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What if I tried screwing in the bolt from the backside? I have spare bolts anyway

Also, it was the first bolt I was putting in while putting the hub back on, and I just didnt have it straight. There is lot of angle play with the half shafts

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The hubs sit into the trailing arm flange, they need to be fully seated before you thread in the bolts.  
 

If you don’t have the correct tap then you could use a dremel or a file (or something similar) to cut grooves into the threads of a bolt making it a tap.  https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.instructables.com/Make-a-tap-from-a-bolt/%3Famp_page%3Dtrue
 

Make very sure to clean up the hub and the trailing arm so they fit together nice. It’s usually a snug fit, so tap it in if needed.  Do NOT use the bolts to seat the hub.

Rabin

 

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Yeah I had tried using the bolts to seat the hub, I could not push hard enough to get the Bearing hub part to sit.. was 1/2 inch from it. Worked fine on the left side of car, but on the right it just stripped due to my incompetence. Im clearly not fit for this job

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What kind of tool should I use to turn the rear brake caliper piston? Like a specific tool I should buy, Screwdriver isnt working, seems like the caliper piston may be frozen up a lil bit

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Not knowing how to do something, or not doing it properly because you didn’t know isn’t incompetence - It’s just experience.  :)

Incompetence is if you never learn from mistakes and you repeat the same mistakes over and over.

I think you’re doing awesome with the tasks at hand!

As for the brake piston you need some 8mm or 5/16” square stock or something that shape to engage the slot.

Rabin

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Now that i'v got the mechanical important bits working, I'd like to fix the radio. - All the bits and pieces are there, but the radio doesn't even turn on to let me enter the anti-theft code. Not even a sound or the orange backlight. Is there a relay that controls it? where should I start?

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Update on radio - I just swapped it with crackies radio, and surprisingly the 30 yr old speakers in blackie still work...... But its like the volume is 1/10.... I have to put it on max volume to even slightly hear it.

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Are you getting sound from all 6 speakers?  Sounds like the amp isn’t working properly in any case with the second one.

Might want to try the first one as it may not have been getting power - If it’s still dead then I’d try any other spares, or just pick up a replacement.  You can something pretty decent for not a lot of money.  Some really good used deals usually pop up fairly frequently too.

Rabin

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I think just the front lower 2 speakers are working, and the rear right. Which is plenty for me. I dont know where the amp(s) is/are

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Amp is internal to the deck itself. The other thing you might want to do is check the speakers themselves.  If the woofer is seized then you might only get sound out of the tweeters.  It's pretty easy to figure out which speaker is which with the wiring, so you can test them out with a known good sound source.  I once tested mine with a home stereo and a long speaker lead so I could figure out which speaker was which so I could install the aftermarket deck.

Rabin

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Another major progress update!

Differential is fully torqued down, and I put in 80w90 gl-5 gear oil, if there is something better lemme know!

All 4 wheels are swapped out and mixed from the best wheels of all 4 of my 505's, I did not replace the 15 YR old tread yet, but will after I test drive it in a few days (still have 1 more thing to fix)

Was not able to accurately able to torque down the wheel spindle nuts to the 205 Ft Lbs the manual wants, I just pulled as hard as I could.

Engine continues to run plenty well enough to drive.

Issue with brakes: I had to replace an entire caliper due to a siezed piston, and after installing the new caliper I was going to bleed the brakes, and after opening the bleed screw, fluid came out, but after a couple seconds it stopped coming out and I was never able to get fluid out again (Yes brake fluid is topped up). Not sure what thats about.

Using the volt meter on the battery with car running is only 11.95 Volts, looks like a bad alternator, any cool tricks that bring dead alternators back to life? I can pick off of my other cars, but blackies stuff is usually less rusty, which is why I want to use blackies.

After a good alternator is installed I may go for a lil test drive.

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You might want to try checking the ground on the alternator, or even run a ground to the alternator to see if it charges.  Make sure the small wire on the back of the alternator has a good connection and the wire is in good shape.  Also try revving the motor a little, but not too much as those autos don’t like revving up in neutral or park.

