bill Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 I am having a problem with the turbo- it started out as sort of a brief slight miss or hesitation. The next day, I got about a mile away, and it lost power briefly on and off, for about a minute (still running, but I knew something was wrong). Then, as it warmed up, it went away. Yesterday, it started acting up, but this time right away, and it got progressively worse. I got it home and started checking things. The engine has trouble running, but it will run, but shakes real bad. Lots of hesitation. Idles low and will stall after a bit. Plugs are dry and look normal, not wet. Strong unburnt hydrocarbon smell from exhaust. I replaced the fuel filter, cap & rotor, plugs are recent, tried different coil, ignition module, compression is good. Checked for air leaks the best I could. Checked coil supply wires the best I could. Checked microswitch. Blow by has been normal. Recently it had infrequent, occasional flashes from the LED, but they were infrequent and random in number of flashes. For sure six times once. No flashes now. I am suspecting that maybe the fuel pump is going out, and not supplying sufficient pressure. The question I have is- what is the size of the fitting of the fuel supply hose to the injection rail? I want to get a gauge, but one that will work and I need some suggestions as to what to get. Can I get by with a cheap gauge, or should I opt for a better one? I also need the fittings to tie into the line, and I am presuming that they all don't come with the fittings that I need, based on what I saw available online. I'll be shopping for a gauge today, but I need the size of the adapters. I have the book, and it specifies the pressure at between 2.4 and 2.5 bars. Is there anything else that I might check that would fit this scenario? BTW, about two months ago I replaced the fuel pressure regulator on a hunch, and it really improved things. I suspect that it was putting out too much output. Also, a couple of weeks ago I got some 804 injectors, but haven't gotten around to putting them in yet. Any advice is appreciated. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted November 12, 2007 Report Share Posted November 12, 2007 have you closely checked the accordion hose for cracking / leaking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted November 13, 2007 Report Share Posted November 13, 2007 I would flat-out just buy a new FPR for the car. It's only $80 @ RockAuto and if you don't know when it was last replaced, then it's time. They don't last forever and they fail gradually. I just swapped mine out when I was doing my valve adjustment and man what a difference. Drivability (especiallly cold drivability) was damn near new-car like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted November 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2007 Just a quick update- I have been doing a lot of self education scouring the web. I did a quick and dirty fuel pressure test via an old compression tester that I had laying around, and am getting about 37 psi off of the cold start connection, which is good. I heard that there is a slight chance that the pressure can drop off after the engine is running, and the compression tester is useless for that test. The manual has a fuel volume test, where you connect a hose to the fuel return line on the fpr. I think I will try that for shits and giggles. I did find that the check valve on the fuel pump was toast. It's the little ball and spring affair, and goes into the pump and attaches to the fuel line. It is supposed to keep the injectors pressurized after shutdown. This failed on me a couple of years ago on my old car, so I had a spare. I don't know the Bosch part number, but I did buy it separately at that time (it comes on a new pump) for about $20. It can be tested by removing and blowing into it. You are supposed to be able to blow into the small end and get 100% resistance, whereas on the other end, the one with the holes on the side, should flow free. This one was behaving just the opposite! No wonder the car wasn't starting on the first crank. That probably made the pump work extra hard, and probably hindered pump cooling. I checked for air leaks. The FPR is relatively new (this year). Did a ton of tests on the fuel injection components. The o2 sensor was dead, as I was getting like 12 volts from the mixture adjustment wire, and it wasn't adjusting at all. Swapped out distributors. I think it is time to rebuild the turbo, and it has more than normal amounts of oil in the intake tract. I think that is probably at the heart of my problem, but I'd like to know if there isn't something else going on. The intercooler dripped pretty good when I pulled it off. It has happened before, where I would get a surge of oil, but then it would correct itself. The first time it happened was about five years ago, it happened again about six months ago, and now. Is turbo rebuild a DIY job? I see there's a guy on ebay selling a kit for around $75, and he offers free balancing along with purchase. Some people are saying to leave it to the professionals. Some are also saying that the Chinese are even in the turbo rebuild parts business and to steer clear of them. I'll keep you updated. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted November 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2007 Just a quick update- I put in the new 804 injectors today. Not a particularly bad job, but yes, tedious. Time consuming. Helpful with the right tools. I can't wait to try them out, with cooler plugs and higher boost levels. Anyway, I drove around the block several times, and no change, and sh*tsville was still there. No power. It was weird, as it would set there and idle, and every so often, the vacuum would drop, and it would sorta "hunt" the idle speed, and shake. It even backfired before stalling once. WTH? Rev to 2500, and things smoothed out. Heres the funny part- wait for it- I reached down to the exhaust pipe to see if there was a miss, and it felt hotter than normal. So I peered under the car, and my cat was cherry red at the back! Viola. Wish me luck. