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Turbo-Diesel modifications


Yq397r

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I know tunning and modifying diesel powered 505s is somewhat pointless since they only have 80-95hp and 140/150lbs of torque, but I'm interested in getting some extra power out of my engine. I hopefully want to tour cross country with it and I want it to have plenty of passing power when I need it. If I can make it to 200lbs of torque I will be more than happy. :D

My peugeot is powered by the XD2S 2.3L turbo-diesel four cylinder engine. Currently the only modifications I have done to it performance wise are rebuilt Bosch mechanical fuel injection with 15% fuel flow increase and aluminized 3" turbo-back performance exhaust. It runs pretty good, but since I have a spare engine to rebuild I might as do what I can to beef it up.

Has anyone here ever performed any turbo modifications to a diesel powered peugeot? I'm interested in upgrading from the garrett air-research Ta0302 turbo to something larger, or maybe building a frontmount intercooler. Just wondering if it has ever successfully been done to a XD2S or a XD3T diesel peugeot. Any technical info, guides, and pictures would be very appreciated.

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Hi, Yq397r

How much boost are you running? With the upgrades you've performed, plus an air -> air intercooler, I think you should be able to accomplish 200lb. ft. of torque. I've heard of XD2S running higher boost (not sure of the exact number) which was supposedly compareable to a early generation 505 turbo gas.

I'll see if I can get some more info for you.

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Sweet, any extra info would be great. My autometer boost guage has peaked as high as 29psi. That was on the interstate on a cooler day (car was running very well, right after a tune up if i remeber correctly). Usually it seems to peak more like 24-26psi. My current head gasket has a leak in it somewhere that I patched with Bar's stop leak, which actually worked really well. But I try not to beat on it to hard because of that. Hopefully sometime with in the next year I'll completley go through and rebuild/upgrade my spare XD2S cylinder head.

319350_49_full.jpg

^^^not quite peaked ^^^

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Unless the injection pump has been tweaked to supply the fuel to accompany the extra boost pressure, you will not be realizing the full potential of that boost pressure. Instead your engine is likely just enjoying a whole lot of extra air. With the compression ratio being 21:1, too much boost pressure can actually distort the spray pattern from the injectors and result in decreased performance, so as with all things in life, moderation is key.

From the factory, the boost compensation aneroid on the XD2S's pump supplies a fixed ranged of "enrichment" and reaches maximum at about 620 mBar over atmospheric pressure. As luck would have it, the unit on the XD3T pump is a little more flexible.

Anyway, you can adjust the maximum delivery on the XD2S pump. On the back of the pump there is a 13mm lock nut (I think) with a 7mm screw... it is located close to the engine block, just above the fuel shutoff solenoid. You may have to remove the tamper-proof wire from the screw. Very small adjustments of the 7mm screw result in rather large changes in fuel delivery--and it changes everything across the board. You will probably have to adjust your idle speed.

Turning the screw clockwise results in more fuel delivery, turning it counter-clockwise results in less fuel delivery. The theory is that you set the screw so that you get a bit of visible black smoke under WOT full boost acceleration, but not to the point of being a viscous opaque cloud.

Keep an eye on your boost pressure because it will likely increase when more fuel is being burned. FYI, with the wastegate hose disconnected and the fuel system in stock mode, the boost pressure usually peaks somewhere in the low to mid 20 psi range.

Adjusting the screw too far clockwise may render the engine incapable of returning to idle, so check this by blipping the throttle a bit as you are adjusting. If the engine speed hangs or takes too long to settle down to idle, you've gone too far and but back the screw out a bit.

Also remember that doing this will greatly affect cylinder pressures, exhaust temperatures, etc... Overboosting a diesel generally isn't a big deal (unlike on a gas motor), but giving it the fuel to go along with the overboost can cause problems if you try to do too much.

Another thing to do in addition to all this is to adjust the maximum throttle stop screw a bit. Back it out so the throttle can open a little more than stock and then adjust the throttle rate so the pedal is a bit more sensitive. Slide the throttle cable attaching point closer to the fulcrum of the throttle lever--this can be done by loosening the 7mm lock nut underneath.

I did a lot of experimenting on my '82 TD (Smurf), but I run it bone stock now and off of biodiesel. Smurf is getting old and tired, I would like to replace it with another Peugeot diesel. I have my eyes on an old 504 or a newer 505 XD3T.

