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Blackie


Jayden M
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Sadly the spare car I was going to pull from has busted power steering hoses as well. Unable to find a new hose, hopefully I can get a local speciality shop to rebuild it.

Now another terrible problem.... the water pump is leaking coolant :(. Will be getting it rebuilt too. Car seems pretty reliable so far :) (joking)

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Any hydraulic shop should be able to fix that hose no problem, just make sure they can do automotive PS lines as it doesn’t need to have the full on hydraulic hose that is very stiff and hard to move around.  
 

And yes - The car will surface all sorts of issues from sitting so long.  Just keep an eye on the cooling system getting pressurized.  That’s the first sign of a cracked cylinder head, and will often present with coolant leaks.

Rabin

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  • 1 month later...

Ahhh yes. 2 months of patiently waiting, and the rebuilt waterpump is back in along with power steering hose!

 

Still need to adjust the fan clutch as it does not freely spin well, and the needle that makes the clutch engage (sometimes it fails to engage the clutch), but cooling temp cycles are a bit lower than before which is nice.

Just glad to have the car back :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Been driving blackie for hours a day, for over a week. So far it has been mostly reliable. The cooling system is working amazingly, its so nice to see the coolant gauge sit just above the 1st mark. The power steering hasnt leaked either, which is nice, however at low speeds turning the wheel makes the wheel judder a bit, which is annoying.

For a few days I had an issue where the engine would cut out just at random times, and it was a relay wire not making contact, which I fixed.

The main issue I am having now is power. If I floor the car it just stays at the same RPM and starts backfiring... Slowly giving it gas seems to work, mostly. This is weird, and annoying.

I fix something... 2 more things break.

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You should make sure the engine is timed, and the TPS is set properly.

I had a car that did something similar and the timing was too advanced.  Did the TPS adjustment procedure at the same time and the car was perfect!

Rabin

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The most concerning issue right now is the steering... It jutters if I turn it even a bit quickly.

Alright sweet. I found the accordian hose boot between AFM and Turbo had a nice and big rip in it. I grabbed one from the parts car, and idle was smoother, and the car has stopped randomly cutting out. Now it only predictable cuts out -- It cuts out after reaching Peak boost (14PSI) and high RPM.

Its a bit crazy in my mind how far the car has come, and its getting close to the point where I can reliable drive it somewhere and be confident it will make it back home.

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The car should never see 14psi so the boost cut solenoid is working, but that means the wastegate on the turbo is NOT working.  Don’t keep doing it though as repeated cuts at that boost level is still enough to eventually do damage.

Use a small air pump or something to test the wastegate to make sure it’s working.  If it is, then make sure the boost lines and the solenoid are working as the 89’ controls it electronically.  

Plan B would be to bypass the electronic control and just route the boost signal line direct to wastegate for the time being.

Rabin

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12 is what the ecu should control it too, but wastegate should open around 7psi or so.

14 psi will be running quite lean which will cause detonation, with very real potential for breaking ring lands on the pistons.

Pretty sure the solenoid on the intake elbow before the throttle body triggers at 14psi.

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  • 1 month later...

Just been pleasantly enjoying this car the past few months. A few minor leaks of oil and trans fluid, other than that the car has been doing great. Even the heat works!

  ...Until this evening When I went to turn the key and all I got was the lights. Did not hear the starter solenoid even. I tried a different battery but that did no good. So I will probably have to see if power is reaching that starter solenoid, and then decide from there what to do next.

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There’s a common problem on these cars when the switch wears out and isn’t able to send enough signal to the solenoid to engage.  

Using the existing starter wire as the “signal” wire for a relay that switches 12V from the battery is the usual fix.  
 

Google or search for Peugeot starter relay mod” or something similar.

Rabin

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Welp. While trying to find the cause of the starter issue, it just randomly started working again, which annoys me. I moved the gear shifter from P to 1 multiple times and that just fixed it, so im guessing the car was thinking it was in drive, and did not let me start it.

I also took the time to take the gas tank out, to inspect it & the pump. The tank was very clean, and the gas.   The pump though did not work.... Until I beat it with the hammer haha. The external fuel pump is still loud while driving, but it is now a consistent sound. Engine misfires less often too now.

