casm
-
Posts
73 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Collections
Everything posted by casm
-
The best way to describe the sway bar bushings is that they're there They aren't totally shot, but could definitely use replacement. I'm planning on doing a more-or-less full bushing replacement front and rear but need to get under there and make a real inventory of what I need before launching into it.
-
Need 1986 505 STI distributor pickup
casm replied to themcguire's topic in Peugeot 50x Series discussion
An option in the fully-electronic department might be http://123ignitionusa.com/ ; they're the US distributor for http://www.123ignition.nl/ My only experience with them was brief and in a 2CV, but it worked very well. They aren't cheap but if you're out of options... If you are interested, I'd recommend directing questions directly to the contact email address on the Dutch site. The US distributor doesn't seem to have quite the depth of knowledge as the Dutch company that designed the units. -
Rear shocks are done. Replaced the clearly-ancient ones (one of which had no rebound left in it) with a pair of KYB KG5566s. No idea how the car drives yet as the fuel tank is still out for cleaning, but I'm expecting that a couple of the local roundabouts will be more predictable with those in there.
-
Hey André! Good to hear from you! Hope all's well on your side also. You're right about pulling the tank, and I'd forgotten how easy it is to get it in and out of the US-spec 505s. Once I remembered the trick (take it out from the driver's side, then remove everything at the top and work the rest out along the passenger side as you go), it was a doddle. The only real issue that I had was finding out that it had closer to 10 gallons of gas in it than the 3 that I thought it had... But a couple of neighbours were more than happy to take the remains It's at the shop now and I should get it back Monday or Tuesday. I told them to take their time; I want to do the rear shocks while it's out. Hopefully the thunderstorms will let up enough tomorrow or Sunday that it's doable. And yep, $75 was the price for the cleaning. Turned out that it was too clean to need sealing; a good de-rusting (which is almost entirely on the filler neck) should take care of it.
-
Pulled the fuel tank; going to send it out for cleaning & lining on Friday. Car will be out of action for about a week while that happens. Now that I can see the upper bolts for the rear shocks, I might even get around to taking care of those.
-
That's interesting; the Michelin Defenders have fairly good reviews across multiple sites for wet weather traction. I'll agree that they probably won't be as good as the Premiers would be, but they have to be better than the Falkens. Those were so bad that I was getting what felt like axle tramp from the rear end (a really weird feeling, given that it's an independent rear!) when taking off from a stop on wet pavement - and eventually spun the car 360 degrees in the wet. It was at low speed in a gentle curve, but when I ended up facing the wrong way in the other lane, it was time for them to go. Just glad there was no other traffic around. Going to pull the fuel tank tomorrow night for cleaning. After looking at what it would cost in chemicals and disposal fees to do it myself, I've decided to just send it out to a shop to have it done. They'll tank it and line the inside once it's finished for not much more than chemicals and disposal would run, and as a bonus the owner of the shop that I called used to have a 505 Turbo wagon.
-
New tyres yesterday: fitted four Michelin Defender XTs in 195/65R15. The Falken Ziex ZE612s that were on there previously had usable tread remaining but were utterly lethal in the wet. Moved one Falken to the spare as the old spare had cracked sidewalls.
-
Having had three 205 XRAD vans with the XUD7 (IIRC) in them and always wanting to upgrade to the XUD9 with a turbo, this is definitely holding my interest
-
Thanks Most of this is just making notes as I find problems, working on one thing, then either fixing it or getting tired of it and moving on to something else before going back to it. Right now I'd really like to sort out the running issues, but still need to do quite a bit to eliminate possibilities - still haven't pulled the intake boot or throttle body, so those really need to be checked next. I did fool around with the timing a little earlier. Timing light suggested that it had been set to the first tab on the timing cover indicator, not the first notch, so was advanced by a few degrees. Got it more or less spot-on but don't feel a significant improvement. I'm going to go ahead and order a replacement vacuum advance unit - as far as I can tell, everything mechanically is OK (if I raise the revs with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged the timing mark advances smoothly, but it does the same thing with the vacuum advance connected) but when driving things still aren't quite right. I'm hoping that the marks on the timing chain cover are in the correct spot. Goce, good points re: the cabin fan. I don't remember how strong they should be at each position, so since 3 works I'm just going to set it on that and drive with it on for a while. Hopefully cleaning the switch will allow better electrical contact, which should also help. I'm also hoping that repairing the vacuum at the HVAC controls helps with the running - switching between positions doesn't seem to have a huge effect on that, but it does lower idle slightly. Oh, and I found that someone wired in a switch to run the auxiliary fan manually. It's in one of the blanks in the HVAC panel and was hard to identify as a switch since it's broken. My suspicion is that it's doing it by engaging the A/C compressor; I'll find out more when I pull that part of the dash apart.
