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Blackie


Jayden M

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10 hours ago, Jayden M said:

For the rev counter - its not completely broken it acts like for every 100 RPM the engine is the needle moves 10, so it said it was idling at 100 RPM ish lol. and Redlines at around 700 ha

This sounds familiar but it's been long time since i've done it, i know petrol engine and diesels have the same crank sensor but are wired different i've had theĀ opposite when i've changed the engine in my 605 idling it will peg the rev counter like is running 10 000 rpm, i've rewired it and it was reading fine, members with better knowledge on the 505 may know better.

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That car needs to run, to be driven, i've gone thru the same with my little niva, that car sat for years more i drove it better the engine got but at one point during the pandemicĀ restriction i found myself alone on a straight road and pushed it to see how fast it can go, and after that run the oilĀ pressure went from nearly zero to oil light on at idle. So take it easy when you start to drive it and do more recent oil changes.

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Do you have access to a welder / person that can weld?Ā  Getting a big 3/4" nut welded to what's left of the nuts might be the cleanest way to take them off.

Alternately I've taken impact sockets that are just a bit too small and pounded them onto wheel locks and they came right off.

Drilling them out would be a PITA, so I'd only do that as a last resort.

Rabin

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Sadly no access to a welder, I tried using the impact gun with a smaller size, but it just rounded off the nuts to a point where its completely round now. Its so weird how the underside of the car is minimal rust, but yet these lug nuts are heavily heavily HEAVILY rusted. And jon always put greese on it to keep from rusting too... maybe thats what caused it after so long.

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Maybe call some mobile welders as it might be dirt cheap - they just need to make sure to weld to whatā€™s left of the lug nut and not the stud!

Welding adds heat as well of course and the nuts usually come off very easily.

Rabin

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Mobile welding service, i've learn to weld like that. Long story short, when i was just a kid 14-15 years, my father had called a mobile welder to come and weld couple of bars to fix the fence but the welder never would come he keep giving excuses, at the time i was fully mechanically captable and had couple of zastavas and fiat's to fix and drive around my neighborhood. So i got tired of waiting and took my fiat 600 to town, hardware store to hardware store and bought me my first arc welder. The cheapest one less than 100$, box of welding rods, got back home fix the fence and when my father got home gave me a good yelling, not for driving without licence but for spending my own money.

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It's not advisable, but I was in a pinch once and was able to weld a broken alternator bracket on a truck using a coupleĀ  truck batteries, booster cables, and arc welding rod.Ā  There was an OLD gas powered welder but we couldn't get it to start, so I made do.Ā  Wasn't pretty, but it was strong and never broke again!

Rabin

Ā 

Ā 

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Is there somewhere I can get a new/good used Torsen Differential for this car? When drilling the mounts/mount bolts out of whities differential it caused a small crack in the outside edge, and I just want to make everything perfect. Though I can probably get it welded together by somebody, I just wanted to know I have backup, thanks

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Got blackies wheel and differential out today!! Im getting closeĀ ?
Ā  Ā Car continues to run well
Still doing a little drilling and searching for someone/somewhere to weld the crack on the differential mounting pieces. Garage is slam packed with 2Ā fuel tanks, 4 rotor assemblies, 4 wheels, 4 half shafts, 2 differentials, 4 fuel pumps, accumulator, timing belt covers, pulleys, and not to mention all the old parts that have been in there for 15+ years.... mom not happy.

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Congratulation, hard work pays off a the end. Show as the crack you are talking about, i've used thick big washers to get around that problem, if there is enough space around it for a washer to clamp it, you do not need to do anything about it. About the messy garage, they all are like that in my now i have about 12 engines, tons of tires and lots more, but every time i take something out of a box the box and the old parts go immediately in garbage, that way it does not accumulate, i also use couple of hoursĀ everyday when i'm in the garage to arrange parts make new shelfs and clean up

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its hard to see it cuz my camera sucks, but you can see a crack on the bottom part of that mounting ring. The crack does go all the way through it. (Just below where the ovalĀ hole for the mounting bolt expands from me drilling.)

IMG_20210301_120556.jpg

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A big washer will be fine, if the crack was on either or both ends of the slotted hole - THEN you would want it welded.Ā  Where it's cracked now isn't really structural and if you have a good sized grade 8 washer that covers a good chunk of the mount you're fine.

The torque tube mount takes the brunt of the driveline forces, those mounts just hold the diff up really.

Rabin

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Bigger washer on the allen headed bolt that goes through that mount hole.Ā  Assuming there's space as that pic shows the topside and the bolt comes through the bottom.

Rabin

Ā 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Whities differential (Torsen Diff for 505 turbo) has been welded on the crack. AND is bolted onto the black car. I have no manuals... and was hoping somebody could post the torque specs of a few things:
The 4 Torque Tube Nuts
The 2 Diff Mounting Tab Bolts
The 2 Brake Caliper Bolts (per wheel)
The 4 BearingAssembly Bolts holding it to the rear trailing arm thing.

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Ah yes. Another long day on blackie. Huge Progress

Half shafts are back in place, and I have disassembled the rotors, and then BEATED out the old lug bolts, and harshly beated in new ones. Cleaned the ball bearing & will assemble tommorrow after hopefully acquiring torque specs from Joe Grubbs, and Rob Courtier who have helped me a ton. After rotor assembly is on, its just new tires before test driving!!!

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Got so close to being able to drive it, but just as im putting it all back together, one of the threaded holes for theĀ bolts to the rear trailing arm decided to become stripped Making the bolt go in crooked. Any ideas? Could be Game Over.

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You can usually fix threads with the right thread tap... Ā Worse case you could either drill it out and tap the next biggest size, or heli-coil it back to the proper thread size.

Are you talking about one of the bolts holding the hubs and to the trailing arm?

Rabin

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The hub is a good 2 - 3ā€ wide, so the bolt is well alignedĀ before it even touches the hole and should not be going sideways. Ā Youā€™ll need to remove the hub and tap the hole ideally from the backside so it cleans up the threads when it comes through.

Post pictures to be sure because it mostly makes no sense to me how it could go in crooked.

Rabin

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