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I did the breaker bar with a deep socket approach. Getting it off the first time was a real hassle! Any recommendations on what to clean the groundtrees with once I get them off?

Thanks for the quick responses. I'll post some introductory stuff when I have a few moments. So I'm least concerned about the odometer. And "backwards" was not quite right. It actually runs in reverse dial order. Super strange. If there's some sort of chronological phenomenon associated with that, I certainly don't wish to take part! I'll try swapping some bulbs, and when it warms up a bit I'll tackle cleaning the ground trees. They're definitely calcified and oily, so I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to give them a going over. Any tips on getting them out and what to clean them with? Inspecting the speedo cable will have to wait... I'm having some nasty starter issues. I guess that will be my next post.

There are three problems with my instrument cluster: Long ago the odometer starting going crazy-town and it runs backwards now. Fine. Whatever. This story begins when the dash illumination lights went out. First one bulb, then the other. I've been using a clip on light, and I finally got to looking at it over the weekend. I partially pulled the panel to do a basic visual inspection since they're on top. The soft circuit *looks* fine (though there is certainly wear to where they twist), and for magic-voodoo-reasons the lights have come on and cut off independently and randomly but they don't stay on. The bulbs *look* fine too. Sort of stuck on that one. So I put the panel back in, and finish up for the day So the next day my wife, who is the regular driver, tells me the speedometer stopped working. The tachometer works fine, but the speedometer sit's limply at the bottom. So tonight I fought the wheel bravely, and managed to pull it off and got the whole cluster out. The cables are all on securely, and I can see the end of the speedo cable waiting earnestly in it's socket. Then when I plugged it back in the, "dim" headlight light was out. Rats! So apparently it's some sort of quantum problem where by inspecting the problem caused more problems. Anyone have experience debugging their instrument cluster? Dash lights and speedometer are 'safety' things so I'd like them to work again. I'd appreciate some recommendations on how I might proceed.