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New engine for 505 turbo


V-M

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Congratulations V-M!

I look forward to finally hearing some dyno numbers once you get it all sorted out. Sounds like it's going to be a monster for sure!

Rabin

Thx! :P

Dyno have to wait to next summer... winter time will go just having some driving and then adding and testing new setup.

V-M

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Inspection done and approved :-) Only Oxygen level was too high (max.5) but that was easy to fix, one IC pipe was leaking.

Mega installation is still waiting... I'll put info available when I start that one.

But driving is nice :lol: No grip at all... not eaven 3 gear :P And here is no snow yet...

V-M

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That's AWESOME!

I can't wait to hear more as this is the first "monster" N9TE build I've ever heard of. Sure the race cars back in the 80's, or the Dani cars - but nothing remotely recent.

It's also fantastic motivation to continue with my plan to do something similar. So what did you figure displacement was again?

Rabin

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  • 1 year later...

Monster is ROARING again :( Finally I did found some motivation to fix it togeter (parts have been there for nearly 1,5 years), ecept I did found at con rod upper bearing was totally worn out from all rods, and those were made same time as engine was build. So those vere driven only under 1000km. Those was made from wrong material. Now those are made from correct one. Running in video 600rpm...

Monster_engine_run

V-M

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V-M! Nice to see you back, and AWESOME to hear you have resurrected the MONSTER!

Sadly your link for the vid isn't working. I tried to figure it out by searching the site for the vid, but no luck.

Rabin

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Bingo! Link worked, and the car sounds great!

Very quiet, and smoot idle - and no hint or give away for the monster that lurks under that hood! Can't wait for details on future dyno results and your driving impressions once she's broken in and you have some seat time in it.

Under hood looks very tidy as well - very nice work on all the mods. Can't wait to hear and see how this car roars now...

Rabin

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  • 1 month later...

Car has now yearly inspection done and I can drive it on roads legaly now :-) Still oil and water are their places as they should so it's looking good. In winter time I'll install that programmable engine management and 600cc injectors. So dyno will be in next summer. Propably I'll change also turbo to bit better one...

V-M

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Did drove 100km with it and IT did that again. Now I give up with it and build new engine with smaller pistons :blink:

V-M

Coolant in the oil again?

Such a shame - I was really hoping to see some monster numbers out of this engine... Ah well - when you're pioneering a build like this, these things tend to happen more than one would like.

Do you think it might be better had you done custom rods so that the block didn't have to be decked so much? I really like the idea of running 96mm pistons if the block can take it, so if the deck stayed the same height I would think you shouldn't have as many issues... That assumes the block withstood the 4mm overbore.

Keep us posted on progress.

Rabin

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That's odd... Same symptom as the cracked head... Hopefully you'll know for sure on it's next tear down.

Any temptation to vent the cooling system and still try for some numbers on a dyno?

Rabin

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  • 3 years later...

Not opened engine since then, started it few weeks ago and it runs nicely (2-3min) but oil and water are mixed, but I dont want to destroy bearings and main axel by running engine. But good news is at garage is now cleaned for getting 505 in and start looking reason for continuous probs.

But I have put some serious thoughts for twin turbo idea... but these t25 and t17 could be too big ones to use, maybe use some new diesel turbos in stead. Lets see...

But first is to find out current prob, could be at I just put one of std engine there to move and use car in winter time.

V-M

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I just read about your coolant leak. Very disappointing. I know how you feel as I just had to change a broken piston before it wrecked another engine! Bean is keen to use 94mm pistons in his build so I've run some Dynosim numbers on that for him but, another way is to stroke the crank by offset grinding to give more stroke. Only 1mm more gives more torque.I'm running 9.2 static at 1 bar to 6000 rpm now on a 88 x89 ZDJ/L engine I've turboed. I'm thinking that a turbo from a SAAB 2.1 or 2.3 would be close to perfect for what we want, wouldn't it? I used to work on them in the late 80's and early 90's so I have forgotten a lot since then but I do recall the weapon they had in the 9000 with a 2.3 turbo. Do you know what those turbos were?

We could run a Sim on your next engine before you start. It seems quite accurate compared to my engine spec and it will run tests on cam timing to get best torque between whatever revs you want. It is quite interesting.
Stewart

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Some short info about Saab turbos (Garrets and Mitsubishi) Early models before -94 used mainly Garret T03 (and some early also mitsu TD04 models), -94 -> 98 Used Garret T25 (pretty good response range and power ~280Hp from 2,3L engine) and Mitsu TD04HL-15T on aero models (good one also and can do ~300hp). -> Newer models used GT17 (pretty good response but good only max 200hp and very bad to rebuild and waste of money). Mitsu TD04 models used these newer are pretty good and can do around 300-340Hp. This is just rough summary and I'm talkin about saab engines 2.0L and 2,3L and engine power not wheel power. V6 saab is crappy engine in over all, I dont even count that on listing. You can find some real dyno results from my engines and engine stats to make some comparison. And of cause feel free to ask :D

I'm thinking to rebuild 2 of those Garret T25 and make new exhaust for them, cause I have some of those on storage :)

V-M

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Seeing V-M and Stewart discussing N9TE modification has absolutely made my week!

V-M is the one I blame for most for starting my AADD (Automotive Attention Deficit Disorder), and for spending hours and hours thinking about how to improve these engines.

Stewart rekindled these thoughts, and caused hours and hours of sleep hours to be lost researching new combos...

With both of you now chatting I'm in real trouble! :)

My '00 Volvo V70R (261HP stock) runs a TD04HL-19T and its known as a rod bender as it can spool very fast. My 2006 V70R (300HP stock) runs a K24 turbo and it spools very fast, but is known to be much more stable and more controllable.

Both these turbos would be very good, but I'm either running the Borg Warner EFR 6258/6758, or the GTX2860R turbo as these new T25 turbos are leagues better than the older technology.

My power goal is 300 RWHP, so I think the modified stock manifold will be sufficient. It's a beautifully cast log manifold that should have fast spool, yet still flow well enough for my power goals. I'll get some detailed pictures for Stewart to check out.

Rabin

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  • 1 year later...

Back in track, some things happened with new engine. Block machined for Volvo 92mm pistons and main axel for 0,1mm over size and conrods (saab) for saab 0,25mm over size.

New pistonrings came today so all parts are ready for complete build. Will see in next week if have motivation enough to start final fittings and measurements.

1. block with new paint

2. main axel canals cleaning with wooden taps (to keep cleaner in)

3. new back seal oil bath

4. glass blown and lack painted cover

I try to remeber take pictures time to time.

V-M

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