-
Poked around in the distributor earlier as much as I could without actually pulling it. Internally, it looks to be in pretty good shape - no visible rust and springs are working. No movement on the vacuum advance when sucking on the line to the advance, though I can hear the diaphragm move a little. Suspect it's shot; will order replacement. Found that the #4 (nearest the front of the car) injector appeared to be leaking at the fuel line. Pulled the injector and gave it a good cleaning with brake cleaner; also shot a bit up into the fuel line. Judging from the rust on the union at the fuel hose it's obviously been like this for a while. Put everything back together and will keep an eye on it; may order new injectors at some point just to have them out of the way. No change to overall running from doing this. Thought that the steering was getting a little heavy when pulling into or out of parking spaces over the last few days. Checked the reservoir: empty. Hadn't noticed any leaks the last couple of times I was under the car, but that doesn't mean that there wasn't one. Also don't really remember what the level or condition of the power steering fluid was when we got it. Reservoir was only down by about 6oz.; topped off to cold fill line with Lucas stop-leak and will see what happens. Figured out that the cabin fan can be made to work on either the second or third speed with some jiggling of the fan speed lever. Will pull switch and clean; hopefully that fixes it before Winter hits. Also figured out (once the cabin fan was working) that the ventilation control does nothing - air is always directed to the defrost position. Suspect vacuum issues behind the HVAC panel; will investigate when pulling cabin fan switch.
-
Been busy for the past couple of weeks, so not much has been done. That said, I did manage to get ahold of an inductive tachometer that actually worked. Had a suspicion that the idle speed was way lower than it should be. Turned out that my suspicion was correct. Now have it set slightly over 800RPM; car is much happier coming off of the throttle and down to a stop. I suspect that at some point it was turned extremely low to compensate for the myriad vacuum leaks that were in there previously. The downside is that I finally got definitive proof of the vacuum advance on the distributor not doing much of anything useful, so that'll have to be taken care of as well. At least I'm finally starting to get a clear picture of where the remaining running issues actually are.
-
First oil change completed. Started it yesterday, learned that the oil filters I'd picked up were the wrong size, got the correct filter this morning. Change performed at 156,000 miles exactly. Drained old oil (had run a half-can of liquid Seafoam through it for approximately 150 miles before change), added 4 litres of Castrol GTX High-Mileage 10W40. Replaced filter. For reference: correct filter is the Wix 51340 (M18x1.5mm). Had ordered Bosch 3401 filters; diameter was M20x1.5mm so they would not snug down.
-
Fiddled with the vacuum system some more. With the delay valve in place and in the correct orientation (red side towards manifold), idle is lumpy to the point of occasionally wanting to stall and driveability is awful. Removing the valve from the circuit makes the car driveable, but it wants to dip below idle on lift-off. Putting the valve in backwards makes it driveable and seems to calm the idle down, so going to leave it like that while I track down any remaining leaks in the secondary air systems. Also replaced the flasher relay; the old one was occasionally sticking. Went with a CEC Industries EF33 electronic flasher. Doesn't have the centre ground pin that the original one did, but seems to work fine and will allow fitting LED bulbs into the indicators without rapid blinking later on.
-
Replaced all the vacuum lines except for the one between the rear intake manifold fitting and the delay valve (green circuit). Need to pick up a reducer tee tomorrow and splice into the existing vacuum line attached to the fitting at the rear of the manifold. Have noticed a definite improvement in response, however. Not surprising given the state of most of the lines - particularly the one for distributor vacuum advance (brown circuit). Both ends completely crumbled when touched. Surprised they didn't do that when I was looking at them previously.
-
Wow, breaking down twice in one week
casm replied to Vegas Peugeot's topic in Peugeot 50x Series discussion
If it's any consolation, my first 505 had one of the shift linkage bushings let go after shifting into 3rd on the freeway. Had to do the same thing you did (crawl under, jam it in 2nd, drive 18 miles home like that). After 30-odd years, stuff will just wear out - though that did happen to me about 16 years ago, so you've done better than I did on bushing lifespan Unfortunately, the shift linkage bushings on these cars (meaning the 504 & 505) is kind of a known weak spot. I've been looking at Bryan's thread on his heim joint upgrade and am wondering if that couldn't basically be done almost all the way back - basically, replace the existing rods with heim joints, threaded rods, and lock nuts. Next time I've got the car completely off the ground I'll take a look, but it might be an option. Probably more work than it's worth, though, until the world's supply of linkage bushings is exhausted. -
It's been too hot and I've been too busy lately to get much accomplished with the car. The to-install pile currently includes: Rear shocks (KYB p/n KG5566) Clutch master cylinder Exhaust one-way valves Oxygen sensor (not doing this until after the one-way valves are replaced) Ignition switch will be ordered in the next couple of weeks along with the front struts. Need to figure out some occasional cold starting lumpiness; suspect either another vacuum leak and/or crud in the fuel system. Will probably have to just pull and clean the tank, which I haven't bothered to do yet. Did manage to replace the antenna after the old one rotted out, and having more than two stations to listen to is nice.
