Jayden M Posted January 8 Author Report Share Posted January 8 On 1/2/2023 at 2:14 AM, Bean said: Have you ever done a compression test on it? I havnt yet, but I really should. I will get one done in the next couple of days. As for timing I have been figuring it out, and have practiced on my recently acquired XN6 wagon by settings its timing. One thing I had to do on the XN6 engine was disconnect the Vacuum line for the distributor, but as the Turbo engine does not have vacuum advance(I think), is there anything electrical I need to disconnect or jump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted January 9 Author Report Share Posted January 9 Alright I think i'v got the timing figured out. I got a reading of 12* BTDC which is within spec. In fact I may raise it to around 15* after I do a valve adjustment. Im doing a compression test now and wonder what PSI reading should I be looking for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 Not sure what spec you’re reading but pretty sure these are 8 degrees, and they do not like the timing bumped. I used to sneak in 10, but it ran best when everything was set to OE specs. I was also running an MSD 6AL ignition box with a MSD blaster coil. Compression: anything over 120 psi is decent, but how close all four are is better measurement - they should all be between 5-10% of each other. Compression after adjusting valves is ideal, and remember to crank it with throttle open when you turn it over. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted January 9 Author Report Share Posted January 9 28 minutes ago, Bean said: Not sure what spec you’re reading but pretty sure these are 8 degrees The sticker on the hood says 10* +/- 2 so I just went by that. I did the compression tests and it seems like I have a weak cylinder. Test was done with throttle fully open and cold engine. Results: (cylinder 1 being at the firewall) 1. 131 2. 116 3. 131 4. 131 Im curious if testing with a warm engine would provide results with more compact readings, I guess there isnt much anything I can do about compression without tearing the engine down. On a side note I have been trying to track down the drivetrain noise. I jacked the rear end up by the trailing arms and ran the car in gear. The noise seems to be coming from the output side of the transmission or somewhere along the Torque tube. Its so hard to tell since it literally vibrates the entire car and resonates off of everything. Also I was testing my rear brakes which seem to be doing near nothing on this car... While I had the car jacked up running in gear I had to use nearly all the brakes just to get it to overpower the idle of the car... My guess is the rear proportioning valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted January 9 Author Report Share Posted January 9 Another long day of work on the car today. I pulled the half shafts, rotors, differential and driveshaft out and redid my sound test to track down the noise. The noise is gone with all the components out. On a side note the differential that I just recently put in now has a large amount of metallic flakes in its fluid when I drained it... however the noise does not seem to come from the rear. Im Kind of stumped of what to do next. It might be time to swap the torque tube out with the spare 505 turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted January 28 Author Report Share Posted January 28 Big progress update on Blackie! It's been a long few weeks, but the car is as disassembled as it needs to be. I plan to replace all the drivetrain components (apart from the engine). I have removed literally all of the drivetrain except the engine. So transmission, torque converter, torque tube, and rear end assembly are all out. I have already removed both drivetrain setups from Blackie and Whitie, so I am ready to start reinstalling parts. (Pics of everything tomorrow hopefully... its so much stuff its kind of scary) This is my first time replacing a transmission, and so while I have all these parts out is there anything I should do while its out? Also the temptation of manual swapping this thing is crazy since I have all the parts to do it sitting in my garage... but Im saving that for another project. I Hope you guys are enjoying your Peugeots... I know I am and mine just hangs out on jack stands . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted January 29 Author Report Share Posted January 29 Another day working on the drive-train replacement, and I am currently wrestling the 'new' transmission into place. Being my first time replacing a transmission I am struggling a bit. I cant get the bell-housing to completely sit against the back of the engine, its that last 1/2 inch. I have been told not to use the bolts to seat the transmission onto the engine, so I am trying to just push. Here is everything I have removed for the operation: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted January 29 Report Share Posted January 29 Make sure the TC was seated properly, there’s nothing that needs to engage since the TC just bolts to the flex plate. Do not use the bolt to snug up ever! And get some wood between the Jack and oil pan of the trans! I’ve always used a strap around the trans and up into the car around a 4x4 across the hole. Once strapped into position the tranny is way easier to move/jiggle into place. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted February 1 Author Report Share Posted February 1 Thanks Rabin, you were right the torque converter was not seated into the transmission fully. After pushing the TC in fully I was able to get the bellhousing flush to the back of the engine. Just have a quick question on the driveshaft that sits in the torque tube, should I be greasing the ends up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted February 9 Author Report Share Posted February 9 Just test drove the car with the new Transmission and torque tube. The sound is the exact same as it was before, except this transmission is occasionally reluctant to come out of first. A great learning experience I guess... but was completely a waste of time. Hopefully a few miles on this transmission will make it work properly. Next up is a Valve adjustment, and some Polyurethane control bushings, then I can *hopefully* enjoy this car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted February 15 Report Share Posted February 15 Can you maybe record the noise in the car? Is it audible enough to pick up or more of a vibration? In gear or neutral make a difference? On power or coasting? Clutch in or clutch out? Sucks for sure, but definitely a learning experience. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayden M Posted March 9 Author Report Share Posted March 9 The sound is definitely audible, everyone that rides in it wonders what that sound is and the sound changes from being in gear to neutral to coasting to under load, but always makes a noise. Higher speed = more noise. Have not driven the car much as once I get on the highway I notice some extreme instability of the car. It just weaving left and right constantly. I found the issue to be inside the rear right wheel bearing... There is so much play in there compared to the left side. This car really does live on jack stands. Also I checked the valves, everything was right on the tight end of the spec. With the valves checked I think this car finally has been gone through completely in terms of stock engine performance. I might do a little playing around with the Timing, or maaaaybe up the boost a hair. I still am not happy with the engine though because it is leaking a fair amount of oil between the block and head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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