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Jayden M

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It’s an automatic, and the even when you load the turbo with the brakes it very rarely spins on take off with the Torsen diff - especially with good tires.

With the manual I can leave the line on boost which results in first and 2nd gear wheelspin.  
 

Rabin

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It’s an automatic, and the even when you load the turbo with the brakes it very rarely spins on take off with the Torsen diff - especially with good tires.

With the manual I can leave the line on boost which results in first and 2nd gear wheelspin.  
 

Rabin

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Yeah, that will do it, old school torque converter slips a lot. It's been sometime since i've driven one of those, and i hate them. The newer TS80cs in my 607 is completely different, also i've been in diesels last year and a half and the torque is very addictive. Few days ago i got to test drive a 350z it has the same horsepower as my 607 and is much lighter but it feels slower because it has half the torque.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Been driving the car a lot in my neighborhood. Its surprisingly slow until it reaches boost and rpm.... then it is actually pretty fast. Love making turbo noises ?️

Headlights have rusted reflectors so I put in a new set of headlights (eu spec I think)
Cleaned the car
2 New Tires
New Coolant overflow bottle cap (coolin system is now pressurizing :D)
New power steering fluid! (Power steering working properly now)
Braking is a lot stronger, but still very lacking in stopping power.

Moving onto a new problem, it always makes a rattling/clinging sound near the muffler, but only when in Drive or Reverse at idle or cruising. When getting rpm up it goes away. Exhaust hangers maybe?

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Exhaust system is either making contact somewhere, or the baffles in the muffler are loose and rattling around.  Should be able to bang the muffler to see if it rattles, or shake the system to see if it’s hitting anything.

Brakes: Make sure both sides of all four disks are starting to get shiny.  If one side of the rotor is still still rusty the calipers need to be cleaned up so they slide.  If both sides are still rusty the caliper is likely seized.

Great progress!

Rabin

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Uh Oh. Last night me and dad pushed this car pretty hard, and after we built up lots of boost and speed we heard a loud bang coming from I think engine bay. We didnt seem to loose any power, and we continued to drive around building up a little boost, everything seemed fine. This is the first time we put max boost on it. We think it could be wastegate actuator.

Any ideas?

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If you didn’t lose any power then all the intake hoses stayed on.  Could have been something on the road coming up and hitting car, or something falling off car...  Doubtful it could have been a backfire, but maybe depending on how it was driven.

Have you set the idle, timing, and the tps sensor adjustment?

Rabin

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Check the exhaust for holes, if it's a backfire you feel it slow down the car , and with all the fuel related issues you've had, the exhaust is surly full of unburned fuel, if it was the diaphragm on the waste gate you'll hit boost cut.

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10 hours ago, Jayden M said:

No we havnt touched the idle, timing, or tps sensor.

You're tempting fate by pushing the car before verifying the car is tuned properly...  It usually doesn't end well when a turbo car gets pushed and it's not 100%.  

These engines are very sensitive to timing, and the TPS adjustment procedure - Just ask Joe!

Rabin

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It's easy to check both, they don't need to be adjusted unless they're out - Which is the whole reason for checking to make sure they're still good.  Penny wise and pound foolish as they say.

Your call though.

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  • 2 weeks later...

still testing the PSI under boost. 14 is the highest i see, but the car may be overboosting. anyway I was wondering if someone could tell whats put together wrongly for the radio pics. ?

i didnt disconnect anything this is how i found it.

IMG_20210516_094220.jpg

IMG_20210516_094157.jpg

IMG_20210516_094143.jpg

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  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

You’re likely over boosting due to a bad wastegate - the cut is likely the overboost working.

The clank is worrisome - the pistons don’t handle overboost / lean detonation and will crack ring lands if it continues.

Rabin

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That’s weird - low fuel is usually an off switch when the pump can’t pick it up.  Fuel tank is baffled pretty good around the pump pick up, so you might want to double check the wastegate works at least.  Small air pump / tire pump on the wastegate line is all you need to make sure it’s opening proper.

If all is good then yeah - gotta love the easy fixes!

Rabin

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  • 2 weeks later...

At last the work has paid off. The car is now registered and insured! Drove it today on the open roads. Constantly teasing my friend with turbo noises. This might be 30 years older than his car, but this sure is faster.

Did have a few issues though. The power steering leak is pretty bad - it had squirted fluid over everything near the pump. Other than that it was mostly fine. Some concerns my dad had was there was a ton of noise. Sounds like its the brake rotors still, and I did just now put new Mintex pads on it, so hopefully that will go away.

Also I do not think the intank pump is working, and I have noticed that with just a external pump, when the fuel gets low the pump will 'pulse' out pressured blasts of fuel instead of constantly, which would explain the problems I was having at higher boost/rpm

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Congrats Jayden!  That was a huge accomplishment to get a car that was parked that long back on the road.

The 89’ doesn’t usually have an intank pump…. Pretty sure they got rid of it after 1988 - but don’t quote me on that.  

You may might want to put a fuel pressure tester on the line and make sure the fuel pressure regulator is working properly.

Rabin

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Weirdly our 88 turbo does not have a intank pump but this car does.  I think they brought it back after 88 for some reason.

Also I found the cause of the power steering leak: Just a crack in hose. Seems easy to replace. I'll just use whities hose.

 

IMG_6669.JPG

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