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Tama

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Posts posted by Tama

  1. Holset HX40 is really good turbo. They are really efficient at 30 + PSI,in DSM world (depending on head-cam work) we get 400-650 AWHP out off them. Any internal work done?

    You mean internal engine mods?

    Here is an old list of the modifications made:

    - Volvo 2,1l Turbo (B21ET) 92,5mm Mahle pistons. (Pistons are lowered so that they come ~1mm over the block level at TDC

    - Block machined for those pistons

    - Lightened Saab 900 Turbo rods (Any saab with B or H engine (2L) from 75-> 90's, 99 and 900 model). Grinding the crankshaft to the right bearing size is needed

    - Grinded Dans cam + lash caps

    - Ported head

    - Head casket with separate "rings" from http://www.navalinea....it/home_eg.htm They know N9T casket since I've sent one used casket there as a model. I've ordered several caskets from them.. to V-M as well

    - Garrett T03/4, comp. wheel 60/86 mm, exh. 65/76 mm, A/r .8. The turbo works just perfectly in the engine! Full 1,4 bar boost is already at 3000 rpm and it creates sensitivily boost with smaller rpm's as well. Way better than the previous TO3/4...

    - Big front mounted cooler

    - 3"/2,5" exhaus with one muffler

    - 465ml/min Bosch injectors

    - Lightened Flywheel

    - Eaton clutch set with 4 piece? sinter clutch

    - Vems Round Wideband lambda&EGT (EGT sensor not installed)

    - Megasquirt MSII (msq file can be sent if someone needs)

    - Ford wasted spark system (can be found from Sierra, Escort, Mondeo, Fiesta etc.)

    - Ford Sierra Cosworth fuel pressure regulator

    -Trottle position sensor changed (cant remember eather the car or the code. If needed I'll check)

    - 18-1 trigger wheel with Honeywell hall sensor

    - Ford Sierra Cosworth MAT sensor

    - 50mm dump valve

    - "Colder" spark plugs (Bosch heat rate 6)

    Those are the mods that quicly comes to my mind.. There are probably hundreds of smaller mods that are not listed but I'll try add them as well when they come to my mind...

    -Tama

  2. Nice looking 505. Have you ever dyno it?.

    Unfortunately I have had some clutch problems and I didnt go to the dyno yet.. the clutch slips only with the 4th and 5th gear... maybe next summer..

    The turbo is now Holset HX 40 Super and the boost is 1.3-1.45 bar

  3. very nice! :) the gold goes very well with the color scheme of your car. these rims are not 140 pcd, are they? do you use adapters or have you modified your hubs?

    tama, it gets very cold in your part of the world, doesn't it? do you have a separate set of wheels and tires for winter, or do you not drive the car at that time of year?

    it's very exciting to see such a well-loved, heavily modified 505!

    andré

    Thanks guys!

    The rims are 4x100 and they are fitted by using custom made adapters. Adapters are mounted to the original hub and they are 25 mm thick. The wheels are 16" and 7,5" wide in front with ET38 and 9" wide with ET20. The rear wheel is REALLY close to the rear fender so I might need to take few millimeter from the adapter...

    The clutch only slips in full throttle and only with 4th and 5th gears.. With 3rd the wheels start to slip, no the clutch especially when wet.. :)

    Andre: Yes, In Finland we use winter tires because we get heavy snow during the winter.. Usually the winter months are from November to April.. I used to drive the in the wintertime as well but now a days I drive it only in summer time to prevent rusting..

    Bean: Let me know if you need something information! I will give you all my megasquirt setups if needed... And of course for everyone else as well.. :) just ask..

    -Tama

  4. New rims... The car has been working quite well now for more than two years with 1,5 bar boost so apparently I've done something right when building and tuning the engine.. The only problem is that I have a oil leak in the énd of the crank shaft or at the gearbox resulting to make the clutch slip with the 4th and 5th gears. The slipping appears only once in a while which makes it weard... No I tried "thicker" engine oil and it seems to work bit better..

    -Tama

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  5. Quote

    Here is a short list about the engine modifications:

    - Volvo 2,3l Turbo (B23ET) 92,5mm Mahle pistons. (Pistons are lowered so that they come ~1mm over the block level at TDC

    Want to know more about what you mean by 1mm over the block level @ TDC? Do you mean the pistons needed shaving and how much? Can't really tell in the pic if the pistons are concaved?

    Also I see V-M has used 95mm pistons, wondering what those are use in?

    I priced up the piston through my uncle that works @ the Volvo dealer, $300 for the whole 92.5MM piston kit...

    Sorry about the bad pictures. Pistons are concaved and I made spots for the valves as well so that they dont hit the piston.

    I ment that when the pistons are in their most upper position they come a bit (~1mm) over the block level. hmm.. cant tell it better.. :) The idea is to reduce the pressure from the head caskets down side.

