Leregulage

Sorry, the car was sold last year. The guy drove it home.

Fixed the speedo today, she flickers-but works. Have been using it as our everyday car. Really cleaned up nice with a wax, and wash. The car is amazing, you look down, and realize your going 90....Yet she is so refined. Solid underneath. Comes with many spare V6 stuff. Any Citroen GS,2cv,Traction-owners want the throbbing thrill of a V6? Adam.

We put the red rocket on Ebay. The pictures are all kinda grainy, camera must have had it.Will re shoot it all. Even put a new radio in it. The O2 sensor is on the way out, that revving is back after the first start, until it gets warm(1 minute). Have one on order. Runs perfect other wise. We did the R152A AC fill. It works well enough. This car has VASTLY exceeded my expectations in everyway . Pulls like a freight train! Makes a really good daily driver. Trades welcome. I really like 404's, and 504's-etc. Already done 203,403's. Got little interest for 405's. Any Trabant owners out there that would like to make the step to a 505? I could live with keeping this one, well until my license vanishes from all the speeding tickets. "I don't trust my self!" http://www.ebay.com/itm/222212695234?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Adam.

Well folks, the time is here. After much fiddling about, an many questions to the group's. https://www.flickr.com/gp/145885083@N02/48L491 The STX Auto is running well, and for sale . Had to go see that red turbo today in Arlington. Hi Karl! The V6 did perfect the whole way. Ran around 80 mph most of the time. 190 miles round trip. It has less than 140K miles. Was a CA car until 09. Even working A/C! Not that cold, but working. Zf 4spd Auto. Power locks, all windows work well. She handles, and rides perfect. The rotors are in very nice shape too The sun roof is stuck shut. Never messed with it. As of right now the speedo in the current cluster is not working, have the original one to go with it. Also many parts, hoses, ect. No real rust to speak of, just at the bottom of the windshield. The radio is not working. From time to time the Power steering still "turns off", must need another flushing. Was converted from ABS, to the standard setup. Works well enough. The main focus was on making it dependable again. I have essentially rebuilt the main systems on the car. The following is just a brief list: New: 4 Hole Injectors Fuel Pump Fuel Pressure Regulator Tank Feed lines Regulator hoses Coil Plugs Wires Ignition Module Crank Sensor(Karl did this one) Master cylinder Rebuilt calipers Brake Hoses Pads Hankook Tires A/c flush, then charge with Dust Off. Got all lights working ECU temp Sensor Gauge Temp Sensor Belts Relays Volvo ECU She see seems dependable, and willing. Not the best looking, but ready to go. If there is any interest, "make me an offer I can't refuse". Really wanting to just sell it out right, but trades are always considered. Need to focus on the other stuff out side for now. Le CX is nagging me to work on it. Adam.

We took the plunge today. She is now on the road! https://youtu.be/MzPwtlwkUYc Puttered around about 30 miles. I have to say, " It's way better than it should be!". Drives perfect, the brakes bedded in. Now stops well. Even rides decent. Trans shifts just perfect. Doesn't overheat(well no temp gauge, but oil temp was perfect). There are still some issues.. From just off idle, it will almost die. If one hits the pedal quick, then that works well. I put the wheel back on a bit cocked, easy enough to fix! The trip meter doesn't move Speedo has the shakes(she needs a lubing). No working radio Tackle the AC.... Since I have never been in another V6 505, it seems some more adjusting is in order. Now it is quick, but not fast.. Thats the only way to explain it! The HVAC fan is always on, with a whisper of air. That F-&^%ing power steering keeps acting up. We flushed it, but it twasn't enough. Might need a pump rebuild. I'm hoping driving it awhile will free it up. So all in all, it makes the last few months of torture worth it. After we drive off 1-2 tank fulls of gas, and it has no more-or worse issues. It will be in a for sale listing near you! Between this, a Citroen cx, Mercedes diesel, 505 Turbo diesel,parting out the 403 and keeping all of the other stuff going. It is just too much. Nobody else will drive my crap, so how many machines does one need? If we get it adjusted right, I'll report with my findings. Adam.

Popped a valve cover off today. For a lack of better words "It's squeaky clean!" Been a long time since the valves were touched. The gap shows it... Now its off to find some gaskets that fit... Enjoy some misc. pictures. Those new hoses, took a month from Sweden. It seems nobody ever has them stateside. Adam.

I used one of the bulbs from the cluster-to ask that ecu. At best It gave me one flash. Honestly, it acted more like a short. Tested the whole box, and circuit. So either the box, and or the servo is shot,, Now when the car was having those random shorts-I heard the servo running. So I unhooked it. Anyway the idle is finally down to a great level. The IAC valve was fried. She now has new injectors,fuel pump,filter, regulator,and 2 hoses attached to the regulator. Had to wait a month on those 2 from Sweden. It has a low idle miss. from 700-1200rpm. Then it clears out-past that range. Now that could be the Volvo box? Or the plug wires,coil-ignitor. Has new plugs. Probably a valve adjustment would do wonders! It starts with a roar-right to 1800rpm. Then comes down over 30 seconds to base idle. Looks like the main feed line from the fuel tank is bad. Its in between 3/8-1/2 inch hose. So like a 11mm id? This tank has no primer pump spot, just two hoses on the lower drivers side. The old pump had a crap load of metal shavings in it. The filter did it's job! Used a Volvo 245 pump. Bosch only of course. It had some push on type connector pins. So a 4mm die, threaded those baby's nicely. Replaced the bullet hole light lense. Also since it was/ is a ABS car. Are they ATE, or Bendix calipers? I'm getting some rebuild kits. My passenger front caliper has the bleeder cracked off. Might not be able to save it... Oh the joys of brake work. Adam.

