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Blackie


Jayden M

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This is the car that supposedly was in some videos on this site? Street Races, Donuts, and whatnot? Not sure about that was only 2 years old, but its what i'v heard. The interior on the car is superb even though there is a small water leak... any common places for rain water leaking into 505's? - 89 505 Turbo Automatic

A year ago I went out to see if this car had compression, and 2 of the cylinders did not. Today I checked again, and all of a sudden all 4 cylinders are compressing, so its possible this car can get on the road soon.

So, today I hooked up my test battery, did an oil change, and put in some gasoline in the tank. Surprisingly the car started right up! Unfortunately this car dies after just a few seconds, very similarly to my burgundy 505 STI XN6 project. My thoughts is related to lack of fuel, either 1 or more injectors are not firing, but replacing the fuel filter & fuel pump couldnt hurt. The pump sounds a little odd, but who knows maybe its fine. Any thoughts? it feels so close to running

Its also got golden peugeot emblems and golden 'peugeot' '505 turbo' words, which makes it look goood if it wasn't rusted

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I'm not that familiar with those cars but to find the fuel pressure, just read the numbers from the fuel pressure regulator and google them it will show, or you can google the fuel injectors. If i have to guess, it should be around 3 Bar. I'm interested to learn more about those 2.2 turbo engines, from what i've heard they are something special.

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Thanks guys,

It looks like this is my 3rd vehicle that has faulty fuel injectors... haha guess a car sitting for so long does that. I think the car started from the cold start injector, cause it would die after just 2 seconds. To get the injectors out it looks like the intake manifold has to come out? - Please tell me I am wrong haha

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  • 2 weeks later...

I thought this was neat:

Reason this car was parked was due to a leaked differential (got lifted up by it during an inspection), and so I have a spare to replace it with, but I cant take off the wheel because the uh the lug nuts are the most rusty thing I thought i'd share some photos:   ( All 48 lug nuts on my 3 505 Turbo's are like this haha)

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Haha you'd be surprised how rust free the rest of the car is, literally its just the lug nuts. A bit of surface rust under the car, and a few nuts & bolts rusty, but nothing serious.

The strength of my drill bits are not as strong as those lug nuts haha, the drill just breaks and sizes down after a few minutes. Took 3 drill bits to make that tiny hole you see in the 3rd picture. Im 3 hours away from beach, its almost as if its rusted into a flower shape.

The few nuts I had gotten off, I had to use 14mm for some and as high as 20 mm for others... thats rediculous lol. (19mm is original size)

Jon had done a lot of rust proofing at some point, but he forgot them lug nuts, because he was planning to take the wheels off.

I was thinking something like this socket piece, its kinda cool:

DrillBit.jpeg

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Harbor freight tools drill bits won't drill it, you need better quality, also you need to drill couple sizes, start 4mm or 1/4" drill bit first then 10mm or 3/8" second and 14mm or 1/2". You don't need to drill it full 2" you need to go around 1" deep. Also expect the rim to be stuck to the hub, good kick from the inside usually gets them unstuck or use a rubber hammer. And use a corded drill, not a battery powered one it usually has more power and there weight make them more stable, less broken drill bits. I hope this makes sense.

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This car has to be the most reliable vehicle ever... 

I put some carb cleaner in the fuel rail today, and then started the car. Surprisingly it started, and idled just fine, no smoke, it didnt drink coolant, and oil looks good. Besides the battery, and an oil change NOTHING has been replaced!! How about that after 15 years of sitting it still works just fine.....

All I need is to get the wheels off lol and replace the differential, and then its ready for the road.

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  • 1 month later...

Great Progress!

Finally got the fuel injector cleaned/fixed, and the engine is running on all 4 cylinders now, and pretty smoothly too. Every now n then it has a misfire. I let the car warm up for 30 minutes, and no leaks were spotted. A few problems: Cooling system isnt pressurizing (Due to radiator cap I think), and the small switch next to throttle has a wire ripped off, which Jon says is probably causing the crackling and popping in the exhaust (sounds awesome though in my opinion). Turbo does appear to be working still! Havn't tested alot of the electrics, except headlights which dont work. Still a puddle in the backseat, not sure where its leaking from, any ideas? Apart from the exhaust crackling and popping Jon thinks it running just about how it used to.
      Next step is drilling the lug nuts off, and replacing the differential for a road test!

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  • 3 weeks later...

You need a jack with wheels and a smooth surface under it. As a young person i've improved with a skateboard, bottle jack and pieces of wood, remove one axle completely then you can pull the diff backwards and to the side to pull out the other axle from the diff. As for holding the diff i know it's secured with the torque tube and its 4 bolts and two mounts at the top. Be careful, the diff is pretty heavy.

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Great progress Jayden!

Try cycling back and forth with liberal spraying of penetrating oil.  Loosen as much as you can, spray, then tighten.  Spray the top of the bolt as best you can, and then loosen again.  Repeat.

I had a diff bolt so bad I had to drill the head off it to get it out, so hopefully yours works looks.  

The wire on the switch is VERY important to how these engines run.  There's a TPS adjustment tech procedure in the tech section that is just absolutely amazing when you get it set right.  If you need a switch let me know.

Rabin

 

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