  6. Tama - do you have any detailed engine build pirtures?

    Also - If you want to have your own album in our gallery let me know and I'll set you up with one. It'd be nice to have all your pics in one for easy reference. :) If it's too big of a pain - I'd be happy to do it for you if you send them direct. (Or upload to my home server)

    Rabin

    Hello Rabin,

    Creating an album sounds good! How do I send my photos to you? I could probably upload them to your server since I dont have any servers myself?

    I'm sorry to say that I dont have many detailed pictures from the newest engine. I'll check and send you whatever I have. I have plenty of pictures from the engine from past years but the setup has been different..

    -Tama

  7. Main problem is pistons, piston is allways broken first not rings. N9T piston is bad quality IMHO. I can show some pictures of pile of N9T pistons where edge between 1 and 2 ring is broken. Someting like 20 pistons I have trown to metal circulation and I still have pile of them at home.

    There is no that problem in Volvo pistons at all.

    V-M

    I've had problems with both piston rings and pistons... Those where the main reason for changing to Volvos pistons.

    -Tama

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  8. - Lightened Saab 900 Turbo rods (if I remember correct the lenght is 133mm or 134mm... Fits to 505 turbo crankshaft very easily)

    What modification has do be done to fit the rods bearing? Grinding the crankshaft? What size of the bearings did you use?

    Thanks for a good topic! :)

    I cant remember the exact size of the bearings. My crankshaft was already grinded once before so I had to take some oversized bearings. There are no problems to fit Saab bearings to 505 crankshaft.

    Grinding the crankshaft is enough.

    Thanks for V-M about the more detailed information about those rods!

    -Tama

  9. EXCELLENT!

    Thanks very much Tama... :) I especially am interested in the engine mods you've done. The Saab 900 connecting rods in particular. If they're that close - I'm hoping some lighweight forged aftermarket ones would be the treat. Big question though is if you used Peugeot rod bearings or Saab ones?

    From the rest of the specs I would think 300 HP is very doable. Any idea on what the compression ratio ended up being?

    VERY curious to see what kinds of numbers you see on the dyno. Also - I'm curious how much more is left in it with more tuning of the MSII... :)

    Rabin

    Hello Rabin

    I used saab rod bearings. They fit to 505 crankshaft easily. and those rods fit straight to volvos pistons.

    I never calculated the exact compression ratio but I assume its about 8.1

    -Tama

  10. Hello!

    I was asked to make a new topic about the engine modifications I've done to my 505 turbo. I'm sorry about my english because I dont know all the right words for every parts i've used..

    I'll update the topic whenever I have time and I'll add some pictures aswell.

    I'm now running the engine @ 1,4 bar boost and its working very nice. No knocking or anything which could break the engine. I'm going to dyno asap so that we will see how much power this engine has. I hope that I would be able to get 300+ hp, but at this point I doubt it... The turbo might a bit too small but lets see..

    Here is a short list about the engine modifications:

    - Volvo 2,1l Turbo (B21ET) 92,5mm Mahle pistons. (Pistons are lowered so that they come ~1mm over the block level at TDC

    - Block machined for those pistons

    - Lightened Saab 900 Turbo rods (Any saab with B or H engine (2L) from 75-> 90's, 99 and 900 model). Grinding the crankshaft to the right bearing size is needed

    - Grinded Dans cam + lash caps

    - Ported head

    - Head casket with separate "rings" from http://www.navalineasport.it/home_eg.htm They know N9T casket since I've sent one used casket there as a model. I've ordered several caskets from them.. to V-M as well

    - Garrett T03/4, comp. wheel 50mm, exh. 50mm, A/r .63

    - Big cooler, custom made (about 50X40X8cm)

    - 3"/2,5" exhaus with one muffler

    - 465ml/min Bosch injectors

    - Lightened Flywheel

    - Eaton clutch set with 4 piece? sinter clutch

    - Vems Round Wideband lambda&EGT (EGT sensor not installed)

    - Megasquirt MSII (msq file can be sent if someone needs)

    - Ford wasted spark system (can be found from Sierra, Escort, Mondeo, Fiesta etc.)

    - Ford Sierra Cosworth fuel pressure regulator

    -Trottle position sensor changed (cant remember eather the car or the code. If needed I'll check)

    - 18-1 trigger wheel with Honeywell hall sensor

    - Ford Sierra Cosworth MAT sensor

    - 50mm dump valve

    - "Colder" spark plugs (Bosch heat rate 6)

    Those are the mods that quicly comes to my mind.. There are probably hundreds of smaller mods that are not listed but I'll try add them as well when they come to my mind...

    -Tama

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  11. OK - I'll ask... :blink:

    You and VM are an inspiration, so any details that you care to list off would be more than appreciated. I only ask that you start a new thread of your own so that it's easily found and referenced. :)

    I also can't wait to hear what kinds of numbers your car puts out at 1.4 bar!

