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Blackie


Jayden M

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If you run the boost signal hose from compressor directly to wastegate you’ll bypass the ecu boost control.   But you need to test and verify the wastegate is working with a bicycle air pump or something that can make a controlled 10psi signal.  You also need to make sure it holds that pressure.

@SRDT - I’ll try to find the details on the Turbo S “overboost” feature.  It was in the sales literature of the time as I recall it, but haven’t found any references yet.

Rabin

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23 hours ago, Jayden M said:

And I know you'v said 2.5 Bar of fuel pressure at idle, but what about under load - should it just increase the pressure as boost goes up?

I thought it was supposed to be 3 bar at idle, and the FPR is boost references which means fuel pressure goes up with boost.  You should be able to add pressure to the FPR and see pressure increase with each psi of boost.  Stock is just 1:1 ratio so 1 psi boost should add 1 psi fuel pressure.

Rabin

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  • 3 weeks later...

This is not good!

Spent all night and the morning getting the car towed back to the house...

While cruising around town the waterpump/alternator belt went, and ultimately caused the engine to overheat. It also blew a radiator hose. It was running hot for 5-10 seconds, I can only hope the head is ok.

On the good side I did get the rebuilt brake caliper from Rob Courtier put on to fix the handbrake sticking issue.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Good news! The Engine is just fine. No bubbles in the coolant, and no smoke.

After replacing the belt & radiator hose, it is up and running just as well as before. I also fixed the needle on the water pump pulley so the clutch fan will engage now. At first I thought another leak had sprung, but it was just coolant all over the radiator from nights before that was steaming off.

However a problem I seem to only have during warmer days is that once the car warms up the engine will randomly cut out for a split second. It will catch itself, but is just annoying. It does this every 1-2 minutes after its warmed up. It only does this while idling.

Mostly I am just happy to know that I do not have to take apart the engine :)

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  • 1 month later...

The car has been for the most part running fine for the past month and a half. It feels weird not having to work on it.

Now originally this car was parked due to a leaking rear end, and a little whining drivetrain noise and it has a bit of trouble going into 2nd gear. I have replaced the differential already, which was thought to be the source of said noise, however the noise remains. After jacking the car up and spinning the wheels in the air its clear the noise is from the transmission.

So I will be taking the transmission from my spare white 505 turbo, and its torque tube and swapping it with blackies. This is by far the biggest and toughest part I'v had to replace, and I'm feeling a bit scared. I will probably be needing your guys help along the way.

 

I also am going to set up a painting booth with a art friend of mine to repaint it.

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I was crawling around under my spare 505 turbo preparing to drop the automatic transmission when I realized perhaps it would be better to swap a manual into Blackie. Does anyone here have experience with manual swapping 505's? Are holes for like the clutch already there?

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The only thing you would need to do is to install a pilot bearing into the crank end for the manual transmission to work, everything else is a bolt on affair, but a fair bit of work.  Ideally you need a parts car for all the parts like pedal assemblies and such, but it does all bolt on.  All holes are there.

Rabin

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1 hour ago, Bean said:

everything else is a bolt on affair

Yeah my dad was telling me the holes for the clutch should be on the automatics, but I'v just gone and checked and I did not find the hole for the clutch pedal to the slave cylinder. Maybe 89 took them out?

Yeah the silver 505 turbo is a manual, thats where I plan to source manual parts for.

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The hole is in the panel mounts tbe booster, and that panel should  bolts to the firewall as well.   So if it’s not there on Blackie it should still unbolt off the other car.

Can you take a picture?  My ‘86 auto had the studs to mount the clutch slave and everything.

Rabin

 

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Images are kind of crap sorry

Edit: to use as a reference point in the image, there is a like 10mm nut next to the big brake spring in all 3 images

This is the manual car, you can see the clutch rod and spring under the much larger brake spring and thing.IMG_6819.thumb.JPG.75751047a1233c8505910f899af624c4.JPG

This next one is blackie. You can see the same big brake spring, but no hole under it where the clutch goes. There is oddly a little rust spot there though

IMG_6820.thumb.JPG.a0e6811f36c1c76ed44db5af01ff62b9.JPG

And this last one is the spare automatic car also a 1989:

IMG_6822.thumb.JPG.7f4c6b878b9a3edddc453eb332666ec9.JPG

 

Also just out of curiousity what is the light under the turn signal stalk for?

