V-M
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Posts posted by V-M
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If you just get std bore size info thats okay. Any thickness will do (probaply they have that 0.059" if any)
V-M
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Did they have any on stock?
V-M
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Check that knock sensor box on right side on inside console, same issues occured when heater adjuster starts to leak and it leaks directly in that box and there is no hole where water can come out so it will fill up and destroy box. Cause it should indicate someting when reving. Hard idle also if there is leak on inlet side (try close any hose in inlet, also break vacuum).
V-M
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Interest to know what they have in std bore size. If no stock then I'll think some other supplier.
V-M
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when running try to unplug sparkwire one cylinder at the time to see if its one cyl or more general prob.
V-M
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I have trying to contact cometic now 3 months (sending emails, fb contact) no answer. Calling is way too complicated to proceed in my case. Any direct contact name there or other way? Or maybe they not interest to deal with beond artic cirle
I was just trying to get info about availability and price at this stage. STD size.V-M
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If cmpression is okay (readings?) and plug wires are correct ones and installed right. Next one is to check cam at there is all nozzels as they should. Small wear will not effect engine run so much (it will worn fast when started). How did rough run start, at sudden or little by little?
V-M
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Good at there was easy solution for problem.
V-M
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Some billet wheels are looking strange cause rough surface which is not good for air flow. Have no real data about it, just a feeling. I agree on copying. I have not seen any failure caused by casted wheel. Billet has good value if have made for make better spooling or flow or more air mass.
V-M
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I'll go with same set up as Tama did and I have build one engine with same setup to other finland hobbyist some years ago. Volvo B21ET 92mm pistons and saab conrods, cheap and easy build. Those pistons are hard to find (new or used) but can be done. Those engines are used also in us version of 740 turbo (my father did have imported one). I did buy my piston set from sweden around 100e including postage. Set of conrods was 50e.
have some fade memories talking about it with joe years ago.
V-M
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Any has those C pilar turbo decals?
V-M
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I have used these c8e plugs mainly with dani head and cam, tested cr9ek but there was some probs when cold weather or someting (cant remember for sure) Still have them and try when new set up is running.
V-M
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I used std ones on those, I only added adjustable fuel pressure cap and added more 0.5-0.6bar pressure (old pump did not give more and it dropped 0.1-0.2 when boost) and adjust boost to 0.8-0.9bar peaking 1bar. I think those was only ones from mixture pow. Those changes u mentioned are are common ones but I decided to use fuel pressure cause easy to adjust and neat installation.
U ment water temp resistance I think, to ecu provide richer mixture (cold engine)?
I have currently those original Bosch 300. And will set all same way to new engine to ensure at all works as before and then start to install all those bits collected during years
600cc inj.. Megasq etc. tempting to put two Garret GT17 (have some extra on self) just for fun and experiment also bought fuel pump bosch -044 for more pressure and flowV-M
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Color in spark plugs? That work only when using lead contained fuels. Seen some changes in plug color only if something is really wrong (not working at all). Also u can disconnect that over boost circuit and try sofly if it makes diff. Those over boost switches I have was from 1,0-1,4bar limit. Sounds like stucked wastegate (common prob).
V-M
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Yeah... but how many 80's or 90's cars are having wb with self tuning ecu
yeah some after market installations. surely even re85 can be used (after pump and lines etc is changed). But with these old systems and engines this ethanol is not giving any good sides. (there I need to correct my self... here in cold countries it was in since 60's very common to add 1-2dl ethanol/methanol in each tank fill to prevent ice in carb and tank).V-M
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If only after market are available try to find koni or bilstein inserts. But surely used originals are available. Even unused front struts can be found
Also original rear HD (TD and turbo) struts are good if found new ones. I can post some teaser pict 
That full replacement set with oil cans (in mid of pict) was found and bough from France in 2008
Here is also picture of original strut oil can (I used this when I rebuild my current ones)
V-M
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As I sayed some earlier topic I would not recommend go over 94mm. I would keep it under it if possible. And those original pistons are not taking nearly any knocking. One thing I noticed at even same settings it knocks so easy with hot engine. But when mixing or buying race fuel knocking is gone. In summer time I use all my cars that shell 99+octane if available (only good gasoline around here). In winter time it does not mater cause most of time its -C degrees and not recon any power loose (only grip is gone)
If things go planned I'll start building my new engine in 2 weeks. This alco amount in current gasoline are not working nicely on these old fashioned gas comb engines. With better flow characteristic (from inlet all the way to exhaust) and better engine management it (current gasolines) works.That 96mm was educating exp but costly (also time wise)
V-M
P.S this was my 505 post on forums
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Originals works best and those seals are available still. Those aftermarket ones are not good (surely better than worn originals). New seals and right oil for usage is good option.
V-M
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Just one note if usage temp is not going under -5C use only mineral oils on old cars. Just change it often and with filter and engine will work longer and more efficient.
V-M
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Yeah... I do only 4000-6000km with oil changes and allways change filter also in all my cars. filter is cheap part and expands engine life. why not fram filters? never had any probs with fram.
Flush is dam good way to maintenance engine, its also bit dangerous cause it can damage if not done properly. Automatic oil need to change in every 20000-30000km or in 3-4years (I use 40000-45000km and 5years on my saabs).
V-M
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I have used diesel 0.4-0.5L in ^4L oil amount. Procedure is at add that diesel and run engine ^15min in 1500-2000rev and then change oil and filter (basically same instructions as those official ones). I have used this procedure last 6 years in all engines I have. Earlier I did buy these official engine flush things. But when I found out at thats 99% of same stuff, I started use normal engine diesel oil. Here in Finland is also 2 variations of it, taxed one and no taxation. I have used that non taxated version of cause cause its cheaper and same stuff as taxated one (only red colorizing agent used). Surely every one uses this at own responsibility.
V-M
P.M I have noted at some flush manufacturers are giving wrong instructions when using those. Never run engine in idle revs after agent is put on engine.
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Cool mini size
It sounds pretty odd I ment same way odd like this one ->
V-M
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Some short info about Saab turbos (Garrets and Mitsubishi) Early models before -94 used mainly Garret T03 (and some early also mitsu TD04 models), -94 -> 98 Used Garret T25 (pretty good response range and power ~280Hp from 2,3L engine) and Mitsu TD04HL-15T on aero models (good one also and can do ~300hp). -> Newer models used GT17 (pretty good response but good only max 200hp and very bad to rebuild and waste of money). Mitsu TD04 models used these newer are pretty good and can do around 300-340Hp. This is just rough summary and I'm talkin about saab engines 2.0L and 2,3L and engine power not wheel power. V6 saab is crappy engine in over all, I dont even count that on listing. You can find some real dyno results from my engines and engine stats to make some comparison. And of cause feel free to ask
I'm thinking to rebuild 2 of those Garret T25 and make new exhaust for them, cause I have some of those on storage
V-M
n9te euro running rough ,
in Technical Discussion
Posted
I have used spreading water spray or small amounts start pilot spray on possible leak spots is easy way to check leaks. Dont use too much pilot spray or it will explode... and how I know that
U can just take that hose out and replace it temp any hose fits to check. I have connected it also bypassing turbo. Directly from meter to head inlet.
V-M