    Rabin

    Ok I'll make a new topic asap with all the details I can remember about the engine.

    -Tama

  12. Holy crap - didn't know that at all... Hope no one was hurt.

    Ben makes nice stuff, for sure. I think the best result for the 505 would be to get him a car, but with enough info it could be done with sending front struts and pictures of the rear suspension.

    I'm not quite ready to dump that into suspension so I decided to back off and get the stuff I have on my plate done first, build up some funds and then chase down the suspension. I want to be in a place that once I find a supplier, I can pull the trigger...

    Rabin

    Hello!

    I have in front Volvo 240 dsl front springs shortened about 1 "ring" or what you guys call them.. :blink:

    And in the rear I have Mercedes 190 front springs. If I remember correct....

    -Tama

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  13. Hey!

    Now I've been tuning the car more and more and I'm waiting to get a dyno time.

    Now the engine is set to run @1,4 bar boost and its working great. There is no knocking and everything seems to work perfectly. I'm running the engine bit rich to prevent knocking and keeping the engine cooler. Now the mixture is 11.2 AFR at 1,4 bar boost. The normal running area is tuned to 14.7-15.6 AFR.

    My only worry is the gearbox and the rear differential but lets see how they last..

    If someone needs some info about the engine, please ask.

    -Tama

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  14. From the front of the car to the back, compression in psi are as follows

    95

    23

    24

    27

    (problem? I think so)

    Opening the coolant, it smells like its 100% gasoline. Therefore the headgasket is bad and Its big enough that I'm losing compression and gas to the coolant system.

    Furthermore, the plugs that I took out of it were carbon fouled, Since I'm getting some popping / backfiring at high rpm's, the intake valves are not making a seal and closing all the way from carbon buildup, or valves are bent (I dont believe this is an interference motor so thats not a problem).

    Intentions are as follows:

    Remove head and replace gasket, my friend goes to school at lincoln tech, he says for free I can have the head cleaned, port and polished, pressure tested and returned to me for no charge. Meanwhile I can clean and paint all the other parts in the engine bay as well as clean up any sensors that come off during removing the head.

    my questions are:

    Does anyone have a walkthough on head removal?

    How are the piston rings on these cars? Is it a chance they're bad?

    I broke the original upper piston ring from every sylinder last summer. They were quite new (20 000 km) and also the second ring broke from cylinder 4.

    The head is easy to remove, remember to lock the chain tightener before taking the chain off. And dont drop the chain into the motor...

  15. But man, where is the air cleaner for the Turbo?! Sure way to destroy your turbo! And while the body kit isn't ugly I like the original bumpers better.

    Of course I use air cleaner when I drive.. But when im taking pictures it's nice to see the compressor wheel to estimate how big is the turbo...

  16. In Finland we have plnty of e30s! That is the most RWD car among young people. Here's few pictures of my friends e30. I think it's one the nicest e30 I've seen. After he got it ready he sold and started new project. Now he has very fast BMW 635 -82 with big turbo..

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  17. Cool! If the outside diameter is bigger, then the rods can just be machined to accept them - common practice when an engine spins a bearing...

    I'll have to track down a set now...

    If that takes care of the rod bearings, then all we need is a replacement for the main bearings, and the engine should be rebuildable without too much trouble.

    Tama - can you advise what part number the 505 Gasket was? I downloaded their catalog - but no listing for the N9TE was listed. It'd be a nice start - and I like the idea of a modern gasket like that rather than using a copper one now...

    Thanks!

    Rabin

    Hello beam,

    They make custom gaskets just to fit your use. This gasket can not be found from their catalog.

    I sent the old gasket as a model and they made the gasket from the model. I adjusted a bit the thickness though... My gasket is a bit thicker than the original.

    -Tama

  18. Sorry Tama to fill my self on answers ;)

    Any way that same address you can order custom pistons pretty deasant price, High quality turbo and race use.

    V-M

    Thanks for the help, because my English is not that good I really need some help to tell things clearly and understandable.

    I'll get my pistons back tomorrow and I'll probably call you V-M and ask some advice how to smooth those edges after machining. Is sand paper ok?

  19. Thanks V-M for the answer.

    Like V-M told the rod fits to the piston without modifications.

    I ordered that head gasket from Italy from http://www.navalineasport.it/

    In finland we have a contact person who supply those gaskets. The gasket to turbo use cost 180 euros = 260 USD (now the dollar is really weak) with shipping. Those rings are reusable like V-M said and the rest of the gasket costs 80€ if you want to order it separately.

    I think the gasket can handle lots of boost, the weakest part are the pistons, piston rings and the head. Knocking will kill the motor as I had to experience...

    -Tama

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