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Posts posted by V-M
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Well... u fill find some supricing bearing model from there :-D
V-M
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Have u find replacement bearings for it? Where?
V-M
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Yes, Intake side some roughness is needed to have small surface turbulance to help better air mixture to fuel. Like sandblasting kind of surface is good. Exhoust side should be polished good.
V-M
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I have good used oilrings ones still also (I can put set of these with out no cost also there). Remember at those deves ones are for good original size cylinder (cant adjust gap size on those).
That "A" spec difference to "B" and to"AB" is just thousands of mm so that does not matter on used engine.
V-M
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Deves is good alternative. I have ring sets too... but then you need to use old oil rings. That can be done also with small rework for old ones. Ring set is for 92mm pistons so those ring end cap can be adjusted for worn cylinder.
V-M
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Those are reusable ones. Have not seen N9T engine with yield bolts.
V-M
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That adaptor is only on facelift models 86 ->
<-86 models have only pressure unit directly on block
Block = cylinderblock
Block is same in all 505 turbo models
V-M
P.S And I have one of those adaptors + sensors also on storage
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6.4mm std lift
V-M
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This can be found also from Old L-listing... Written by Toni
We did order our guides from there in 2004
There might be several sources in US but ordered them from http://www.sivalves.com/ about a year ago when I couldn't get them from Europe. Their service was excellent and they shipped to Finland.http://www.sivalves.com/ocforeign_vguides_peug.html
Guide: Peugeot: 2.2 N9TE Turbo IE Std 0.3546" I.D.x 0.5910" O.D. x 2.205" Long VG 5332/00
Here are some info and pictures:
http://peugeot505.info/index.php?spgmGal=P...ages〈=2
Let the machine shop take off the old guides and they'll tell you what's the outside diameter of new guides they need. At least the guy in a machine shop I used said that he'll need to remove the old guides first and then measure the old guides and holes. So he did and told me the correct outside diameter and I ordered the new guides from SI Valves. They should be able to come up with a .002 thousandth's oversize on the outside diameter if needed. My old guides came off easily and the outside diameter of them was about 14,98 mm, that's about 0,5898", so the machine shop had to grind them a bit to make them a perfect fit. I only replaced the exhaust guides because the intake guides were still in a good shape.
NA engines guides are steel and turbo guides are bronze
V-M
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There u have all info -> http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=14
This is all u need...
Danielson camshaft 200 cv
Open of the cams : 7,45 mm
Total Inlet time open : 278°
Total exhaust time open : 289°
croisement : 45°
Diagram :
AOA : 21°
RFA : 77°
AOE : 85°
RFE : 24°
V-M
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New rings is enough, and light honing needed to get ring fitting.
V-M
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Ok. thanks.
I'm trying to find out whether peugeot in Denmark can actually supply them.. rumor has it that they can!
I doubt at you can have them from Peugeot... But luckily there is alternatives.
V-M
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Yes, there is different sizes.
V-M
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So in your opinion it is fully acceptable to "lap" the valves ?
Yes
V-M
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I have machined both sides (head and valve) and after that done lapping for all valves. I'm sure at after 100tkm there is no coating existing anyway If there eaven existed coating.
I think modern angles is round instead of 3 or 5 angles.
V-M
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Chain is much more reliable and longer lasting... Mercedes and BMW is gone back to chain is some engines.
V-M
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Yep. That's Chrysler 2L engine block. Looks like at that head is un used and eaven not drilled.
V-M
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Bearings are same. Drilling those con.rod ones is okay to do. Inform me also price... And I'll have a look again my storage
N9T crank is not rehardened... And if it's nitrated it's recomend to use red metal (more copper) bearings and those are not available. But hardening is not realy needed... original bearings will do.
V-M
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Yes, at least my grinder do it. Anything can be nitrated... for cam it did cost ~80e, cost is coming from weight so crank could be bit costly. But at least my experience fir nitrated cam was bad. I only drive 200km with good oil and I was allready started to penetrate trough nitrated part (they did fix it with out cost).
Crank is different story and If I remeber right 505 diesel engine cranks were nitraed.
V-M
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Checked... that C is cr 8 engine. sweden swich engines have W in that place.
I did test nitrated cam... not working at all. It's too hard and starts to wear right away. I did discuss with cam grinders about that and he confirmed ad in rocker cams it usually dont't work. With lifter type heads it works better.
V-M
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Fast reply here... Sorry m8's I'm dam drunk rigth now... so I might to correct later...
C is that latest one... 180hp version block. well actually no differencies anyway... thats 8:1 anyway. Lower comp rate was only for US, Swizerland and Sweden
We can confirm that later...
Cam... yes... that looks normal weared cam... I have those a lot. :-P
(but can be fixed)
Happy New Year 505 m8's!
V-M
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Not asked from me... but I still answer
SPEC stage 3 feels ok. Was bit rough at start and was taking pumpy when releasing but now it feels like standard. It could be also at this coldness has some effect.
V-M
P.S Strange? In that link it shows at I have stage 2 not 3? Packet was saying3
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Would be very curious about the dani cam you have though. I personally am not sure if I want the high RPM breathing as I like the car to build boost quick and have lots of power down low as well. Course - maybe a nice turbo and the dani cam would still be OK.
Rabin
? As I said with dani its like std cam under 4000rpm. It only breaths better over 4000rpm than std. Or did I understand u wrongly?
V-M
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If that's original dani and not grinded from std. Then caps are not needed. But there should be absolutely no difference of engine running fex. iddle with dani or std cam. Only difference is at it breaths better over 4000rpm. If there problems, two things comes in my mind. Assembly failure (wrong timing) or wrong grind angles.
Surely this does not directly solve that adjustment prob... one thing is at that rocker holder "pipe" can be worn. And then adjustment can change when running.
V-M
P.S -> slash caps -> http://www.aircooled.fi/shop/index.php?productID=342
These are us made, so should be easy to find there ;-)
Take apart N9Txx waterpump, how?
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