V-M
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Posts posted by V-M
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Thanks V-M!
I would like to know the torque for the cover.
And how do I measure the gear-cover clearance?
Thats easy, just put tight enough
There is no torgue for them but its not much cause those are only 6mm bolts (if I remember right).Clean gear place, gears and cover. Place cover sideways top of gear so at you can slip those (0.1mm) plates between cover and gear.
V-M
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STD size
Ah... sorry. As said earlier... I have only 0.1mm sets and bigger oversizes.
V-M
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These are general measures not direct for this engine but same type and same sized ones.
Gear - body 0.05 -> 0.15mm
Gear - gear 0.10 -> 0.20mm
Gear - cover 0.05 -> 0.10mm
What torgue? Pump to block? -> 20Nm Or are u meaning oilpump cover?
V-M
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What size bearings u need?
V-M
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Under 400hp eaven 2,5" enough... (atleast db should be that size)
Of cause if there is space... allways bigger is better. Originell pipe is 2,1"...
V-M
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We don't need to have cat on cars older than -91 :-). Like I said flow exhoust gas cools down so much at it goes smaller pipe size in end. And outlooking is like untouched ;-)
V-M
P.S Cat is no prob it only costs 90€ and its easy to add there if needed.
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Has anyone managed to squeeze in a 3 inch exhaust over the 505 rear crossmember? I'd like to get a new exhaust (or at least cat back) soon and it looks like a very tight squeeze. Dont want to go side-exit as in the article in "505 tech". If 3 inch wont work I have this idea of going from a 3 inch front muffler to a Y adapter to 2 x 2.25 inch pipes (slightly more area than a 3 inch pipe) which run over the rear crossmember, one on top of the other, and then to another Y adapter and into a rear 3 inch ressonator/muffler. Any thoughts?
Nope... I have 3" from turbo to that narrow place and from there its 2,5" on last muffler (standard) and out is standand muffler...
See ->
I don't see any reason or benefit to make any bigger... from power perspective, gas cools down enough in that 3" pipe to flow that 2,5" and mufflers part. IMHO
V-M
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I just ment, weight that set which is going in. I think its just enough to check straightness on than main axel (mine was bend). I think at Tama was not doing it for this set... I think he did with lightned flywheel ealier set.
These engines are not going to rev over 8000rpm so... I don't think main axel balancing needed.
Currently I have not found any good source... they are available but price is closely to 250€ for set.
That differential thing is very pro work... It's possible tho.
V-M
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PM me a price for those std. size bearings.
Do you know what gear ratio the diesel differentials have?
Is it possible to swap the gears with those in my open diff.?
I'll make those sleeves anyway, it can't hurt and I can make them for free.
Seems at I don't have std ones. 0.1mm oversize is first.
Gas turbo has = 10 x 37
Diesels have = 11 X 35 and 13 X 43 (manual) and automat same as gas turbo.
V-M
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That piston thing
Someone has used some drilling machine (bad quality work btw) Remember weight those piston and rods... should not be more than 5g difference between sets (less if possible).
V-M
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I have spec stage 3 installed. Not driven it yet.
V-M
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Hi,
I have some original bearings...
Diesel diffrential have different ratio
I'd would not worry about that pending on that case, just make sure at axel dont move <-> more than spec.
V-M
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Well using saab rods is much more cost effective than modifying pug one's. Nic TAMA has done this set now with 92mm Volvo pistons and saab conrods. Easy and cheap compared to pug rods and custom pistons. And those saab+volvo parts can easily take 400hp.
V-M
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Saab bearings (same with Ford) don't fit on 505 turbo conrods... tested and measured. :-(
But saab conrods and bearings fits nicely on main cam
Surely those can be mached but thas not cost effectiv...
V-M
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Same FIC as I have... no difference on spooling.
V-M
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Engines are the same.
V-M
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Early 70's Saab fuel pressure regulator
That would be LE-jet regulator which is adjustable?
V-M
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I don't find my message from Peugeot-L anymore
I have digging this information years... gone trought massive amount of information sources.
These are options without any modifications to bearing holders
For Main bearing only alternative is Perkins Diesel engine 1.7L from 1958 ->
That bearing is too wide (31,88mm) and needs to be under size one.
(STD is 57.097-57.112mm) But size other ways is correct.
Originel bearing with is 24,67mm and holder is 27.8mm.
For ConRod only easy one is using Peugeot 205 (and talbot/simca) engine G1 G2 1309cc engine
mainbearings. Only problem is at there is 5 pairs in packet and only one pair is wide enough
so u need to buy 4 sets or use those narrow ones (18,5mm). Anyway those needs some modifications
also but wery minor ones (those wider ones are bit too wide to fit and lock pin is in wrong place).
I have done that ConRod thing for my monster engine with 4 sets of 205 bearings (did cost totally ~140e)
Reason was at main axcel was so good condition at I'didnt want to machine it so I did use std size.
Luckily I have many of those Original main bearing sets and also some original conrod sets (oversize).
And just for note. You can't use any other bearings (with close match) without fitting their outside size to mach bearing seat.
V-M
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Those are not mathing bearings at all. See my topic for clearance
V-M
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my friend's dad has one of those, and the paint is kinda faded.
Paint? Who the hell have been destroyed nice car?
V-M
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Wellcome, dam nice looking setup u have!
V-M
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Couple of comments. In comp.ratio 11:1 and turbos will result very high power and eaven shorter life for engine (maybe only one try). With good engine management and and knocking detection 9:1 will do nicely.
Then comment on that last post 240hp on wheels is not 300hp on flywheel. If 60hp is lost in between engine and wheels those things (gearbox and rear gear) will melt. Power loss in manual gear in between 8-12% and in automat 12-16% (I did use in calculation 16%).
V-M
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Hi,
Those eye lids was self made. Front spoiler was from BMW or some other brand? Side things was self made.
Owner can tell some details. U can find him by sending privat message to TAMA he is member here also.
So those are not any buy and install kits (he has done a lot of work to made them fit like that).
V-M
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I ment just that, if it was made from a raw cam or if it was a regrind.
Is it possible to get another cam regrinded to those specs? I might be interested in one of those.
What is the rocker ratio? 1.30?
I don't understand why you talk about lobe separation, since it hasn't been mentioned earlier in the thread.
Then how do you explain this?
Surely specs for that cam are available in grinder, I have one but I have to check if person who ordered it will still buy it
(I did ordered it 2 years ago and it have been in my carage shelf since).I don't remember was it 1.3 or 1.4...
Well it's time to talk then. Cause thats the point in that difference.
304 deg (well I didn't find how that was measured) there is big difference if thats is 0 lift or 0.05" lift degrees.
Sure you can make that work but driveability is surely poor but hi rev power can be nice... as can be seen.
Remember these are just my opinions and experience on engine building.
V-M
New engine for 505 turbo
in General Peugeot discussion
Posted
Finally head gasget have arrived... It did take bit long to arrive.
Here is info about manufacturer (they are also manufactoring Ferrari Modena pistons for ferrari factory):
Thats also one option to make new pistons for N9T engine, but cost is 170e/pcs
www.pistonispeciali.it
www.navalineasport.it
In top is gasget with rings and below is gasget skin without rings (just for future needs).
Rings are reusable ones.
Price was bit over 280e for that set
V-M