my first step into Peugeot ownership by purchasing an automatic 505. The car is in good shape, but needed attention to the brakes. I replaced the master cylinder today, and that now seems fine. However, I have an issue under acceleration. Basically, the car has the following symptoms: 1.) High idle when warm - 1250 RPM 2.) Hard starting when cold: dies unless you rev it up. 3.) once warm, the engine pulls normally, you can hear and feel the turbo start to spook, and then once the engine hits 2,750 RPM, it starts kicking and bucking, perhaps knocking (though the dash indicator does not light (it does when starting the car), and basically running like a bag of...you know. This happens regardless of whether you are at low speed and really give it the boot, or if you gradually increase speed to 65 or so, where the engine is normally at 2,750 RPM. It's much less violent if you have a small throttle opening. i was wondering if this might be a timing issue? Too much advance as the boost comes in? Where else should I be looking? Many thanks, Tom

OK, I spoke with Eriksson, and the best guess was (unsurprisingly) the governor. Perhaps worn O-rings allowing leakage? I also found this thread on a Land Rover forum where a user had used the wrong Loctite product on a bolt, causing the governor to move and the O-ring to disintegrate. Either way, I'm guessing that the tail of the transmission is going to have to come off, which has me wondering how hard of a job that is, given that the 505 uses a torque tube. On most cars, I'm guessing that you just unbolt the driveshaft and slide the tail off of the transmission, but with a 505, I'm guessing it's more involved. Any thoughts appreciated, Tom

I know that diagnosis at a distance is iffy at best, but I thought I'd throw this out there: I am looking at 505s, and one car (belonging to a member here, no less) looks very nice, but has what sounds like a typical 4HP22 fault: reluctant to upshift out of first. Normally, though, I hear of this issue happening when the transmission is cold, and the problem goes away once warmed up. However, on this car, the problem manifests when warm and goes away once the car has sat for a while. Some online resources point to a potentially clogged filter, but then mention that the problem goes away when warm, while most of what I have been able to piece together points to a governor problem. Any insights from the community as to what might cause this? The car is a long way from home, and I'd love to be able to drive it home and deal with the issue after the trip, especially as I would literally have to drive past Eriksson in CT to get home. Also, is this more of an annoyance to be dealt with when convenient, or is this an issue that will ruin the transmission if driven? Many thanks, Tom PS: The transmission was rebuilt 6-7 years ago.