I mentioned using Redline 75w90NS in manual transmissions, but it also works great in Peugeot LSD rear ends, but I believe the diff you installed is an open diff from an earlier abs car?

In order to bleed the brakes on an ABS car you need to crack the bleeder on the passenger rear and have someone turn on ignition - The ABS pump pushes the fluid out and then you tighten the bleeder.  Repeat for driver rear.  The front bleed like normal.

Rabin

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The diff I installed is the same as original - its the 89 Torsen differential from a spare 505 turbo (1989)

Thanks for the info on bleeding, Just need the rear passenger side bled.

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You should always do farthest to nearest from brake master when you crack the system.  Also you really should flush the old brake fluid from all the calipers.

Torsen diffs don’t need the No Slip (NS) additive so any high quality synthetic gl5 gear oil should work.

Rabin

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Another working day on blackie!

Tested and it shifts into reverse and drive just fine! Only drove a couple feet (currently blocked in by bushes) (automatic car)

Tried using the alternator from silver 505 turbo, and still only 12V.

Any suggested alternators that last a while? If not im just going to grab one from rock auto.

Though it shifts fine, when going from P/N into Reverse of Drive the engine nearly stalls, any ideas?

Also going to get some new spark plugs, any suggested ones? And how in the world do you get to the back 2 fuel injectors without taking off the intake manifold?

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Its ready.

All 4 fuel injectors Ultrasonic cleaned.

New bosch spark plugs

New alternator

New Oil Filter

I was shocked to see how well it runs. Honestly it runs better than the families daily driver (97 honda, but is a beater).

However I have 2 concerns:
1. After the engine warms up, and i crack loose the coolant overfill bottle it does Not make a "psst" sound. Though both the lower and upper radiator hoses get very warm, and all 3 fans eventually cut on (freakin dirt dobbers nest went into my mouth)

2. The black sphere next to the brake fluid bottle (i think its a pump not sure) - Jon was going to drive blackie today, but was concerned that the brakes may not be pumped by that sphere. How to test it works ?

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FIRST DRIVE IN 15 YEARS!

Me and my dad drove blackie around the neighborhood testing stuff out. Brake lights on the back work. Pretty much no lights on the front work... except 1 fog light. Engine ran beautifully, transmission was great. Power steering keep going in and out, mostly in as we got back home. Took like 5 seconds to stop from 15 mph at FULL braking... brake pump is on, hopefully its just the super rusty rotors. On our way home we even spooled the turbo a bit. Sounded c00l. A/C doesnt work :( Engine didnt overheat either.

Finally results from my work woot woot

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Congrats!  Did you take any pictures?

Is the brake pedal hard or soft?  Power steering is a variable speed system that uses a sensor on speedo cable to have more steering assist at low speeds, and less assist at high speed. I’d check connection on speedo, and the controller is under the battery tray I believe.  If you unplug the controller it will be assisted all the time like normal.

Rabin

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Brake pedal feels pretty normal compared the families accord, I think its just the rusty rotors, which will wear as we drive it more. Yeah both the power steering and speedo were super wonky, the speedo was stuck at 0 just wiggling insanely fast.

Will post pics soon on the FB

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The speedo wiggling reminds me of having similar issue with my 605 and 505. Both had speedometer cable cracked at their shielding and the cables themselves were pretty rusted. Should be fixed by changing the cable, or as first aid, you could lubricate the cable. Both include pretty much the same amount of work so I would change the cable..

Now, I dont know which type of cable there is with the automatic transmission, but atleast there is 2 different types of cables for the manual transmission.. The diameter of the cable end changes from 2.7mm to 3.0mm, so I would measure the cable end to be sure before getting new one...

 

-Wales

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Bouncing speedo needle would explain the wonky steering since it’s speed sensitive and reading the speedo cable.

Normal speedo failure is right at the transmission - cable starts to fray and starts binding and releasing causing the needle to bounce.  It only stops when it breaks so fixing it preventively is a good plan.  I’ve heard DIY speedo cable repair kits will work with minimal work - but have yet to do it myself.

Rabin

 

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I know you guys wanted pics of the car on the road, and I'll get some soon (Don't have license, so my dad has to do the driving), but for now....

 

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