V-M
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Posts posted by V-M
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Any saab with B or H engine (2L) from 75-> 90's, 99 and 900 models . Also NA engines have same conrods.
V-M
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Those saab con rods are 134mm and saab bearings are easily available and cheap. Set of new con.rods 80-120euros and those can take beating up to 500hp.
V-M
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No this time it just leaked to cooling system that cylinder pressure. I start to belive at some place gives up cause large bore and starts loosing grip.
Next engine is for 92mm or 93mm.
V-M
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Did drove 100km with it and IT did that again. Now I give up with it and build new engine with smaller pistons
V-M
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Car has now yearly inspection done and I can drive it on roads legaly now :-) Still oil and water are their places as they should so it's looking good. In winter time I'll install that programmable engine management and 600cc injectors. So dyno will be in next summer. Propably I'll change also turbo to bit better one...
V-M
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If it goes under 80k... it's cheap. wonderful car... tested sortly in 1985 when one rally car was in promotour here.
V-M
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Surely you know but just for note, there is more effect in turbo engine if exhaust starts with bigger pipe than ends or same size whole way. I have 3" from start to that rear narrow place (where original pipe goes). I fitted 2,5" pipe in same place as original to that last original silencer end. I know it's not so fancy end pipe but but car has maybe different idea
As you see there is no extra silencers than that end one only and you can hear sounds from that my last engine video in that my topic.Exhaust gas starts getting less density when cooling so in end gas fits in smaller pipe
V-M
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Test that link again...
V-M
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I did try to upload it here directly, but I could not?
V-M
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Monster is ROARING again
Finally I did found some motivation to fix it togeter (parts have been there for nearly 1,5 years), ecept I did found at con rod upper bearing was totally worn out from all rods, and those were made same time as engine was build. So those vere driven only under 1000km. Those was made from wrong material. Now those are made from correct one. Running in video 600rpm...V-M
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Thank you!
Yes, dyno is a must when we getting it run. We are planing to purchase a bigger turbo, we are currently looking at Garrett T28 series.
We are planing to fire it up this summer
T28? I recoment mitsu TD04-16 to -19 models with #6 or #7 exhaust. Much better strength and response and can give max 280hp -> 350hp range.
V-M
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When need is big enough :-) Then you can try to convince me to sell 1 from my storage (4 new ones in box in garage).
V-M
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Heh, I can add also if it helps section. I have taken cyl head off 34times in past 2 years. Opened whole engine 8 times in same time frame. And now I'm doing cyl head for 35 time in this weekend... :-P Surely my engine is custom one with odd things, but still.
V-M
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Try without BOW/dump. Then u know if that is causing probs.
V-M
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Small amount black details in silver wheels sounds good on that clean black outfit. No tuning things... please. Thats awesome looking 505!
V-M
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I'm clad how this story ended! Nice effort from both sides! Congraz!
V-M
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do you think it would be worth advertising this overseas? i'd imagine shipping would be pricey, but it's a 'no rust' 505.
Sorry m8,
I forgot to answer, It cost around 1500 euros to ship it to fex Finland. Could be possible.
V-M
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U need to get rid of those sharp edges there...
V-M
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Dam nice looking!!! I wish it's located closer...
V-M
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You can replace low ohm with high ohm without modifications, but otherway around u need resistor pack.
It's 8ohm/inj what have to be added if needed.
V-M
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I would shorten that inlet guide and make it also bit narrover.
In my next re-make head I'll cut that totally off
V-M
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Don't think I'll be balancing the crank, is it really that neccessary on a straight 4-cylinder engine?
I was under the impression that it only was neccessary if you make changes to the clutch/flywheel, or if you wanted a finer tolerance.
The pistons shouldn't do any harm at least, since they aren't part of the rotating mass.
Hehe, that thought came to my mind too.
I will balance/weigh the rods and pistons.
Did you mean between the old set of pistons and rods and the new, or 5g difference between the rods and pistons in the set I'll install?
Did Tama balance his crank? (Because of the rods/pistons)
That's a shame... any idea of where I can get bearings for a reasonable price?
Do you know if I could swap the gear set in the open diff with those in the lsd?
Only straightness is needed to check. IMHO All 4 axels which I have re-used were bend and needed to be straighten before milling.
I ment between new set pistons and rods
First balance pistons then rods. Then combine weigts to match.I think he did crank and flywheel... I'm not sure. But I think he did some lightening for flywheel... have to call him and check.
I have not find any other than simon-auto.de for source... and there price is 260e/set.
I think you can swap.... but measure tooth hitting from old setup to compare after re install.
V-M
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cork is good (I would eaven say best)... if used and istalled right way. IMHO
V-M
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With turbo heat load in exhaust side is bit different thing than N/A engines. IMHO
I have also that same 180 head and block in my carage.
V-M
Tama's 505 engine mods
in Performance and Tuning
Posted
Main problem is pistons, piston is allways broken first not rings. N9T piston is bad quality IMHO. I can show some pictures of pile of N9T pistons where edge between 1 and 2 ring is broken. Someting like 20 pistons I have trown to metal circulation and I still have pile of them at home.
There is no that problem in Volvo pistons at all.
V-M