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted January 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 The rough running issue has been resolved. The car has been sitting in the garage while I have been driving the t-wagon instead. It turned out to be the Air Flow Meter. I had checked it briefly a long time ago via the ecu. I checked it with the vane closed, and the ohms were good. Then I opened the vane with a screwdriver, and it checked out okay at that one point. Still digging (after checking a ton of other things), I took it off, and checked it throughout the range. It was whacked. I had a spare one, so I swapped them. Problem gone. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted January 9, 2008 Report Share Posted January 9, 2008 nicely done bill, glad to hear you got it sorted. did you change your cat as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted January 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2008 I'm not quite ready to condemn the cat. I am getting more than normal amounts of oil in the intake from the turbo. I want to look into rebuilding it myself. I have never done one, but I heard some Volvo guys say it's doable. The AFM was set real rich, too when I noticed the glow. I got things reset with another O2. The other O2 was dead. One thing that happened along the way that threw me for a loop was that I had somehow managed to mix the #2 and #3 wires on the distributor. I thought I was being so careful, too. That plastic wire harness can throw you. When I found it, I could not believe what I was looking at. It's off the road until summer, so that gives me time to sort things out. -Bill nicely done bill, glad to hear you got it sorted. did you change your cat as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted January 20, 2008 Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 i've got plenty of extra turbo's if you need parts bill. let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted January 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 That's cool, thanks buddy. I am still a little fuzzy about marking positions when you dismantle them. Something about marking the housing or some such thing. Sometimes I need a picture, or at least a better description as to why and how. I've been busy with other projects, but I do want to get to it, like before April or something. Bill i've got plenty of extra turbo's if you need parts bill. let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
germsteel Posted August 2, 2013 Report Share Posted August 2, 2013 Bill, Did anyone come forward with the right Fuel pressure fitting size, my 505 SW N9TE needs a fuel pressure test too. Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 It should be the standard schrader valve like on a tire... Any fuel pressure tester should work on it. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted August 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 The N9Ts do not have a Schrader valve. What you can do is tap the fitting where the fifth injector line attaches to the fuel rail. The size is M10 X 1.0. What sort of problems do you have? There is a check valve on the fuel pump (see pic). It is a ball and spring affair. It serves to keep the injectors pressurized after the motor is off. It can get sticky. I had one where it was sticking, making the car hard to start (it would take a good five minutes). It comes on a new fuel pump. I bought just the valve a long tine ago from Sunset about 10 years ago, but I don't have the Bosch number. It was something like $25 then. Yesterday I installed a brand new Bosch fuel pump (0 580 464 044 *61444*) on my 86 turbo. I got it on ebay for around $75 delivered. I remember getting one about 10 years ago from an auto parts store and it was in excess of $200. The new fuel pump is now eerily quiet. Mine was a little noisy and sometimes if I am idling at a stoplight, the engine would briefly hesitate sorta, almost like a miss. The other key component of the fuel system is the fuel pressure regulator. It can make a huge difference if your's is wacky. -Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted August 8, 2013 Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 I stand corrected - I had a loose fuel rail and assumed the little fitting was a schrader, but double checked my car and it's exactly as Bill said. Out of curiousity - I wanted to see what the schrader valve spec was: Metric: 7.7 mm OD, thread root diameter is 6.9 mm x 0.794 mm pitch. English: 0.305 in OD, thread root diameter 0.302 in x 32 tpi (threads per inch) BTW Bill - I bought a similar "044" pump off e-bay for a similar price, but then googled and found there are a lot of counterfeit Bosch "044" pumps being sold on e-bay. The one I bought fit the description online of the fakes, so I canceled the order. I did find lots of people with good things to say about the fakes, but the "044" is a Motorsport pump that can support big HP, and that's were the fakes came short - they simply don't flow the same amount of fuel as the real ones do. Should be fine for a stock car - but something to be wary off just in case. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
germsteel Posted November 8, 2013 Report Share Posted November 8, 2013 How do you get at the Fuel Pressure Regulator? I can see it but I can't get my hand in there -- is there some secret? Super small hands? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V-M Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 Whole fuel rail is easy to remove with injectors without removing inlet. Also regulator can be removed without removing anything else than vacuum hose and fuel hose and two 6mm bolts (or is there someting extra thing next to firewall in us models?) V-M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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