Bean Posted September 21, 2005 Report Share Posted September 21, 2005 Another question for the experienced: Have you ever considered doing a swap from head bolts to head studs? I'd love to go to a stud and nut conversion on the N9TE and was wondering if you've ever considered it? I talked to the Raceware fastener guys - they just need a sample to see if they have anything in stock. (That's the only way I could afford it since custom ones would cost a FORTUNE!) Raceware stuff is the best bar none - but it costs a LOT of money. ARP would be an option too. I'm also thinking that if there are OEM studs from another car that should be a nice cheap option that would still be better than the stock bolt set up... I'd prefer the OEM route if the application was suitable... Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V-M Posted September 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2005 Studs are goooood but I'd believe at this is needed in current boost levels? Surely it's good in any level but for me it's too expencive (no bang for buck) New pictures added in web page (project section), I'll try to make some story of whole engine building (but now I have no energy to do such thing). But ask if someting is interesting or seems odd or... anything V-M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted September 26, 2005 Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 Studs are goooood but I'd believe at this is needed in current boost levels? Surely it's good in any level but for me it's too expencive (no bang for buck) New pictures added in web page (project section), I'll try to make some story of whole engine building (but now I have no energy to do such thing). But ask if someting is interesting or seems odd or... anything V-M ← what this sensor in the side of the block: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toni Lindroos Posted September 26, 2005 Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 what this sensor in the side of the block: It's a block heater. ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V-M Posted September 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 In that picture you can see that BIG scratch on cylinder 3 (second from front) that was due totally strange oil rings. I have build over 100 engines and never had such problems to fit piston rings. I did remove that piston and did some honing on cylinder and hope for best. V-M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted September 26, 2005 Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 It's a block heater. ;-) ← aaaaaah, interesting.. never seen that before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toni Lindroos Posted September 26, 2005 Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 aaaaaah, interesting.. never seen that before Well, it's quite common in Finland (and in other Scandinavian countries) for obvious reasons. ;-D And works well too. I'll always try to heat the engine before starting it if it's freezing outside in winter. 30-60 minutes is usually enough here in south coast of Finland. Actually, some research results are saying that one should use a block heater whenever outside temperature is under 10 C (50 F), that should reduce the engine wear and fuel consumption. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted September 27, 2005 Report Share Posted September 27, 2005 Cool! (Block heaters...) Every car here has them here - but I've never been able to find one that fits - so we all run lower rad hose heaters instead, but they're not nearly as good. I don't plan on running the Turbo in the winter - but just in case - would you happen to know what kind of block heater it does take? (I'm curious if I could source it here.) Thanks! Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted September 27, 2005 Report Share Posted September 27, 2005 not running the 505 in the winter? but isn't that when the lion ROARS with that super cold air? hahahahah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toni Lindroos Posted September 27, 2005 Report Share Posted September 27, 2005 Every car here has them her - but I've never been able to find one that fits - so we all run lower rad hose heaters instead, but they're not nearly as good.I don't plan on running the Turbo in the winter - but just in case - would you happen to know what kind of block heater it does take? (I'm curious if I could source it here.) Well, I have one of those rad hose heater in my 505 GRE (XN1) too, works good enough. BTW, I've read that those radiating oil pan heater elements that are fitted to most new cars sold in Scandinavia aren't very effective. But nothing beats a Webasto or other gas or diesel burning heaters, they are sadly just too expensive for old cars. OK, here's what I found (prices in Finland): P505-TurboInjection Calix element (RE 196) 39.36 e P505-TurboInjection Calix cable kit (1,5+2,5 m) 40.20 e P505iTurbo Calix branching cable kit 67.11 e Here's the Calix web site: http://www.calix.se/default.asp?parSprak=UK Product search lists two different elements for 505 Turbo Injection: RE 151 and RE 196. The difference is in how they are attached to block. RE 151: Conical, RE 196: T-piece. There are illustrations in the PDF catalog. RE 151: http://www.calix.se/bildbank/imageview.asp?link=126 http://www.calix.se/bildbank/StreamOpenFil...?t=3&f=126f.eps RE 196: http://www.calix.se/bildbank/imageview.asp?link=131 http://www.calix.se/bildbank/StreamOpenFil...?t=3&f=131f.jpg Product catalog in PDF format: http://www.calix.se/modul_rektabeller/file...ktabellerUK.pdf I'm not sure what I have in my Turbos. It looks like Defa doesn't offer anything other for the 505 than rad hose heaters - at least anymore. Maybe there are more different brands but Defa and Calix are maybe the most popular in Finland. You might have to contact Calix and ask what's the nearest reseller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toni Lindroos Posted September 27, 2005 Report Share Posted September 27, 2005 not running the 505 in the winter? but isn't that when the lion ROARS with that super cold air? hahahahah Well, I'm running it in the winter too... But after I get those rusted areas repaired I'm going to use it in the summer only. They use much salt on the roads in the winter here and that's poison for our 505's... 505 Turbo is a great winter car. But you really don't need that much power in the winter, so I'll be maybe using my GRE (XN1) as a winter car when I finally get it ready. ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted September 28, 2005 Report Share Posted September 28, 2005 Bingo - salt is the enemy here in Northern Canada as well. I LOVE driving the Turbo in the winter - 4 studded winter grips, perfect chassis balance, and turbo power make it a joy to drive in fresh powder. The salt ruining my rather pristine Virginia 505 Turbo just isn't woth the risk. It's done one winter out of necessity and that's all she'll ever do. I have other 505's I can use - even my 504 would be better - at least till I restore her as well. Toni is right - the XN6 pug is more than plenty for the fun factor in the winter - and the engine is awesome. Even has one of the best heaters of any car up here. Rabin BTW - Thanks for the block heater info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toni Lindroos Posted October 1, 2005 Report Share Posted October 1, 2005 I noticed that the block heater in one of my 505 Turbos is indeed a DEFA (type 103, 220 V, 550 W)... Their web site does not list type 103 for 505 Turbo but for 505 Ti with ZEJ engine. Well, the frost plug size on the block must be the same then... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V-M Posted October 20, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2005 Here is current situation after 50km driving with new engine. First this adjustable cam gear 4 degr for adjusting were was too less. I needed minimum 8 degr so I replaced adj. gear with original and put gear one tooth in advance (10degr) now exhaust valves are not hitting in pistons any more. After that I did take short round ~20km and find out at blue smoke is coming heavily from exhaust Luckily I forget to put lock in actuator so it was not lifting pressure at all, when I was driving back to garage. So I figure at only posibility were turbo, at that was correct. Back sealing ring was totaly leaking out. I replaced that ring and did test drive. No problem at all. Currently max pressure is 0.5bar which I keep until I have driven 500km at least. But it realy feels good with this extra cylinder capacity, turbo lag is bit bad but lets see how it kicks when I lift it in 1.1bar Dyno time is fixed to 9. november but lets see, we have all ready cold here (-3 deg Celsius) at mornings. I don't want to drive this with winter tyres and slipery asfalt with this turbo lag Another problem can be this Finish annual inspection, we have dam difficult with these engine modifications and approvals One notice: I did still use original head gasket! It goes sharply along edge nearly whole round but in one part it's bit in cylinder side. But at least currently I have noticed any problems with it. I'll retorgue head as soon as possible (one 505 in garage waiting to breaking down to parts) . V-M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 20, 2005 Report Share Posted October 20, 2005 WOW - I can hardly wait for your results!!! Does the engine note sound any different? What about off boost power? I'd expect it to be quite decent seeing as how it is a fairly high compression engine with decent displacement... I have to admit it's SO much nicer when someone else pioneers a modification and then you can just follow up on it... Thanks V-M! Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
webmaster Posted October 20, 2005 Report Share Posted October 20, 2005 Thanks for the update V-M!! We look forward to hearing more about your project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V-M Posted October 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2005 WOW - I can hardly wait for your results!!! Does the engine note sound any different? What about off boost power? I'd expect it to be quite decent seeing as how it is a fairly high compression engine with decent displacement... I have to admit it's SO much nicer when someone else pioneers a modification and then you can just follow up on it... Thanks V-M! Rabin It's bit difficult to compare cause exhaust is "totally different" than original, but sound is tight But doesn't keep bad noise when driving in road speeds, but when giving gas you can feel and hear deep ROAR Torgue feels and is giving bit support avoiding to this turbo lag, I'll do some measurements when it's possible. Rev. readings are not accurate in rev.meter? It goes over 8000 when accelerating but in idle it shows 1000? V-M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toni Lindroos Posted October 21, 2005 Report Share Posted October 21, 2005 That rev meter is usually not keeping up even with a stock Turbo. When accelerating the meter in my white car shows about 5200 rpm when it hits the 6000 rpm rev limiter. In your car rpm increases even faster and that's why the meter is even more crazy? But with that theory it should read even lower than 5200 when it hits the rev limiter? Just pure guesswork... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted October 21, 2005 Report Share Posted October 21, 2005 These tachometers are pretty horrible if you ask me.. I've spent a good amount of time calibrating to get it accurate up high, but it usually reads a little high down low. It also seems like they only *hold* calibration for a few months Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metako Posted October 28, 2005 Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 Nice work V-M. I will be interested to hear your impressions of the Saab FMIC - its quite skinny isnt it? Its the same one they have on the Volvo T4 I think. The turbo was a bit laggy on the Integral too if memory serves me correctly but it looks terrific. I think a CR of 8.78:1 would actually be pretty good as its close to the 8.8:1 of the EVOs which have stunning low/midrange power. (I know the engine has a different design but still...) Also, the latest buzz on some of the Nissan forums is the potential of the stock EVO VI and later turbos - great low/midrange and some people are getting up to 296kw at the wheels! I am definitely going to look into these. The dyno charts look even better than the GT25/28s. Apparently they can be had at quite a good price secondhand especially in the US. Perhaps I should introduce myself: I am the owner of the 505 SR20 DET conversion on your photo page. It was quite a surprise to see the pics there! Actually the pic of the engine compartment belongs to a 505 owner in Trinidad who beat me to the punch as the first running(!) 505 SR20 conversion, but the rest belong to mine. Mine is currently undergoing an engineers inspection so it can be registered - the end of a very long road! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted October 28, 2005 Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 interesting Metako! what turbo does the EVO VI have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted October 29, 2005 Report Share Posted October 29, 2005 Metako, welcome to the forum! It's really cool what you've done with your 505. I've heard a lot of good things about those sr20dets. If you have time it'd be awesome if you'd post a thread with some more pictures and a little info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 29, 2005 Report Share Posted October 29, 2005 Welcome to the site Metako - and kudos to you on the sweet engine swap! I just had to re-read this post from start to finish since it's so cool - and I just noticed that V-M decked the block an additional 1.4mm! Holy cow - no wonder the cam was a tooth out on the gear! Any problems with the timing chain slack? Was the tensioner able to handle the extra or was a link removed? The more I learn the more I'm blown away with the work you did V-M - amazing job! Just a little while longer and we can find out what kind of numbers the car puts down! (Nov 9th right?) Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V-M Posted October 29, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2005 Welcome to the site Metako - and kudos to you on the sweet engine swap! I just had to re-read this post from start to finish since it's so cool - and I just noticed that V-M decked the block an additional 1.4mm! Holy cow - no wonder the cam was a tooth out on the gear! Any problems with the timing chain slack? Was the tensioner able to handle the extra or was a link removed? The more I learn the more I'm blown away with the work you did V-M - amazing job! Just a little while longer and we can find out what kind of numbers the car puts down! (Nov 9th right?) Rabin I'll open engine during winter anyway so I'll have a look on chain then, but currently runing nicely. That taking one link could be good idea, that must be checked. I believe at exhaust valves are bend a little and thats the reason possible opening. (Of cause I'll test with air compressor first before opening) Pioneer work is't allways rewarding but it's interesting cause only limitation is own imagination But Thanx! Actually dyno day is in 18:th, I'm travelling at 9:th. That dyno place is good, you can imagine: when I reserved time to 9th, then I noticed at one hour later at I have trip art that time I called again and next free dyno time was at 18:th. He is doing a lot of rally and racing car adjustings, and winter rally season is starting soon. -> Ah those were days, when I was rallying with Ford Escort RS 2000 over 10 years ago About that 20DET engine, I'll like that engine caracterestics very much! My yungest brother has nissan 200sx s14 (-95) with that engine. It can do 400hp easily without doing anythin extra than adding more fuel and bigger turbo. Very nice engine! Metako: FMIC = IC? if yes then yes it's skinny but it's cheap ~100€ and notice at here in Finland summer is't that hot as you have there. And currently that isn't limitting factor in my car, I believe at limitter is this originel ECU for L-jet and ignition ECU. I have decided to try find limit for these original systems cause people is chancing those too easily. Of cause I have plan to make this Megasquit when needed but untill it's realy limitting then I'll stuck this originel POS . V-M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metako Posted October 29, 2005 Report Share Posted October 29, 2005 interesting Metako! what turbo does the EVO VI have? The EVOs have a Mitsubishi TDO5 with a titanium exhaust wheel and a twin scroll/entry exhaust housing. This, combined with a long stroke engine and 8.8:1 CR is what gives it its excellent low/mid performanse. Thanks for the welcome. I will start a thread with a few details of my SR20 conversion. I just had the first engineers inspection and I will let you know what happened. Yes V-M, FMIC=IC in Australia (front mount inter cooler), sorry. And good luck with the dyno. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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