IMG_6824.thumb.JPG.e0938c34d50dbe0a7d79be4dec23f6f7.JPG

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Look on the engine side under the brake booster/abs system to make sure on blackie as it looks like there might be something visible on the other side.  
If not - the part that mounts to the firewall should unbolt and transfer over - you can see the body colour of the firewall and the panel separately here:

3C3BA04F-3B4C-409D-AA17-1DDD266EBEE4.jpeg

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4 minutes ago, Jayden M said:

Ah yeah it is. But what is that slot in the trim normally used for? Also I may just drill holes for the clutch if I have to

Not sure what “Yeah it is” is answering?  The spot the light is on?  That’s just a blank cover / filler on my car as well.

Rabin

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The red light is for the aftermarket alarm system. I was just wondering what that trim slot piece was ever used for, as none of my cars have something there (except for this alarm light)

 

10 hours ago, Bean said:

you can see the body colour of the firewall and the panel separately here

Ok interesting I will be sure it has everything today

 

Another issue I have is, blackie has that Torsen differential while the manual car is a 1988, so I'd have to trade up the torsen differential to become manual.

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The column cover looks like another stalk should have gone there, but even the euro headlight levelling system was on the dash.  Maybe @SRDT knows?

Torsen diff works great with the manual - you really just need the trans and the torque tube (different length) to make the swap, but make sure to check the splines on the shaft that go into the transmission.

The pilot bearing in the crank to support the manual transmission input shaft will be the only thing Blackie needs aside from the donor car parts.  

Btw - just the clutch and brake pedals should just need to be swapped - I’ve done the whole pedal box assembly before but they were identical except for the pedals that just have the pivot bolt holding them in.

Rabin

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19 hours ago, Bean said:

Look on the engine side under the brake booster/abs system to make sure on blackie as it looks like there might be something visible on the other side

After looking on the engine bay side I found a small diamond shape plastic cover that goes where the master cylinder would be. Behind the plastic cover there arent indents for holes to bolt on a master cylinder, just some solid metal. I may have to drill holes.

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Ok thanks for the help bean, I'm pretty set on doing the manual swap. I first need to transport my parts car (which happens to be the silver danielson car) to my new home I just moved in, which has a much nicer garage. Currently the parts car is just in the mud. I will try to document my progress better for this project.

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  • 1 month later...

I have been doing a lot of work lately with this car. I decided not to manual swap it, because I have decided to buy another 89 turbo :), to modify. (no it does not run)

Using a Pinout box I found for ALL the computers in these cars I have been able to test loads of stuff easily. Very nice testing tool, I was able to find that the front right wheel sensor was making my ABS light come on

I also put brand new michelins all around. With the ABS now working I can say that the stopping power of this car is very good.

I have started tuning the engine with all the manual specifications.

I'v tested sensor ohm readings on AFM, temp sens, thermotime switch, fuel injectors/resistors, altitude sensor, etc. I found the injector circuit resistance out of spec - was supposed to be around 6 ohms, but I get a reading of around 240 ohms. I checked the injector resistance pack, and all are good, not sure what else is in that circuit to cause this. Other than that everything else was within spec

Tested fuel pressure and flow. The pressure regulator was baaadly broken. It was leaking pressure horribly out into the intake manifold. This was also the cause of my hard cold start issue, it was flooding the engine as the pressure seeped into the intake overnight. Im using a spare FPR, which is mostly within spec apart from it having a small leak into the return line.

I was unable to find specs for the TPS, but I will be checking the timing later this week.

Currently the only thing wrong with the car is the shaking wheel at low speeds, will unplug the variable assist connector as you all have suggested to see if that does something.

Another thing I worry about is the transmission - at 40 mph+ it has a bit of a whining/whistling noise. Its always had this for me, but its the noise dad remembers from so long ago. I have a spare automatic transmission I plan to replace it with during the summer.

Would love to get the A/C working but don't know where I can get R12.

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Can you take a pic of the pin out tester?  I’ve never used one and it sounds awesome.

Abs brakes on these are fantastic - even by modern standards as I used to rallycross my car and even in loose surface driving they were just so good even when it was super slippery. 

Whining / whistling you might want to make sure that torque tube Center bearing is well lubed.  Might also want to remove the console and trans cover, then use a mechanics stethoscope to see if it’s trans or torque tube.  Sound can transmit strangely when connected rigidly like the 505, so isolating the sound is time well spent.

AC - Might make sense to convert to 134A which would mean new oring seals, expansion valve, and new oil.  If system has been open I’d clean everything out real well to, but it’s a pretty easy system.  Get them to pull a vacuum before charging and if it holds tight you should be good to go.

Rabin
 


 

 

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