You guys may be happy to know it now can move it self safely. Even has brakes on 3 of the 4 wheels too! https://youtu.be/O2JbI0vSycs Karl, that trans feels smooth. I think it is in fine condition. Swapped in a new master cylinder. The old one had shat it self and leaked every where. This is the time I'm so glad it has the regular booster... Now thinking about the 85 505's in your driveway-master cylinder wise. Might be time to change yours! Really easy to do... Next on the agenda is to fix that fuel leak. Find out why the variable assist steering is doing nothing. Make different temp air blow out the ducts. A horn to go beep. Rebuild the calipers. Some new fuel regulator hoses just came in from Sweden a few days ago. The temp gauge is limp at the moment. The sunroof makes a nice CRUNCH when trying to move. On a side note, what is the little black ball, up near the front dome light? Is it just for looks? Adam.

I'm Baaack! Just had to do that.. Found a 88 Volvo 760 injection box for a really great price. Figured it would be worth the gamble. With simply installing it. IT LIVES AGAIN! Swapped the chip from the STX box to it, sounds very nice now. The boxes use the same exact board, connectors-etc. Just the mapping chips are 1 # off. All of the screwy things I mentioned about the relays went away. Enjoy the Video, and Misc. pictures. Adam. https://youtu.be/KZ818xZWgKM If one were to get a eprom programer, and a set of Euro boxes. Then everyone could easily have the extra HP by swapping a chip..

Yeah that sensor is new, and it tells the ignition to fire. With the newer fuse panel in, its no better-or worse. Found in playing with it the TPS is bad, had a good spare though. Short of the knock sensors keeping the car from starting(I don't think they can?), its in the wiring -or the ecu. Has anybody had luck with using the ecu's from the Volvo 2.8L? I know it would fit, but if it would be more, or less power is the question. I doubt its the exact same boxes with a different bosch number is it? Another box will be bought soon. Adam.

Hi Andre, yeah it was sitting for awhile. Though thank is squeaky clean. I wish it was simple as a clogged fuel system. I have a fuse panel on the way. Maybe that will solve most of the flaky electric issues. Besides that, then its the harness at fault. Has to be one or the other-at least for the rest of the problems. For what ever reason the injectors are not getting a signal to fire from the ECU, all those wires test just fine. I've read that about the euro ecu's. Would like to get a set of ecu's. Took a few days off of playing with it. Always found that one is closest to the answer,when it seems the farthest away. Adam.

Your probably quite right. On the MAF relay it gets grounded by the ECU. So it is getting power(infact all the relays are working perfectly). Anyway it gets its ground , but keeps it when the key is turned off. Until the batt is unhooked. I'm kinda at a loss as for what to check next. If its not the ecu, then it must be something in that harness. Or possibly the fuse panel is really flaky. Everything else on the car is randomly flaky as well. Hate to get rid of a car because of my ignorance of it. I'm waiting for that light bulb moment..... Adam.

Still playing around with it out there. The injectors aren't getting any power. On the injection ecu side. Thankfully they didn't fry with all of the issues. Powered just one by hand and the car sputtered fine. I'm leaning heavily towards the injection ecu has crapped out. Anybody have a fairly priced spare? Would love to get it running-for a proof of concept really. Don't know if it could be trusted to stay running.. Either way- it is for sale. It's quite a neat car, but plagued with electrical issues. Has a wee bit of rust at the bottom of the windshield-thats it. Clear Virginia title. Has around 138K miles. Ran very well a few weeks ago. Had the ABS unit swapped out for the standard booster unit. The front rotors are in very good shape. Comes with numerous other parts. A new set of modern 4 hole injectors are on it. Its in Virginia 22644. Feel free to make a reasonable offer if interested. I enjoy other French things, and odd cars as well. Would really like a diesel of some sorts. Had enough of electrical shorts for a while now.... Thanks for the help. Adam.

Rabin, I think you are a member of the Pug L list right? If not, then yes the relays are the right ones. Got the dash off today. Looks like the alarm button was just that, a button. Nothing else with it. I found a few more wires(only controlled the gauges). After some fiddling about with numerous jumper wires. I had spark and the fuel pumps running. No put put though. So that means the injection ecu is not getting power. The door buzzer randomly came on and off. I think I may have found the issue though for the randomness of things. Of course the mouse nibbles don't help. There are many wires broken, in the wire loom. Right where they are curled, or pulled to tight. In other words the majority of what goes to the relays, and fuse box is having issues. The connectors seem just fine. Now I could say F-it, and wire the engine relays,ecus & stuff by hand, and I bet it would work fine. Till something else goes to crap. Got some real thinking to do.. Its way too nice to part out. Yet I don't feel like having it strand me in some remote location. Fix each circuit one by one? All joking aside- anybody that has something French, and Automatic. Drop me a line if the STX tickles your fancy. Thanks for the help, Adam.

