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Jayden M

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I did give the torque tube a few grease squirts a few months back, I think 2 or 3 with a grease gun. Maybe it needs more? I had the car lifted in the rear at one point to find the noise and it only starts at a certain mph speed, regardless of gear. The sound is more of a rusty rotor type of noise than a whine. I just plan to replace all of the transmission parts, since this car had been heavily abused anyway.

As for the pin out box - its got connectors for ABS pump and ecu, power steering ecu... all the ecu's and some various sensors. Plus it has all that for 505 and 405. Most likely it came from Joe Grubbs & his shop.

And its nice that the shop manual pin out #'s actually match what I have

And as a major bonus you can use it while driving for live data!

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I do like 10-15 pumps min.  You might also want to pull the speedo cable out of the transmission as it might be making noise since it’s speed related.

That’s a cool set up for testing the car - I may have one, but it doesn’t have instructions.  Probably gets covered in the FSM?  If it has instructions can you scan them?

Rabin

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does FSM stand for factory service manual?
It does not have any instructions sadly. All the information I used is on http://peugeot505.info/files/manuals/tt-sd-nsd_15-5.pd.

10-15? I was told by grubbs just 2-3 or I risk flooding the torque tube with grease.

Another thing I forgot to mention is that under full throttle load the transmission sometimes has a split second hiccup going from 1st-2nd (its rare though).
 

OH! and the noise from the transmission is ONLY while under load. Its noise free while off throttle - thought maybe this could mean something... maybe

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Yes - FSM means that.

2-3 pumps for regular maintenance sure, but for a car that has been sitting that long I’d do more personally.  “Flooding” the torque tube isn’t really accurate, but if you’ve ever repacked bearings with a cone packer you’d see 10-15 pumps is enough to push fresh grease in.  Much rather have excess rather than not enough.

The noise you have might be from contact being made to the rear suspension.  There are silent block bushings that give out and can cause vibration and driveline noise to pass into the chassis.

Just spit balling possibilities, as I’ve never known a transmission to make that kind of noise, but maybe it is?

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I unplugged the connector for Variable steering under the battery, and it did make the steering lighter at speed, but did not fix my shaking wheel issue at low speeds. What else might I look at? The type of fluid maybe? Im using ATF synthetic Dexron IV, while before it had non synthetic. This problem did only occur after I replaced a power steering hose and fluid flushed.

I wouldn't think the rear suspension as the noise as it's easy to hear thats its coming from a bit behind the engine. 

I'll give the torque tube a few more squirts today if I have time.

 

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Shaking has to be wheel, tire, bushings, ball joints or tie rods.

You could try rotating tires, but also check all the bushings and ball joints - make sure to use a lever to apply proper pressure when looking for play.

Rabin

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Ok

Im about ready to unbolt the automatic transmission from the N9TEA motor, where is a good spot to place the floor jack under the transmission while I unbolt it or is there some other good method to hold/balance it?

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A board spreading the load to the transmission pan edges will work fine.

I’ve strapped the trans to the jack end, and I’ve also tied it to a 2x4 across the opening of the transmission tunnel inside car.  Either of those work well depending on circumstances.

Rabin

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Well that will cause a major power loss... Wastegate is set to around 6.5 PSI. I unplugged the overboost connector to check the base boost pressure, and its 5 psi lower than stock boost (11.5). When plugging in the overboost connector, the car goes up to around 8.5, with occasionally hitting 9.5. So overboost seems to be working, giving a 2-3 PSI increase in boost.

What is it like to adjust the wastegate actuator on this car ?

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  • 1 month later...

Been tackling the A/C in this car. Before charging this system I set out to replace ALL the o-rings. The most difficult ones are definitely the 4 behind the intake manifold in the firewall. I'v gotten 3 of the 4 so far - in the process I dropped 2 or 3 o-rings into the firewall 🤫. Progress was going well until the line on the condenser was so tight it stripped the threads just from loosening it! I Tried my parts cars but they all were no good so now I am looking for a new condenser. And I'd like a new receiver drier. So much stuff taken apart for this I hope I can remember where everything goes to put it back together.

You can see in one of the pictures the threads on the condenser are so messed up.

I plan to use a hydrocarbon drop-in for the R12. Other have said it works well in their cars.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/284459532580?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=MgDrh9RoSqe&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=0ZtTUFQCSSm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

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  • 3 weeks later...

Everything is put back together and car is running well.

If someone has replaced a receiver drier and experienced this let me know - the Receiver drier I bought has the schrader valve facing the wheel well meaning I can't properly charge the system. The original drier faced away from the wheel well, and I tried searching for a proper fitting drier but found nothing. Any ideas or tips? Thanks in advance.

I also threw on a straight pipe exhaust piece I had laying around in place of the muffler, and its nice that the car still does not make much noise. Honestly I would prefer if it was a bit louder. (With no muffler this car sounds like a diesel!)

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Turbos muffle the exhaust noise quite a bit, and the stock mufflers had a tendency to have broken baffles inside which rattled.

You can’t really get it louder than a straight pipe, but a good resonator and a muffler can deepen and smoothen out the 4 cylinder sound so it doesn’t sound like a small diesel  tractor!

 

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  • 4 months later...

I have been enjoying this car for a while now, but tonight I got a check engine light! It looks like code 3.2 (3 blinks and then 2 more blinks shortly after). Time for a new mystery to solve... anyone know what this code means or what I should be checking? Car drove fine while the light was on.

p.s   two of the few things I have yet to do is check the TPS (which I want to do badly, but dont know the procedure) and re-torque the knock sensor.

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Alright I checked the TPS, and with the closed throttle I should have been at 2.1 Volts, but I read 1.8. At WOT I should have been at 12.7 Volts, but read only 8.2. Seems like the TPS is working, just a bit out of adjustment. Any idea what effect this little bit off adjustment of the TPS would do? (Im guessing not much)

And i'm looking for the Knock sensor torque figure as well, if someone could kindly provide that :)

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It makes a massive difference - But can’t tell you why.  :)  After adjusting mine so that it was perfectly in spec the car ran the best I’ve ever experienced a 505 turbo.  It can be tricky as it will change as you tighten it so I’d keep doing it while anticipating the change until you nailed it.

Torque spec should be 20Nm +/- 5Nm

 

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Got the TPS where I want it. Knock sensor torqued to spec. The car feels pretty much the same. I guess its time to check the timing. This is not something i'v done before. I do have a timing light, but other than that I am pretty much clueless. How do I go about checking the timing?

Also happy new years everyone! :)

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Probably best to google it for step by step instruction or a you tube video.  Important bits is that #1 is closest to the flywheel, and timing should be done at 8 degrees.  This will make sense after you learn the basics.

Timing, idle rpm, valve clearances and TPC all need to be set for it to run its best.

Have you ever done a compression test on it?

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