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Posts posted by V-M
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I have SPEC stage 3 since 2007... I think or 2006 I just order it from their web page and bolt on. Been there since then, nothing to complain about.
I my cases this sound is caused those rear support axle rubber "things" are loosed, usually metal worn out from rubber side. I dont find good picture right now but I bet some know what I meant.
V-M
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My data paper says 91,7 x 81,6. exhaust in dani has same size as std head.
V-M
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Yo! Nice to have more enthusiast's on forums
V-M
P.S Rabin... Is 2 turbos (Garret t25 or t17) on N9T engine proper enough welding new exhaust this winter I have also this ball bearing "disco potato" turbo in garage but... I want some exotic build
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It can be taken in parts 2 of those but fixing it other story. I have not managed to fix it, the plastic parts are hard to get hold with metal ones and keep leaking on other places. And I find working one so I did not study it more. Take that pin from holding arm first and see
V-M
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Whole fuel rail is easy to remove with injectors without removing inlet. Also regulator can be removed without removing anything else than vacuum hose and fuel hose and two 6mm bolts (or is there someting extra thing next to firewall in us models?)
V-M
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Rabin, depends on case but rarely std is used cause main axel is usually worn at it needs machined anyway so over size is needed, but of cause then question is main bearings then. Clearance must be matched between those. I have managed to use std size two times on building N9T engines, one's on main bearing and ones in con rods Then machinist needs to know exact clearances but good ones know this issue very well.
I would be good buyer for those sets but I have those in storage (also 0.1mm over size sets) roughly 10-13 sets (main and conrod). NOS
But I'll keep in mind for other Nordic hobbyists and spread word about this.
I agree that correct N9T exhaust gasket is hard to find. One reason is at it can be reused many times and original made in good solid way.
V-M
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Wellcome Rangga, Nice to see enthusiast from other side of globe
V-M from Finland
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I'm back on business, sorry about absence I have been bit out of service.
V-M
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Nice car, same look as my one. I have a lot of parts for these ones if needed.
V-M
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I need to picture it first to know is it ok for repairing. If ok then surely change is ok and price is according it.
V-M
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Hi,
Yeah I'm here I did answer in private also but I do it here also in case there is others in "North" area. I have 8 heads in "stock" Not all fixed but I have good connection to realy experienced welder (he has welded and fixed over 10000pcs alumium heads) I have also 2 pcs of dani heads for sell with all included (dani cam etc...) those are ready to install packages.
V-M
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Thx August and Trevor for giving this opportiny to continue this forum to Rabin, I believe at he will continue good work with this community Thanx also for past years, I hope you will be still around with your knowledge.
V-M
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hey buddy i don't want to rain on ur parade but im with rabin on this one,anything bigger than 2 inch ur asking for trouble ur gonna end up with burnt up exhaust valves or end up warping them keep in mind its only a 2.8v6 not a 4.6v8 u still need some back pressure for torque and acceleration plus your also gonna be messing with the factory vacuum specifications under the hood.and not to be a crap taller but i was racing an svt 4.6 about two months ago down from big bear and spanked him due to all the turns my car catches up to stock srt4's on the freeway all i did was carefully retune the mad to run a lil richer all i would need is a small serpentine supercharger and i wouldn't doubt any 505 with blow the doors off your mustang. mines only a glx 5spd with afyetmarket intake.
Agree on that too. And doing supercharged u need better engine management if u want power out and of cause change pistons etc... without doing engine works you can do only 0.3bar or less boost. And I think H piping works on V6 okay (eaven odfire engine) X-piping could be better on V8's (no experince for comparing) I have only driven paxton compressor V8 with and without H-pipe (Pontiac Firebird -99)
V-M
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Here in Finland at least one is done over 10years ago with 250hp and over 450Nm torq. I don't know if car exists but I know builder. But if you have BA7 gearbox it will not take that torque what turbo gives.
V-M
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BEST ones are the biode 504 euro headlights I have for the 504. 55/60W AND 100W high beams in each. They're insane on high beam.
Rabin
I just remebered at I have one new 504 bidiode lamp in storage, have to dig it up. Bad thing is at those are difficult to sent (I have experience of one 505 bi-diode sending and glass was broken).
505 bi diodes are very good also, I have been thinking to use H4 HID with moving shades.
V-M
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I have taken 2 N9T cars from Sweden in parts and both of them did have EGR valve installed. -85 and -87 models (old and facelift). No airinduction.
V-M
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European GTI are only N/A engines 2.0L (ZEJ) or 2.2L (ZDJ) depending year model.
V-M
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Bad Bad... thats even worse than those japan tamagotchi cars :-P
V-M
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405 T16 did have same torsen in rear as 505
V-M
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TD versions have vented ones also.
V-M
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Thanks for clarifying that - I was making the assumption that the 2.1 and 2.3 Volvo's had the same pin height, and so the Saab rods might work with the 2.3 pistons as well.
V-M - do you think 96mm pistons are worth pursuing if custom rods are used? Or do you think 96 is just too big a bore for this engine to handle? It looks to work great from your pictures, and if custom rods can be used to get the proper rod length - that would make for quite the monster motor.
Hardest part for me is finding an engine guy that even wants to attempt such a build... Most are too scared to even discuss it, let alone take a look.
Rabin
My current opinion is at 96mm is too big. I have now worked with that engine 2years and way too many openings for engine. From hp point of view it has no big difference and head flow with smaller piston is easier to handle. So I would keep it 92-94mm max. With custom piston it could not have problem, hard to know. But new engine will be same set as tama have.
V-M
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Combinations:
My Engine Volvo 96mm pistons and N9T conrods, Tama's Volvo 92mm pistons and Saab conrods.
Volvo 96mm pistons and Saab conrods dont work togeter, rods are way too short. I'll try to put some pics for getting that bit clearer.
V-M
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Also I see V-M has used 95mm pistons, wondering what those are use in?
I priced up the piston through my uncle that works @ the Volvo dealer, $300 for the whole 92.5MM piston kit...
My was also volvo pistons 96mm from 2.3L B23ET (or B230ET I'm not sure) turbo engine. Those 92mm pistons are from 2.1L (B21et) turbo engine which is bit older volvo engines.
V-M
New engine for 505 turbo
in General Peugeot discussion
Posted
Not opened engine since then, started it few weeks ago and it runs nicely (2-3min) but oil and water are mixed, but I dont want to destroy bearings and main axel by running engine. But good news is at garage is now cleaned for getting 505 in and start looking reason for continuous probs.
But I have put some serious thoughts for twin turbo idea... but these t25 and t17 could be too big ones to use, maybe use some new diesel turbos in stead. Lets see...
But first is to find out current prob, could be at I just put one of std engine there to move and use car in winter time.
V-M