Jump to content

New engine for 505 turbo


V-M

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 127
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 1 month later...

Some update. Volvo pistons machined -1.8mm and piston head reshaped to match original. Fitted on block and now just waiting for custom head gasget to arrive. Ordered that custom head gasget from italy with separate fire rings. Same gasget as I used with that larger piston engine and same whitch Tama uses currently in his same way build engine (same 92mm volvo pistons and saab B201 conrods).

Here is some pictures

1. after

2. Pistons before machinery

3. mold mass testing for valve clearange (not hit at all even 0mm valve setting)

4. own build dani head plug seat detail

5. pistons assembled and front cover with gears and chains assembled

Seem at pressure ratio will be bit lower than I previously assumed and calculated but it will be still close to 8, piston is now 0.5mm above block when in up position.

V-M

post-43-0-67481500-1440611266_thumb.jpg

post-43-0-97980300-1440611275_thumb.jpg

post-43-0-78682100-1440611287_thumb.jpg

post-43-0-25707900-1440611296_thumb.jpg

post-43-0-89022500-1440611308_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is the head gasket expensive? On a french forum a guy is making his own overside gaskets by ordering the rings and machining a stock gasket, cheap and he runs with lots of pressure. The post was old but maybe I can find the name of the ring supplier.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...

Time flies :) This morning I thinked at today I'll do some garage work. Engine has been ready pretty long time :D And all needed parts been there also long time. So here is result (see pictures). Tomorrow I'll put head on if I get some help lifting it on place, have to be accurate cause those loose rings can move easily wrong spot. Put also new treads (helicoil) on head side front cause those are often tighten too much and threats are worn.

V-M

 

 

Clutch.jpg

Moto1.jpg

moto2.jpg

moto3.jpg

moto4.jpg

moto5.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very excited for updates V-M! 

And yes - time does fly!  I've learned my lesson with posting too soon when starting projects - I'll have to update mine as well as some progress has been made on all of them, but I want to hold off on updates until I'm actually building rather than posting plans and thoughts.  :)

Rabin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10.7.2015 at 0:14 PM, V-M said:

ARP bolt set arrived.

V-M

post-43-0-39770300-1436519692_thumb.jpg

Small draw back... those nuts are wrong ones. wrong threat :(  these 300-8396 are M12x1,75 and it should be 300-8307-1 M12x1,50. Lets see those Porsche 944 head nuts are suitable (ordered them from France yesterday). Those 300-8307-1 was available from ARP but delivery time was 4 weeks, and those 944 nuts should arrive tomorrow or monday.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I was trying to figure out what was going on for Bill Branch - the only studs that would fit were 1.25mm pitch on block side, 1.75mm on the nut/head side.  (His had loosened - turns out it was most likely install error).  I however wasn't a fan of the course 1.75mm pitch for tightening.  They do make M12x1.75mm nuts for these studs to work however.

They also mentioned thse studs that have M12x1.5 threads - but oddly neither ARP or Raceware make M12x1.5 nuts.  300-8307 nuts show up as M12x1.25mm for me.

I was thinking the best solution was going to be to Timesert the block to M12X1.5 and then use the M12x1.25 side on top because they do make M12x1.25mm nuts - Didn't even think to look for OEM M12x1.5 head stud nuts.

Keep us posted.

Rabin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nuts came this morning from France (pretty fast delivery at home door). Surely there could been other alternatives than these Porsche 924,944,928 nuts but that was only which I found with correct spec and reasonable time limit. Nuts fitted perfectly as u see.

Correct! 300-8307 are M12x1,25 but  300-8307-1 M12x1,5 is not listed cause its special order limitation.

Note! This currently installed head is one which was self made danielson head with similar cindered cam than danielson but has bit more lift on cam (if I remeber correct it was 0,3mm more on cam, so its around 1mm in valve)

 

nuts2.jpg

nutson.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah - that is good to know VM!  When I talked to the guy on the phone he said they don't make M12x1.50mm nuts for those studs at all.

If they're just special order I'm going to verify and order 2x sets of those nuts - then I can get the studs and washers when I do my motors.  (Will hope the CDN dollar gets a little better exchange rate soon.)

Rabin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sent an e-mail to ARP about those 300-8307-1 special order nuts - will order a couple sets if so. :)

Very much looking forward to dyno results, and feedback on how it builds power on this build.

Are you running a stand alone?

Rabin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Reply from ARP (Art Venegas) is that part number is not correct, and the only M12x1.5 nut they make is in stainless steel.

There were two head studs they made and your initial post and your pictured part numbers come back as the M12x1.75mm studs, but they must have been mislabelled M12x1.50mm studs.

Still like your solution to use Porsche M12x1.50 nuts as long as the thread design is a nice tight fit, and will likely copy you if they don't suddenly stock M12x1.25 in the correct length. :)

Rabin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, was looking info also and all looked correct when I ordered them. Seems some error on studs or coding. That nut coding was from local importer.

Runned engine hot few times, opened valve cover to check valve gap and checked torgues of nuts. All looked fine and all in same torgue as I did set them. All okay so far. Found one initial problem which could caused earlier problems or maybe it came during not using engine. Hose from expansion can was stuck some air did go trough but when I opened both ends and put pressured air it make pop sound and some thing came out and air started flow easily.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Some problems with starter, caused by long starts which caused maybe by fuel pump. has been too cold (-20C) last weeks to do anything with 505. use cars both broken and taken all energy. Friend did make some badges with 3d printer, bottom is original and some versions after that.

badg.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Here is picture of repaired head /welded and surface straightened.  plug holes and combustion areas not grind in correct shape yet. But this is sample how it should be fixed to last. Problem is is on those 2 and 3 exhaust ring cracking towards water side, its very narrow place and heat difference is high. Welder said at there is bubbles  and residues from casting and its not so good and constant aluminum mold which can be seen when welding head.

20180315_065405.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Ignition control box which is located next to clove box and under temp control valve. Box looks clean out side but inside can be bit different. Remember to change place for box or at least turn it upside down (there is enough cable) to avoid this.

 

20180521_144238.jpg

20180521_144231.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...