I also got brave and tried out the heat. It works fine, and no leaks! This makes driving it during these cold times so much better.

 

Onto the next major issue - Steering.

     Turning the steering wheel even slightly quickly while the car is either sitting still or slowly moving causes the wheel to shutter pretty badly. I do not think the tires or suspension are at fault because if I go into neutral and rev up the engine then the wheel turns fine. This issue starting occurring right after I replaced the busted power steering hose. Seems like to me if the power steering pressure gets high is when it starts shuttering the wheel. No problems when driving at speed.

- Could it be shuttering because the hose is not the same length as the old one?
- Could it be from mix matching 2 different types of ATF? or just using the wrong type of ATF?
- Could it be the pump itself is weak?
- Maybe my idle is to low? (no rev counter, I dont know where the rpm sensor is)
 

Any thoughts on this would be helpful. :)

 

- Jayden M

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Overboost is a protection circuit so the engine doesn’t go lean under boost and get destroyed.

You should only be disabling it if you have a boost controller, afr monitoring, and ideally EGT monitoring, and a stand alone ecu with bigger injectors!

Unplugging the sensor on the elbow should disable boost cut to answer your question, but if you’re over boosting and it’s working as designed the motor won’t last long at all at high boost.

Rabin

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Steering - should a only be using ATF in the system.  Not sure what you mean by shuddering, but the car has variable assist with the controller under battery.  Unplugging it should take that variable assist out of the equation.

Rabin

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4 hours ago, Bean said:

Not sure what you mean by shuddering

The steering wheel shakes pretty badly.

 

I had thought the car had a feature where if conditions were right the car would run higher than 12 PSI of boost for a short time. I just want to disable it to get a proper boost reading.

I did another boost reading last night and 13 PSI was what I saw it maintaining it at, but I don't know if it was overboosting.

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Check the lower ball joints and tires rods (inner and outer) for play.  Use a pry bar for lower ball joints to see if there is any up/down play.

Over boost should be triggering higher than the ECU’s overboost.  Pretty sure normal was 9 psi, and overboost was 12psi.  I tried getting a bit more out of the car and stock injectors and the ECU just can’t keep up.  
 

If you’re seeing 13psi then you are likely hitting overboost legit - make sure your wastegate is working properly and it holds vacuum.

Rabin

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On those early turbo cars the only overboost you can have is with a wastegate that is slow to close.

The last models with EZK 200 ignition ECU have boost control but I don't know if they also used it for overboost.

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13 hours ago, Bean said:

Check the lower ball joints and tires rods (inner and outer) for play

Oh wow yeah I can jiggle the wheel side to side and vertically too, both ball joints and outer tie rods are wiggly.

The wastegate might just need to be adjusted, since It does maintain boost and the cutout switch for boost is unplugged. Just a little high on pressure though.

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Tonights issue is brakes

While driving around testing boost I noticed a strong smell of burned brakes.
After feeling which wheel had the most heat eminating from it, I found the spring on the rear caliper that is connected to the handbrake mechanism was very stiff and would not self spring back into normal position. This was an easy fix as I have about a dozen spares.

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5 hours ago, SRDT said:

On those early turbo cars the only overboost you can have is with a wastegate that is slow to close.

The last models with EZK 200 ignition ECU have boost control but I don't know if they also used it for overboost.

Jayden’s 89’ has ECU controlled boost, and will do overboost when all conditions are met…. The overboost is what bumper the rated HP to 180HP over previous versions rated at 160HP.

Whether all that is still working as designed is a different discussion.  :)

Steering shudder:  Definitely the cause if one or more are loose!

Rabin

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Turns out the handbrake issue was within the piston itself, and not just the spring. Going to be rebuilding another caliper in the middle of this winter snowstorm.

I have also bought a fuel pressure gauge to test on all my cars at some point.

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I was talking about overboost like in the 405 T16: +20hp for 45s if you floor it and conditions are right. You need to floor it every 45s if you want 220hp instead of 200.

I think the 505 has 180hp as standard unless the weather is too hot or you're using low octane fuel.

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