V-M
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Posts posted by V-M
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Those are same bearings. I'm using Chrysler bearings (and I have those sets... many but mainly only main bearings).
V-M
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That is regular chain, used in many cars only lenght is different. So longer is ok if there is lock witch can be opened and then only thing is to shorten chain (easy job). Also continus chain can be shortened but it needs some special tool to close it back (some repair shops have it).
Specks:
Oil chain 3/8" X 7/32" 48 lenks (18/G 67 48) (JIWS chain markings)
Main chain 3/8 X 7/32" 98 lenks (29/D 67 98) (JIWS chain markings)
V-M
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I'm pretty sure it's the t chain, the noise is high and only when hot on de accel or off idle standing. People on Peug-l have suggested that it may be the oil pump chain, and Matra people have fixed it using spacers.
Bit doupting oil pump chain? Thats short and there is nowhere to hit. I bet worn or too long (due head machining) main chain. Bad thing is at when chain is long enough, tensioner can come out and rest is not so happy ending... (seen this in one engine).
V-M
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I did short test drive on that Tama's car on Thuesday
But I did drive very soft. Feels nice when turbo comes in 3000rpm. Some adjusting needed but nice drive, and car feels good... stiff enough.V-M
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V-M, thanks for the reply, but I think you may have lost in the translation I'm looking for the potentiometer, not the microswitch. NTEA?
Argh...
What models have pot.meter in TB?V-M
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So I was checking out the usual peugeot searches on e-bay and I decided to check out 2.3L turbo pistons to see what's up...
I found it with an hour to go so I figured I'd toss in a bid.
Looks like I have a decent winter project this winter...
It's also cool that it comes with the rods as it will be an interesting comparison to the pug rods. I've been told stock ford bottom ends easily handled 450 HP - so the pistons should be fine for my use.
Rabin
And if youre lucky u can use also rods
V-M
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Well I have used very simple one:
1. turn iddle srew close
2. open pos.sw srews
3. set idle to 650rpm in axel srew and nut
4. move pos.sw at it "clicks" in idle position
5. secure pos sw srews
6. set iddle in iddle srew to 950rpm
V-M
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Hi, Gang,
There is a line which runs out from the front underside of the throttle body and which exits through and out the back of the intake manifold toward the brake mc.
Can anyone tell me where this line should plug in?
Thank you.
Bill
Do you have green (3 tubes) "thing" in thermostat housing? -> there?
It's from pressure meter?
V-M
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You're speaking to him
Nice!V-M
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My machinery shop didn't use torgue plate, we did discuss about it but machinery specialist (have done this job 40 years also for racing engines) sayed at this block is like solid iron
and Does not need any torgue plate but needed to take 0.5mm at the time from block untill reached this ~92mm -> 96mm.I calculated at currently it's around 8,7:1 and with out this mistake (where I actually wanted) it was planned around 8 (to have this 1.5bar boost) but now I think it will be max 1.2bar
Gasket is just it's limits, in one corner it's on 0.5mm on combustion camber side so it's potential to blow when pressure is increased. I have now driven only 50km and only with 0.5bar boost.
I just reserved dyno time (again) so we will see what will be happened in couple of weeks
V-M
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Actually I decket block it only 1.4mm and that was not needed at all (that was a mistake). And original gasket is on place and I didn't make any modifications for it.
V-M
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WOW! Nice prices...
V-M
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Whoever re/re er my cyl head before me left one out, so I only had three. I went to the local auto parts store, and bought a length of stainless steel exuast pipe, and cut what I needed. It was not the same quality as the Peugeot ones, but it was the exact same diameter.
The Peug ones look like they could last forever ( as long os you don't loose them)
Sorry we talk other ring(s) not those 4 ones in head and manifold.
V-M
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Hi,
Yes, there is insulation ring in manifold side. Difficul to find original and no replenisment found yet. I have used old one many times without problems.
V-M
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I did open 2 engines in my piston search but only 2 valid pistons found.
4 was totally collapsed and 2 other was worn in rings. I have third one which I'll open next time I have time (dunno when).V-M
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i'll have a look when i get home tonight. i think i have some pictures on my camera still.
interesting, any of the XD tensioners? what do you do when you want to remove the head?
XUD engine ones (any 1.9,2.1,2.3,2.5), u need to open also down part of front cover
when takeing head off.
V-M
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U can use Diesel version tensioner, not so easy to use (no acceess from that side plug) but can be used.
V-M
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My block hade some serious corrosion and needed to be milled. My tuner needed to remove the bushing or guides that goes between the block and the head (it's two of them). They broke when he took them of.
My question is:
Are they really necessary?
Yes, they are. Bolts are not adjusting head in correct place with out them. Remember to check how much metal from surface is removed! -> compression change and piston travel!
V-M
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Is NOX = ignintion knock.
Have installed haltech to prevent that. Originally the ignition advance is 44 deg at 4000 but in the maps the tuner created on the dyno it's 38 deg at highest (my haltech handles max 40 deg). But thats with no load.
When I put on some pressure it quikly retards to around 25 deg (if I remeber right).
My tuner also had to pull out my bosch spark plugs and install NGK. Bosch was shitty he said, they knocked what so ever.
If someone is interested I could put out some of the values in the map to compare with the original ones.
Bjarte
Nooo: NOX is Nitro Gas
Sure! share the maps.
V-M
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Originel bearings, those 2.3L (96mm) Volvo pistons fit nicely in originel con rod (with small machining work). Those originel bearings can handle all power you can gain without NOX
V-M
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How much do you change compression and volume with this?
Compression would be around 8.7 to 8.5 depending how deep cuts are made for valves. Volume increase in minimal, compare 91.7mm -> 92mm piston.
V-M
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Coswoth pistons are good but expencive, you could use also B21et Volvo pistons (92mm) but you need different
length con rods (shorter) like Saab ones. I have those dimensions some where. Also I have 3 sets (used) of those 92mm Volvo pistons.
V-M
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Well I'm using 96mm pistons (volvo) at N9T bloc and originel head gasget. So you figure out?
V-M
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Hi V-M,
Yes, yes, yes!!! What a small world!!! Milan Dobes is the man who will make the renovation of the engine with me! I know him for more than 10 years. Woooow - small world, I couldn't believe it
And when You have seen the www.chryslerclub.cz . You must know that we are prepairing the first world meeting in our republic.
You can send me an e-mail, it will be faster, I mean.
Have a nice day,
Bye for now, Michal
Sorry at my answer is pending
Some unspected issues keeps coming, but I'll try to see pistons asap and there is slide posibility to deliver those with one hobbyist who is coming at your meeting in end of month (depending if pistons suits and we can agree price).V-M
WTB: timing chaing tensioner
in For Sale / Want ads
Posted
Thats same as diesel version tensioner.
V-M