-
Can't help you with the lights as I've never done that conversion myself, but I think I may recognise your car. Did that one come from Dubarr? If so, I saw it down there a few months ago. Really tidy, liked it quite a bit.
-
Goce, this one is a photo of the picture in the owner's manual showing where the plugs are. I didn't have my phone with me while I was working on the car so wasn't able to take any pictures while underneath it, but this shows it really well. Other than that, diff has been drained and refilled with Valvoline 80w90 (GL5 with LSD additive), and the gearbox was topped up. Test drive to happen later when it's not longer the hottest part of the day.
-
Drained transmission & refilled with Valvoline 75w90 GL5 with friction modifier pre-mixed. We'll see what it does for the shift quality; having pulled only about 1.3 litres of oil (which was way past its prime) out of there, anything has to be an improvement. Need to finish the job tomorrow; fluid transfer pump gave up close to having the gearbox completely refilled. Will also drain & refill diff (Valvoline 80w90, GL5, also with LSD additive pre-mixed) at that time.
-
Replaced the clutch slave cylinder yesterday; pedal feel is definitely improved but I'm not quite sure it's at 100% yet. Also have the clutch master cylinder sitting here waiting to go in; suspect that will cure the feel. Not looking forward to removing the brake booster again to get access to it, so am waiting for a couple of cool days before tackling that one. The car is still up on jackstands so haven't driven it with the new slave cylinder in place, but judging from the state of the old one it was time - although the boot was intact, there was a fair amount of rust on the face of the cylinder. It also seems to have cured the creaking sound coming from below when the clutch was being worked, so it has that going for it, too.
-
Thermostat & gasket arrived today, so replaced them in-between thunderstorms. The car now warms up and holds temperature properly, which should help the fuel economy a bit. Noticed that the fan clutch seems to be locked down. I'm guessing that it failed at some point and this was the workaround for outright replacement. Will get to it in the autumn; it'll be hot enough for the next couple of months that there's no real point in replacing it until the weather cools down. Confirmed via stethoscope that one of the secondary air injection valves is shot; going to do all four at once since doing one means getting access to them all. One valve is here; three more are on order. Autozone P/N is 355050, aka GP Sorensen 779-2929. Also have the oxygen sensor on standby for when those are done.
-
Same here, but it did at least explain a few running issues. I'll get the fuel pump screen in the next day or two, but I'm holding off on the tank pickup until it's not 100degF outside. I figure the tank needs a cleaning anyway, so I may as well just pull it and do it; it's just not something I want to try in triple-digit temperatures.
-
Yesterday was the end of a week-long battle with trying to remove the old fuel filter. My suspicion is that whenever the fuel filter was last changed, whoever undertook that particular job decided to torque down the banjo bolts on the fuel lines to the filter itself by way of an impact wrench. The fittings at the filter ends had been pushed inwards to the point where the washers at the bottom of the banjo bolts couldn't be seen. A couple of quick shots with the impact wrench and the filter was finally disconnected from the lines. This is the gas that came out of the old filter; the tub that it's in was completely clean before it was drained into it. The filter replacement has eliminated what felt like pulsing fuel delivery while driving as well as some lift-off suddenness in engine response.
-
Ran a bottle of Prestone coolant system flush through the system over the course of the week. Changed the coolant yesterday; the old stuff wasn't the worst I've seen but definitely needed to be replaced. Refilled with Prestone 50/50 pre-mixed antifreeze. Replaced the radiator fan switch. No change; given what the temperature gauge is now doing since the coolant flush, it looks like the thermostat has failed open. New thermostat and gasket are on order and should arrive in a day or two. Will see if this has any change on the electric fan's behaviour once it's in. Also replaced the radiator cap with a venting-type cap - the old one was suspected of having a weak spring.
-
Thanks! It's definitely a project, but it's a project with promise. This was a $300 car, so the chances of it ever being fully-restored are virtually zero. That said, it already makes a pretty decent local runner, which is really all we want from the car at this time. Fixing the air-conditioning is definitely on the list, though. Only going to post the one photo below for now, but the full album showing its current state can be found here.