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  • 5 years later...

Thats some great information. I will do my best to try and adjust it slightly, thanks for the help!

Is there any way to get a wiring diagram for this car? I have the same exact one, but my lights and horn won't work. As well as the ac and heater fans. Everything else seems to work fine. Car has 170xxx on it.

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505 turbo diesel man, could be just the combo switch that these components work from. Could also be the grounding for both located behind the plastic vacuum canister on the drivers side of the radiator. There you will find the headlight relay besides the AC relay. Directly above them are the grounding connections to the body.

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  • 7 months later...

post-1181-0-00624500-1333167130_thumb.jpJust get one of these (XD3TE)..it'll give you 110hp (some references say 115hp). The intercooler is a good idea even if it isn't factory.

There just isn't much to be done to mechanical diesel FI systems or IDI engines. There are larger pump components available but you'll have to do the research on that. It might pay to figure out how large your existing pump is and see about having a custom pump built for it...or building one yourself. There are also different nozzles available for the injectors that might add a little umph to it. There's a lot of good IP info on the VW sites, like Turbodiesel.com, and the Benz diesel guys often discuss IP mods on Superturbodiesel.com IIRC. Since a lot of these old IDI diesel engines share components there's a wide variety of stuff out there to pick from.

good luck!

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Hi Glen,

I've been researching things to do to my 86 XD3T 505 wagon, and I've been told the stock IP can support ~140HP with tuning.

I don't want a super fast diesel, but having one that's very responsive AND clean burning would be ideal. Hoping to pick up the car this weekend if all goes well so that I can start getting it sorted out and running as nice as possible totally stock. I definitely want to add an intercooler though - so thanks very much for the picture! It's a great view to see how they set it up - it's so much better than the crappy EGR mess we got.

If it's not what I want - I've been checking out what it would take to install a Garrett VNT turbo off a VW TDi using a stand alone VNT controller. :)

Rabin

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Hey Rabin,

If you have the chance to remove the head, I'd recommend cleaning up the ports. The casting on most XD heads I've seen is pretty rough. I think some mild port smoothing and maybe lathing the valve guides, as well as port/manifold matching would help a lot.

Reducing turbocharger inertia is something I'd look into. Whether it's a better bearing assembly and/or cropping the turbine wheel, I think reducing turbo lag even more would do wonders for the turbodiesels.

As far as boost is concerned, the XD3T is a much better candidate for higher boost because the pistons actually have small oil reservoirs under each crown to help cooling and distributing heat. So it sounds like you are off to a good start :P

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No reason to pull the head off, but if I can find an XD2S exhaust manifold I want to match port the exhaust manifold at the very least. The VNT turbo would be an ideal upgrade for this car - but I may put that off for a bit...

The kick down cable was not set up properly at all and was essentially not being pulled at all! Damn car was upshifting so quick is almost always in 4th which is why it was so slow. Adjusted the throttle pivot closer to the fulcrum and adjusted the kick down cable to suit. Transmission finally shifts properly and the car feels down right peppy. Turbo is spooling now, and the car is more than fast enough for daily driving duties.

There was some sand on some pavement so I came to a stop on it and punched it. Both tires spun a little until the boost built up and then it spun them pretty hard with a little powerslide happening... :D

Even WOT smoke doesn't seam to be detectable - so now I'm more focused with getting the car gone over to improve the under-hood electrical and the coolant lines / routing. EGR delete, and making the car dead reliable are the priorities now.

Once I get the car 100% - then I'll look at doing the VNT turbo with stand alone controller, but it's not a priority now that the car is decently quick.

Rabin

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Fun? Heck no Jeff - I was merely testing the efficacy of the changes I made to the throttle response and kick down cable adjustment. :D

OK! I was hooning with the new found "power" that a properly shifting transmission allows. :) Funny enough - this was done in the Walmart parking lot this morning when I was measuring batteries. I went back there this afternoon and the twin tire marks were still there. LSD diffs rock...

Rabin

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  • 2 years later...

Jeff - if you could post the proper procedure that would be great - I just did it by trial and error.

You have to be very careful though because if it's set too aggressive the shift cam rolls over center and gets stuck at the WOT setting. :) (You need to pull pan and reset it)

Rabin

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