Oh I'm sure there is more! Its the whole thing of- the relays get powered when cranking, then stay powered until no batt. The MAF is grounded when this is happening. I checked all of the wires in between the ecus. With everything hooked up(fuse panel). There is 12v -when the switch is off(switch tests good). So it is back feeding somewhere on the always hot wire. In any other car, I would look at the wiring diagram further. Though for this it is more of educated guesses what wire does what. Adam.

Regrouped, and went wire by wire for the injection, and ignition ecu's. Used the pin-outs as my guide. All of those wires are ok. I thought I fried most everything(was just a diode). Anyway after plugging back in the fuse panel, now my door chime , and variable steering pump is on. The 3 main relays are off, until the key is cranked. Then they stay on(all of them!) with the key off, until batt. is un-hooked. So I think it could be one of the following- Fuse panel A brake in a wire somewhere Injection ecu Ignition ecu Anyone fancy a guess?

Just got done fixing those wires. Really only 3 were chewed through. Now the Windshield washer works. So thats something I guess. Still not running- no spark again... The new relays haven't fixed anything so far. Noticed with the key off, the coil has 12v+. "That ain't right!" Anyone reading this have a turbo diesel engine for a 505? Might take away from the whole point of an STX. At least it could stay running!. Adam.

Found the right wiring diagrams yesterday, so I started a-new. For what ever reason I had a thought to open up the fuse box. Wonder what I found? At the fire wall one of the looms is half way chewed through too! I hate to say this but, "The dash may have to come out" Found some broke fuel gauge connectors too. A turbo diesel is looking better, and better... Adam.

Yeah that was my idea as well. Either way new relays are on the way. I found a Francais pinout of the injection box(very detailed). I've noticed the "factory" wiring diagrams-from the Haynes book, left a lot of things out... Of course it is for a 4cly too. Checked everything over on the gauge pack. Still no luck. I suppose all the gauges could have issues, and non are related-but I doubt it. Thankfully I just found the rest of those French wiring manuals. Now it begins.. Adam.

Learned a few things today with it. For what ever reason once the car is cranked, the relays stick on(until batt is unhooked). Plus no power is getting to Le pompe'. So me thinks the relays just may very well be crap, and or: There is a nasty short- One of the ECU's said goodnight- Its haunted..- Or a turbo diesel should be put in place(A low hiss can be heard from the crowd)... They say 12v/25a, only replacements I've found are 30amp. Should be just fine though. Adam.

Karl sent me a link with Ikenna's relay tips. http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/2850-just-purchased-1987-peugeot-505-stx/&do=findComment&comment=21587 Well The relay that was stuck on is the MAF one. Seems the switched 12v wire, is not switched any more. Its always on now! I believe it is wire 20c. I take it the injection box controls this,yes? Gonna clean the connectors. Things aren't right in who-ville! Adam.

I'll check that, but me thinks its much more of an issue. A new one popped up today. I have been starting it off and on(testing things). Until it finally would not fire any more. I literally shut the key off, and not 5 minutes later she won't run. Cranks fine, perfect spark. So its fuel related. I noticed one of the yellow relays above the fuse box(closest to the pass. side). was quite hot, and was activated-even when the ignition was off. Only un clicked when the batt. was un done. Still no further with that dash... My guess is the fuel pump, and or injection ecu stuff crapped out on me.. Time will tell I guess. Adam.

I'll check that ground. Say on the fuel sender wires. If I had wire #65 up at the cluster, shouldn't #65 in the trunk be the same wire? I'm curious about this. I would think it should be the same(I use this as an example). If so there are many things wrong... Those yellow relays above the fuse box. What do they go to? Somebody has added 2 extra.. I bet it has something to do with tricking all the ABS stuff to stay off..... Also noticed wire #AC has no power(from ignition switch-to gauge cluster). The grounds are good(according to the plug terminals). Maybe on the track of it. Also, so I wouldn't go blind. I figured out how to blow up the wiring diagrams. So 1 book page is now 4. Have it taped to large poster board. Helps a lot! The little thing around the dash switches-is it an alarm light? Says un-co or something.. Adam.

https://youtu.be/-T_-F6kzxi8

Had a peak out there about my gauge issues. After drooling at the Haynes wiring diagrams. "I finally understand them!" Where are the ground trees on these stx's? I know of besides the radiator. I switched out the mass sensor. It then started to idle down.. Might have been part of me problem... Going with the theme of not knowing enough about it- Are the front calipers the same on this(ABS), as another 505? Thankfully somebody years ago took pitty upon the car, and fitted a trusty master cylinder. I wonder if the same person had a hand in the dash issue. Only two out of all the misc, stuff lights up. Adam.